Hi, I can imagine the question sounds a bit strange.
I am going to build my own sliding doors for the wardrobe. Our idea is to have a quite unique solution with white painted horizontal paneling.
I was thinking of solving this by nailing or gluing type råspont 17*120 onto 10 mm chipboard.
My question is, does that work or are there better ways??
/ Marta
I am going to build my own sliding doors for the wardrobe. Our idea is to have a quite unique solution with white painted horizontal paneling.
I was thinking of solving this by nailing or gluing type råspont 17*120 onto 10 mm chipboard.
My question is, does that work or are there better ways??
/ Marta
Gluing sounds wise, I think. If the chipboard is glossy ("factory-painted"), it should be roughed up, otherwise, the glue will have difficulty adhering. Use some kind of adhesive. Also, screw in some screws from the chipboard side into the raw wood. (short screws so the screw tip doesn't go through). Now the chipboard is quite thin, but there are special clips for fastening tongue-and-groove wood, which you would then screw into the chipboard.
I asked the question precisely with the thought that the råspont could warp. The alternative of applying glue strands at the top and bottom edges of the råspont and screwing from behind seems so far to be the best option.
I'm not really sure what else I can do to prevent them from warping. Maybe make sure the timber is properly dry before I assemble the doors.
And yes, absolutely, the doors will be heavy! I've calculated that they will weigh about 43 kg each.
I've ordered Habos k-50 fittings, which are supposed to withstand 50kg, so that should work.
I'm not really sure what else I can do to prevent them from warping. Maybe make sure the timber is properly dry before I assemble the doors.
And yes, absolutely, the doors will be heavy! I've calculated that they will weigh about 43 kg each.
I've ordered Habos k-50 fittings, which are supposed to withstand 50kg, so that should work.
.
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Use tongue and groove instead of raw tongue and choose between screws or glue. I made the mistake of using both myself. The tongue and the chipboard have different moisture sensitivity and expand differently. This results in the doors warping.
Johan,
I have no experience with a similar construction and don't understand the risk of gluing AND screwing here???
I realize that raw wood and chipboard behave differently depending on humidity, but if I attach raw wood to chipboard, then I'm doing just that, whether I screw or glue. Neither allows more movement than the other, right? And if so, can you combine them, even if it seems like both belt and suspenders?
Perhaps I'm overlooking something, so please correct me - I definitely want to learn more.
Best regards,
Ronnie
I have no experience with a similar construction and don't understand the risk of gluing AND screwing here???
I realize that raw wood and chipboard behave differently depending on humidity, but if I attach raw wood to chipboard, then I'm doing just that, whether I screw or glue. Neither allows more movement than the other, right? And if so, can you combine them, even if it seems like both belt and suspenders?
Perhaps I'm overlooking something, so please correct me - I definitely want to learn more.
Best regards,
Ronnie
No pysslarn it wasn't stupid, of course I want to know if my construction is doomed to fail.
If there are other ways to construct the doors, I would be grateful for tips.
For example, would it be better with plyfa on the back? I was thinking if it's more like råspont...
If there are other ways to construct the doors, I would be grateful for tips.
For example, would it be better with plyfa on the back? I was thinking if it's more like råspont...
Feels a bit worrisome ;-)
I would rather increase the dimension of the råspont because it's nice with properly wide planks.
I think the door leaf's depth is also a limiting factor here, I would guess the maximum depth I can have is about 30mm.
How do I then build a frame with a rabbet that also needs to be stable?
If it's going to work as a sliding door/door at all, the frame has to be self-supporting, and the råspont just needs to lie loosely in there.
It seems like the dimension of the frame makes it so that we don't quite get the look we want on the doors.
The original idea was to just edge the doors with the thinnest pine molding one could find.
I would rather increase the dimension of the råspont because it's nice with properly wide planks.
I think the door leaf's depth is also a limiting factor here, I would guess the maximum depth I can have is about 30mm.
How do I then build a frame with a rabbet that also needs to be stable?
If it's going to work as a sliding door/door at all, the frame has to be self-supporting, and the råspont just needs to lie loosely in there.
It seems like the dimension of the frame makes it so that we don't quite get the look we want on the doors.
The original idea was to just edge the doors with the thinnest pine molding one could find.
Bet on a plywood board. It is indeed more expensive, but considering the money you save compared to buying pre-made doors, it might fit in your budget? The plywood is glued in different directions and is probably stronger than particleboard; whether it can withstand the panel's movements, I can't promise.
You could use chipboard as a base and then glue a 6mm ply on the board. Afterward, groove the board with a hand saw set at an appropriate depth.
Another option is to split strips of 6mm ply, break the edges, and then glue them onto the chipboard. Such a construction will be relatively stable in form. If you want to make it more luxurious, you can replace the chipboard with MDF.
Another option is to split strips of 6mm ply, break the edges, and then glue them onto the chipboard. Such a construction will be relatively stable in form. If you want to make it more luxurious, you can replace the chipboard with MDF.
Maybe not optimal solutions but both should work.
Alt 1. Build the doors only with råspont, in double layers with staggered joints half a board's width (i.e., the top board in the outer layer has full width and the top board in the rear layer has half width). Glue in the tongue and groove as well as glue and screw/nail the two layers together. This way you get a construction where the movements are quite uniform thanks to the absence of mixed materials.
The downside of this solution is that you need "carpenter dry" wood, which is hard to acquire when it comes to råspont. If it's not dry enough, the whole setup will inevitably warp. You also can't bring the råspont inside to dry it first, as it warps in that process. It might be easiest to get hold of dry wood in a thicker dimension, cut it to size, and then mill the tongue and groove yourself.
Alt 2. Assemble a layer with råspont with glue in the tongue and attach this layer to a plywood board with screws (with washers under the heads) from behind in slotted/elongated holes. The screw should only be tightened enough to hold the råspont against the plywood and allow movement. You will probably need to screw into every board. With the right length of the slots, the screws can move with the boards' expansion.
Best regards,
Ronnie
Alt 1. Build the doors only with råspont, in double layers with staggered joints half a board's width (i.e., the top board in the outer layer has full width and the top board in the rear layer has half width). Glue in the tongue and groove as well as glue and screw/nail the two layers together. This way you get a construction where the movements are quite uniform thanks to the absence of mixed materials.
The downside of this solution is that you need "carpenter dry" wood, which is hard to acquire when it comes to råspont. If it's not dry enough, the whole setup will inevitably warp. You also can't bring the råspont inside to dry it first, as it warps in that process. It might be easiest to get hold of dry wood in a thicker dimension, cut it to size, and then mill the tongue and groove yourself.
Alt 2. Assemble a layer with råspont with glue in the tongue and attach this layer to a plywood board with screws (with washers under the heads) from behind in slotted/elongated holes. The screw should only be tightened enough to hold the råspont against the plywood and allow movement. You will probably need to screw into every board. With the right length of the slots, the screws can move with the boards' expansion.
Best regards,
Ronnie