We have bought a 2-story house with a basement from '46, and in one of the rooms in the basement, there are studded wooden walls (exterior walls). I drilled holes in the panel to see how it looked underneath. There is first plastic against the concrete wall, then 45mm wooden studs and wood paneling. Between the plastic and paneling, it is insulated with foam plastic. My question is whether there really should be a moisture barrier on the inside of an exterior wall? I'm concerned about the moisture... /Björn.
I have a similar construction in my rec room. It doesn't feel completely optimal, especially considering the plastic mats on the floor that I tore out and found mold on the underside of. It only takes a little dust for it to mold, and when you have put down a "moisture barrier" in the form of plastic mat or plastic film, the growth conditions are likely to become just right...
In my world, moisture must be allowed to move in a basement wall. No matter how much you drain, it will never be completely dry. Personally, I have built a new lecawall inside all the concrete outer walls with a 20 mm air gap in between. The Leca is 200 mm and is supposed to insulate equivalent to 50 mm of insulation. The air gap and the room are ventilated carefully. It's quite a big job to do this, but the air in the basement is like a spring breeze. The alternative is to remove everything down to the concrete, plaster, and paint with silicate paint and insulate outside the basement wall with pordrän if you're planning to drain anyway.
In our basement, the previous owner had clad the inside with Platon, then regular wood and insulation. Of course, with plaster too..... It had just started to smell a little when I tore out the stuff.... I plastered with gypsum mortar directly on the concrete wall. Eventually, I plan to dig up at the basement outer wall and insulate from the outside with isodrän.....
Thanks for the posts.
Does anyone know how bad this solution is?
Do you have to tear everything out and start over, for example, with steel studs and without plastic against the outer wall?
...or is it enough to, for example, drill ventilation through the panel, cellular plastic, and "moisture barrier"?
Unfortunately, insulation from the outside is not an option as the drainage is newly done.
/Björn.
Does anyone know how bad this solution is?
Do you have to tear everything out and start over, for example, with steel studs and without plastic against the outer wall?
...or is it enough to, for example, drill ventilation through the panel, cellular plastic, and "moisture barrier"?
Unfortunately, insulation from the outside is not an option as the drainage is newly done.
/Björn.
My friend had the same construction as you and planned to wallpaper the walls when he moved in. Without his permission, I rudely took a sledgehammer and made a hole in the wall. When the shock subsided, he put his nose in the hole - a scent of gorgonzola and the Wasa ship! He tore everything out, plastered, and painted the lecawall with silicate paint. In his case, with 20cm leca, it’s supposed to correspond to about 5cm of insulation, but if concrete is supposed to do the same, it requires 300cm. Sorry, but I would never dare to insulate a basement wall internally with anything other than an air gap and leca. Better to take the hit and raise the heat. Some believe in internal platon, but I'm not one of them. Hope someone else has a better solution for you...
fef: one can clad with steel studs and insulate with mineral wool, then cover with the new fiberglass gypsum boards, which is the new standard in wet rooms.
The milkshake: Might work. Is there a risk of moisture buildup in the insulation? The mineral wool does breathe to some extent, doesn’t it? Air gap between concrete studs? It's a pity that the fiberglass gypsum is so expensive. I might be wrong, but a bricklayer once told me that you shouldn't use C mortar in a basement as it's lime-based and susceptible to mold... isn’t there lime in gypsum?
Have now drilled some holes at regular intervals & heights (d:45mm) to see how it looks.
Condensation seems to have formed on the plastic under a window.
There are two exterior walls in the room with a window on each wall. Under the windows, there are older model water-based radiators that do not generate too much heat.
Do you think the condensation is something that can be ventilated away?
Condensation seems to have formed on the plastic under a window.
There are two exterior walls in the room with a window on each wall. Under the windows, there are older model water-based radiators that do not generate too much heat.
Do you think the condensation is something that can be ventilated away?
fef:... The new fiberglass gypsum... (Which I still can't remember the name of) is approved for wet rooms, precisely because of its non-paper surface..... The gypsum itself holds up well..... The fiberglass lies as a surface layer instead of paper....
Condensation can be both ventilated and heated away, yes.... But not permanently..... You have to get to the root of the problem in my opinion....
You've received some suggestions.....
Otherwise, the alternative is a dehumidifier.. but how fun is it to have one of those buzzing in the basement...!!!??
Condensation can be both ventilated and heated away, yes.... But not permanently..... You have to get to the root of the problem in my opinion....
You've received some suggestions.....
Otherwise, the alternative is a dehumidifier.. but how fun is it to have one of those buzzing in the basement...!!!??
Mineral products do not mold. Organic ones do.fef said:
If lime did mold, it would be pretty cool to see a big fuzzy lime quarry
That bricklayer was certainly off track.
Gypsum is a common name for the mineral calcium sulfate.
Lime is produced from limestone (rock), which mostly contains the mineral calcite.
ktm250: Ok, I'm with you. Do you know any other reason why the mason recommended b-mortar instead of c-mortar with a higher lime content in the basement? The guy has had a plastering company for 30 years, but I buy that about the lime quarry. Back to the topic, do you have any more tips for beedj?
fef: He has probably assessed the base material, which is what always determines the choice of mortar strength. However, the statement itself sounds strange. Maybe he couldn't explain it and simply spun a yarn to make it easier for himself. Choosing materials in different situations is difficult, requires knowledge and intuition, and sometimes the choice is hard to justify to a layperson. It's like it's ingrained. When it's hard to explain, some people just can't be bothered and simply throw something out there, hoping that the person they've spun the yarn for will be satisfied and not ask more questions. If the layperson asks more questions, it suddenly becomes urgent... lots of work, coffee breaks, lunch, Christmas presents... you name it! Anyway, absolutely no shadow over him. He's not a trickster. He probably just can't be bothered to explain, again, things that are ingrained after years of mixing mortar
Off topic:
Milkshaken: My answer was not directed at you, I was responding to another question earlier in the thread. The moderator has removed the post. I find it strange that they didn't remove my post as well, as I quoted the person in question.
Milkshaken: My answer was not directed at you, I was responding to another question earlier in the thread. The moderator has removed the post. I find it strange that they didn't remove my post as well, as I quoted the person in question.
