Our entrance is on the garden level and is currently insulated from the inside with wooden studs and chipboard. The rest of the interior walls were built the same way. Since there was a lot of odor in the interior walls, we have torn this down and in the rest of the basement we have painted with silicate paint, achieving a much better climate. We also want to do this in the entrance. The question is what we do with the garden-level wall?
The picture was taken before all the pizzeria wall was removed; today everything is gone.
We are thinking of plastering the walls and painting with silicate paint, but what do we do with the exterior wall?
It should be insulated in some way.
How do we make it look nice so it blends with the plastered wall?
The picture was taken before all the pizzeria wall was removed; today everything is gone.
We are thinking of plastering the walls and painting with silicate paint, but what do we do with the exterior wall?
It should be insulated in some way.
How do we make it look nice so it blends with the plastered wall?
What I have been told is to ideally insulate with draining boards on the outside, such as isodrän, pordrän, and then apply plasterboard on the inside.
If it's not possible to insulate on the outside, I was advised to glue polystyrene on the inside against the exterior walls without any air gap and then place metal studs on it and screw plasterboards with ventilation (gaps) at the floor and ceiling...
I can't promise that this is the best way, but it's what our builder recommended we do with our daylight basement...
Best regards,
Anders
If it's not possible to insulate on the outside, I was advised to glue polystyrene on the inside against the exterior walls without any air gap and then place metal studs on it and screw plasterboards with ventilation (gaps) at the floor and ceiling...
I can't promise that this is the best way, but it's what our builder recommended we do with our daylight basement...
Best regards,
Anders
but isodrän boards are thick, then they need to be covered with some type of board to look good, they will stick out beyond the wooden facade above (the wall is plastered on the outside)... Platon has a mat for moisture (Multi) that can be mounted on the inside wall, but it doesn't insulate, does it? Then there's also the issue of getting the walls to match... meaning if you have both framed walls and [silikat] painted walls in the same room. Difficult...
But if you add insulation to plastered facades, you have styrofoam or another form of insulation and then plaster again on the outside, can you do the same indoors? In that case, the aesthetics are solved... What products are used for additional insulation on houses with a plastered facade?
The same with the listen that is placed on top of the boards. Lower it below ground level (however, it should be plastered in).
Then I recommend that you lay single or similar closest to the house. Maybe 2dm wide and 2dm deep. Then you get good drainage of surface water around the house down to your fine isodränskivor/platon/cellplast.
Then I recommend that you lay single or similar closest to the house. Maybe 2dm wide and 2dm deep. Then you get good drainage of surface water around the house down to your fine isodränskivor/platon/cellplast.
Moisture moves towards warmth, or rather towards the heat exchange, so if you insulate on the inside, the moisture will migrate inward in the concrete wall; if you insulate on the outside, the moisture will migrate outward... Better no insulation at all than on the inside! So now we are doing this first after consideration and then we'll see when it becomes drainage boards on the outside...
Best regards,
Anders
Best regards,
Anders
It has nothing to do with whether one is on a hill or not. Rainwater should NEVER be in the drainage. If you can't get the slope right, you must nicely plan the garden so that it's possible to slope the ground at least a few meters out from the house. Everyone does, of course, as they wish, but I follow the manufacturer's instructions and live in the belief that they know better than the average Svensson.
Well... Unfortunately, not everyone has the opportunity to "beautifully replan" the yard.
Also, my gravel has nothing to do with my rainwater management. For that, I have gutters, downpipes, and ground pipes.
Gravel around the house works for me since I avoid water against the foundation, root problems, and it looks generally tidy.
To TS: Good luck with the drainage!
Also, my gravel has nothing to do with my rainwater management. For that, I have gutters, downpipes, and ground pipes.
Gravel around the house works for me since I avoid water against the foundation, root problems, and it looks generally tidy.
To TS: Good luck with the drainage!
Hello
the house is therefore a split-level house. The part that is below ground is insulated with isodrän (laid out so hopefully done in the best way possible).
What I'm asking about is the remaining side, the free-standing front that is plastered on the outside and currently insulated internally with wooden studs, the wall with the door in the picture. So it's not possible to conceal tiles on the outside below ground.
We mainly have problems with ground moisture, which is why we want plastered silicate paint-painted walls indoors. Therefore, I was thinking of doing something like additional insulation of a plastered house but on the inside.
the house is therefore a split-level house. The part that is below ground is insulated with isodrän (laid out so hopefully done in the best way possible).
What I'm asking about is the remaining side, the free-standing front that is plastered on the outside and currently insulated internally with wooden studs, the wall with the door in the picture. So it's not possible to conceal tiles on the outside below ground.
We mainly have problems with ground moisture, which is why we want plastered silicate paint-painted walls indoors. Therefore, I was thinking of doing something like additional insulation of a plastered house but on the inside.
So the moisture coming from the air outside is not the problem (just opening the front door will probably let in more than what manages to seep through the concrete). It is the ground moisture rising in the wall that needs to be able to breathe out in a neat way. Before we tore down, we're talking about 20-30 cm closest to the floor that was affected in the interior walls, and we're thinking of letting it breathe out by painting with the silicate paint.