This is how I have drawn the studs so far, all with 45x70, with 70mm spacing, so a total wall thickness of 210 mm:
I'm thinking the open shelves will be between the studs, haven't decided the exact design yet but maybe like this:
Now to my question:
Is it suitable to use MDF internally as lining in the shelves and also as a surface on the wall? Is 12 mm MDF sufficient? Does it need more frequent stud spacing than cc600?
The room has parquet flooring from before, planning to build the new interior wall on top of it. What is appropriate to use for sill seal/sill insulation?
Hey! You can use MDF for the shelves and also on the wall. But you could also use plasterboard on the wall. It looked like from your picture that the shelves will protrude a bit from the wall, then it's quite easy to just go against the shelves with the plasterboard. Regarding the parquet, the best thing would be to cut it away where you're going to place the wall. The parquet should be laid floating, so it's not optimal to place a wall on it. But it's easy to fix with a circular saw and a multitool.
Hello
Thank you for your response.
No, the shelves are not meant to stick out, but I think it's possible to get nice cuts on MDF and that the edge becomes more durable than if I had used plaster.
How do you know if the parquet is floating? The room is currently L-shaped with about 10 m long in each direction. It is the one leg of the L that I will partition off. What is the risk if I don't cut away the part of the parquet where the wall should stand? I assume there is currently some material between the concrete slab and the floor, can I reuse it as sill insulation?
Okay, it looked like it. But if they're not going to do it, then the only option is probably to go with MDF as you said . Yes, that's a good question. But are you sure it's a concrete slab underneath? If that's the case, then I can guarantee it's a floating floor. Yes, there must be foam/step soundproofing under there, and you can use that as floor paper if you want. A floating floor moves with the seasons and humidity, so to speak. If you put up a wall on top of the floor and bolt it down, the floor can't move freely, and it's locked in place. It might not affect the rest of the floor, but if you're unlucky, when the floor dries and shrinks, it may start to gap against another wall, or it may start to come apart at one of the seams in the parquet. But it could also work just fine to place it directly on the floor; it's a bit of a gamble.
Here's how I've drawn the studs so far, all in 45x70, with 70mm spacing, so a total wall thickness of 210 mm:
Those are very shallow shelves with 21 cm minus the thickness of a plasterboard. Have you considered if what you want to place there fits without sticking out? If it sticks out, sooner or later someone will sweep it with them when passing by.
MMarcus1984 said:
The room previously had parquet flooring, I intend to build the new interior wall on top of it. What's suitable to use for sill paper/sill insulation?
It's common to have double-sided tape under the stud to hold it against the floor. If it's not enough that the wall is attached to the ceiling and the old walls, as well as its own weight against the floor.
They are very shallow shelves with 21 cm minus the thickness of a plasterboard. Have you considered whether what you want to place there will fit without sticking out? If it sticks out, sooner or later you will sweep it off when passing by.
Well, it's 21 cm plus 12 mm for the thickness of the outer MDF board. Yes, it won't be very deep, but it's sufficient; I've measured against another existing bookshelf.
BirgitS said:
It's quite common to have double-sided tape under the beam to hold it against the floor. If it's not enough that the wall is attached to the ceiling and the old walls, as well as with its own weight against the floor.
That was a good tip. There will also be two rows of beams against the floor, so quite a large surface area for the tape to adhere to.
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. Yes, that's a good question. But are you sure it's a concrete slab underneath? If that's the case, then I can guarantee it's a floating floor. Yes, there must be foam/step soundproofing under there, and you can use that as floor paper if you want. A floating floor moves with the seasons and humidity, so to speak. If you put up a wall on top of the floor and bolt it down, the floor can't move freely, and it's locked in place. It might not affect the rest of the floor, but if you're unlucky, when the floor dries and shrinks, it may start to gap against another wall, or it may start to come apart at one of the seams in the parquet. But it could also work just fine to place it directly on the floor; it's a bit of a gamble.
BirgitS said: