I have a root cellar that looks like this. Unfortunately, ants had built a nest in the exterior door frame, so I had to remove it. Now I'm considering what material to use for the new door and frame to prevent new ants from destroying it. Previously, I had old utility poles around the door, but unfortunately, the ants seemed to like living there too. Do you think pressure-treated wood would work better as a frame?
I'm also considering building a taller frame to get more soil around the exterior door and thus a more stable climate inside. Does that seem reasonable?
Below are some pictures of how it looks now.
Please let me know if this thread is in the wrong forum. It's hard to choose the right one.
Not much response unfortunately but I have at least made a substantial raised frame around and mounted the old door and sheet metal. However, the door needs to be replaced soon as it is quite soft. Then I can also take the opportunity to insulate the door a bit. 45 mm insulation must be much better than nothing.
It would be practical to clad it with corrugated sheet metal since it's guaranteed to rain quite a bit on it. However, it becomes a bit problematic with the ventilation that is currently in the door.
What do you think about instead making a hole in the lower part of the frame for a 100 mm drainage pipe that is then drawn up from the ground on the side of the door? So down, straight to the side, and then straight up through the ground, possibly with 2 90-degree bends above ground as rain protection. It should be possible to install a vent like this one where it comes out of the frame to control the ventilation.
I would probably have opted to build a new door in pressure-treated wood. Vertical decking boards with crossbars and cover strips over the gaps between the boards.
As for ventilation, the simplest possible. Primarily gaps around the door, and/or a regular square louvered metal vent in the door if the slope is sufficient.
Thanks for the response @Oldboy. I have already started on a door with 12 mm plywood on both sides of 45 mm insulation. I then plan to cover the door with corrugated sheet metal that I already had. I think the metal will be durable and I can make it larger than the door so that it covers around the door as well.
As for ventilation, it becomes tricky with a hole in a metal door. My simple idea now is to drill holes in the lower part of the frame for 110 mm drainage pipes, which are then angled up and end up under the protrusion on the door. Then I can also put the hatch that exists on the old door for the drainage pipe hole, so that the ventilation can be adjusted. Not sure why this is needed, but it seems that the setting should be changed during the year (which I haven't done in the 10 years we've had it).
Picture before plywood on the other side of the door.
Maybe it's the camera angle playing a trick on me, but how well can you actually reach the handle to open the door? And isn't it heavy to open (and close)? Would a handle lower down on the door work better?
If you want to add a bit of luxury, you can install a suitable gas spring in length to make opening easier (intended for trunk lids). I bought one for the well cover at Biltema, it will surely be good when it's in place but has been lying in the shed for two years......
Maybe it's the camera angle playing tricks on me, but how easy is it really to reach the handle to open the door? And doesn't it become heavy to open (and close)? Would a handle lower down on the door work better?
Funny you mention that because it is a little difficult to use the handle actually. It's in the middle of the door and that felt logical. The door isn't heavy so no problem there, but you kind of have to lean over the door to open it. I'll see if I move the handle. It's also possible to open the door by grabbing the lower left corner of the plate, so the handle isn't really necessary but useful when closing the door to avoid pinching your fingers.
If you want to indulge a little, you can install a suitable gas spring in length to make opening easier (intended for tailgates).
I bought one for the well cover at Biltema, it will probably be good when it gets installed but it's been sitting in the shed for two years......
The door is not heavy, it might get heavier if it absorbs moisture. I don't think the gas spring will fare well with the humidity.
Possibly, I might install some sort of chain to prevent the door from opening too much but it seems to work fine as the door rests on the ground.
You don't think the one I installed in the frame is enough?
It might be enough, but it's impossible to judge. Typically something you'll solve through "trial & error."
Even the opening of the door will get resolved over time. Perhaps place a footstone to put your foot on a little up on the hinge side, for a slightly less uncomfortable opening position?
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