I am planning to install tiles and klinkers in the laundry room in the basement.
But in some places on the floor and wall, the concrete has likely come loose due to moisture.
Is there a risk that the tiles might come loose? Should I patch this up first, or can I fill it with adhesive?
Best regards, Anders
But in some places on the floor and wall, the concrete has likely come loose due to moisture.
Is there a risk that the tiles might come loose? Should I patch this up first, or can I fill it with adhesive?
Best regards, Anders
I will also tile and lay ceramic tiles in the basement.
I'm thinking of draining first, as well as cutting up the floor and insulating - pouring a new floor.
I assume that one should check the drainage and grind the surface with a concrete grinder before tiling to get a good grip,
maybe you can apply a slurry before tiling to get a solid surface?
I'm thinking of draining first, as well as cutting up the floor and insulating - pouring a new floor.
I assume that one should check the drainage and grind the surface with a concrete grinder before tiling to get a good grip,
maybe you can apply a slurry before tiling to get a solid surface?
I bought the house 2.5 years ago and the "spots" were there then too, had an inspector before I bought the house. He noted quite high moisture levels in the floor, but none up the walls. He said that high moisture levels in the floor were very common in such houses (built in 1954), the only thing I should consider he said was not to furnish the basement with wood, like paneling.
Best regards, Anders
Best regards, Anders
I also have spots where paint and some plaster have come loose, but the tricky part is that in the old bathroom in the basement, the tiles are still in place without any tendency to come off! Wonder how they did it in the old days?
I have some kind of concrete wall-air gap-brick-plaster, innermost towards the basement space.
The house was built in 1924, the basement bath may have been done later...
I have some kind of concrete wall-air gap-brick-plaster, innermost towards the basement space.
The house was built in 1924, the basement bath may have been done later...
abel48
It looked exactly the same with us before re-draining, it's not very successful to install tiles without checking where the moisture is coming from. If you're still going to do it, remove the paint, no waterproofing layer, and use wide joints.
Robert
It looked exactly the same with us before re-draining, it's not very successful to install tiles without checking where the moisture is coming from. If you're still going to do it, remove the paint, no waterproofing layer, and use wide joints.
Robert
I also have tiles in the basement that have been there since '58. They laid tiles directly in mortar/plaster I suppose. Seems to hold up. In other places where it's just coated with KC plaster/paint, it crumbles. Especially in the joints for the concrete block masonry (or basement wall if you prefer). As mentioned, you take the coating/plaster down with the cleaning mill.EgenHärd said:
Waterproofing? Ardex 8+9 should work locally around floor drain/shower.
why does the old paint have to be removed? Won't it adhere otherwise?
And in the pictures, it's the inner walls where it has peeled off, not the outer wall. But could it still have something to do with the drainage? The drainage was replaced in the early 1980s, according to the previous homeowner.
Is it possible to measure moisture with a simple moisture meter?
Best regards, Anders
And in the pictures, it's the inner walls where it has peeled off, not the outer wall. But could it still have something to do with the drainage? The drainage was replaced in the early 1980s, according to the previous homeowner.
Is it possible to measure moisture with a simple moisture meter?
Best regards, Anders
I have a very high moisture level in the basement during the summer, which should come from the floor or the walls. I've measured with a regular moisture/temperature meter. There should be a way to measure the walls, right?! I know you can drill holes in the floor a little bit into the slab and measure with instruments. I saw them do that at work - they milled - and epoxy glued (several times) an entire factory and leveled the surface and laid a carpet! Between the gluing, the surface was measured with some instrument - probably to check that it was sealed... 70s construction with moisture problems.abel48 said:
[edit](Note! Epoxy gluing probably doesn't fit at all in our basement houses!)[/edit]
Now in the winter, I'm down to about 40-50%. Last summer, it was 75-80%
and I was forced to use fans to ventilate the moisture.The fans are still there - only used to circulate the air - at night - I have now also bought a dehumidifier that runs at night.
Has anyone tried implementing it in regular use?:
http://www.cchoganas.se/uploaded/document/2002/6/13/mont_v1.pdf
found the suggestion in another thread
http://www.cchoganas.se/uploaded/document/2002/6/13/mont_v1.pdf
found the suggestion in another thread
The reason for your moisture spots is quite obvious. In a house built during that time, it was constructed in the following way. Gravel is compacted and possibly watered to remove sand, then concrete. So, there is no capillary-breaking layer. Therefore, it doesn't help to drain around the walls to remove moisture in the middle of the slab. You just have to accept the situation and follow your inspector's advice: no wood. Laying tiles is an excellent way to beautify the floor surface. It can just be a bit cold. And remember, no moisture barrier except under a possible shower. The ground moisture must be able to rise and be ventilated away. If you want underfloor heating, it's possible. You just have to remember not to turn off the underfloor heating in the summer; it must be on year-round. This is because with underfloor heating, you increase the vapor pressure in the ground, and if you turn off the supplied heat, the vapor rises upward, resulting in moisture and discolorations. Problems with the adhesive material may also occur. It is advisable to mill the surface for better adhesion.
Good luck// Tartan
Good luck// Tartan
The explanation for your problems has been given by tartan.
I think you should bring in an expert to look at it before you start, since you already have issues.
When I look at the pictures, I think it looks like you already have mold on the wall, probably due to dust.
The question is how the colors will fare being trapped behind tiles. If I remember correctly, oil paints and concrete don't mix particularly well, and it's not about density we're talking about.
My opinion is that all old material on the surface should be removed before you do anything. Then you should talk to the manufacturers of adhesive and grout to find a suitable type.
There are also agents that can be injected to stop capillary absorption.
Whether to use a moisture barrier or not, the floor can be treated to make it impermeable. If it's negative to do so when it's completely clean, I don't want to express an opinion. The professionals in moisture mechanics have experience with different solutions, so I think you should bear the cost for advice now.
I think you should bring in an expert to look at it before you start, since you already have issues.
When I look at the pictures, I think it looks like you already have mold on the wall, probably due to dust.
The question is how the colors will fare being trapped behind tiles. If I remember correctly, oil paints and concrete don't mix particularly well, and it's not about density we're talking about.
My opinion is that all old material on the surface should be removed before you do anything. Then you should talk to the manufacturers of adhesive and grout to find a suitable type.
There are also agents that can be injected to stop capillary absorption.
Whether to use a moisture barrier or not, the floor can be treated to make it impermeable. If it's negative to do so when it's completely clean, I don't want to express an opinion. The professionals in moisture mechanics have experience with different solutions, so I think you should bear the cost for advice now.