How wall panel meets door casing

[MagnusVBK]

Hello,

I'm going to install wall paneling. I have very little experience. I apologize if this question is strange.

What is the best way to handle where the wall paneling meets the door trim?

Do you place the paneling flush against the door trim?

Or do you install the trim on top of the paneling?

 

[VLJ]

Usually, the molding (and baseboard) is placed on top.
It is possible to lay them flush (at least if the molding is thicker than the panel) but it is difficult to achieve a neat joint.

Edit: assumed it was regarding interior paneling.

 

[Manganbangan]

Agree with the previous speaker. Trim over the panel. No matter how nice the panel is, it will look ugly when it is cut and adjusted to the baseboard. Often you can carefully pry off the door trim and nail it back.

 

[MagnusVBK]

Usually, the trim (and baseboard) is on top.
It's possible to place them flush (at least if the trim is thicker than the panel) but it's difficult to achieve a neat joint.

Edit: assumed it was interior paneling

Correct. It's interior paneling.

 

[MagnusVBK]

Thanks for the response.

I also thought it was best to put it on top.

I can also consider buying new trims. That will be good.

When you put trims on top, then the cut edge of the panel will be visible, right? Do you then paint that edge together with the trim?

(Because there aren't trims with an underlip, kind of like for chair rails, are there?
Or could you have a variant of "salningslist" placed under the trim that the panel meets?)

 

[Plupp 618974]

Thanks for the response.

I also thought it was best to put it on top.

I can also consider buying new foder. That will work well.

When you place the foder on top, won't the sawn edge of the panel be visible?
Do you then paint that edge together with the foder?

(There aren't foder with an under notch, like those for chair rails, right?
Or could one use a variant of "salningslist" set under the foder that the panel meets?)

Not sure if I understand exactly what you mean, but typically you place a small smyglist in the frame so that the frame and wall end up at the same level. Then apply the foder.

 

[Tomture61]

Thanks for the answer.

I also thought it was best to place on top.

I can also consider buying new moldings. That will be good.

When you place moldings on top, the sawn edge of the panel will be visible, right?
Then you paint that edge along with the molding?

(There aren’t moldings with a notch underneath, similar to wainscoting, are there?
Or could one use a variant of "salningslist" placed under the molding where the panel meets?)

If the door frame is not flush with the surrounding wall, the door frame must be extended.
In my own house, I've done this with a door frame that didn't match the thickness of the interior wall.
You might need to visit a carpentry shop to plane the material to the correct dimensions.

 

[Plupp 618974]

Heel linings do exist! But the selection is quite sparse if you're looking for something a bit nicer.

 

[MagnusVBK]

Don't know if I understand exactly what you mean, but typically you put a small trim strip in the frame so that the frame and wall end up at the same level. After that, molding.

I will install wall paneling that builds out 11 mm.
So you would want a trim strip that is exactly 11 mm.
So far with a quick check, we found 13 mm as the closest one.

 

[MagnusVBK]

There actually are klackfoder too! But the selection is quite limited if you want something a little nicer.

We don't have a requirement for "frills".
I'll look for klackfoder.

 

[Plupp 618974]

I am going to install wall panels that extend by 11 mm.
So, one would want a salningslist that is exactly 11 mm.
So far, in a quick check, we found a 13 mm one which was the closest.

If you have access to a table saw or an old-fashioned planer, you can saw or plane down a larger smyg. I've had to do this at home because nothing was according to standard.

 

[tergo]

I will be installing wall panels that are 11 mm thick.
So ideally, you'd want a trimming strip that is exactly 11 mm.
So far with a quick check, we've found 13 mm as the closest.

you can split a 12mm door casing

 

[MagnusVBK]

you can split a 12mm dörrfoder

Good tip!

 

[MagnusVBK]

If you have access to a table saw or an old-fashioned plane, you can saw or plane down a larger bevel. Had to do this at home because nothing was according to standard.

Good tip!

 

[MagnusVBK]

Found heel pads with 10 mm and 12 mm heels.

I think we will test it.