Hello!
We have a summer house on the west coast where we plan to build a guest cabin of 30 square meters, with full standard, to use as a complement when the whole family is present at the same time.
The site where we plan to build is completely exposed to the sea in a southwest location. The gable closest to the sea will be about 4-5 meters from the water. The lowest level of the foundation will be about 2.5 meters above normal water level. During severe storms, there is a high risk that the seawater will rise high and may splash and occasionally hit the foundation and the gable.
In other words, it's a bad location to build on (but the view will be phenomenal), but it's also the only spot on the property where we can build without completely blocking the sea view for our neighbors, who are also family.
I initially thought that the only thing that might withstand the current location was a brick stone house, but after starting a thread in "stenhus," I got indications that it might actually be possible to build a house with a wooden frame. You can find the thread here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/litet-fritidshus-30m2-i-mycket-utsatt-laege.189583/
To the question - How do you build a house that is insensitive to the forces of nature in this location? Water will come both as rain and as splash from the ground/foundation. Of course, we have a limited budget, and it can't get out of hand.
I am certainly no construction engineer, so I absorb information wherever I find it. I need concrete tips on materials, construction, etc. I have tried searching, but it's hard to search when you don't know what to look for!
Other conditions to take into account: Materials can be transported by car and ferry to the ferry dock, which is about 2 km from the house. It's not possible to drive by car all the way; the road ends about 400m from the house - the rest of the way is a narrow path. It's possible to use an ATV with a trailer or a small tractor for the last stretch. The maximum weight on the "road network" for vehicles is 3.5 tons, and a bogie is prohibited. A concrete truck can be driven ashore at the ferry, and any concrete can be transported in containers to the property with smaller vehicles. The house should somewhat match the main building, which has vertical cladding with battens.
Many thanks to those contributing with your expertise.
We have a summer house on the west coast where we plan to build a guest cabin of 30 square meters, with full standard, to use as a complement when the whole family is present at the same time.
The site where we plan to build is completely exposed to the sea in a southwest location. The gable closest to the sea will be about 4-5 meters from the water. The lowest level of the foundation will be about 2.5 meters above normal water level. During severe storms, there is a high risk that the seawater will rise high and may splash and occasionally hit the foundation and the gable.
In other words, it's a bad location to build on (but the view will be phenomenal), but it's also the only spot on the property where we can build without completely blocking the sea view for our neighbors, who are also family.
I initially thought that the only thing that might withstand the current location was a brick stone house, but after starting a thread in "stenhus," I got indications that it might actually be possible to build a house with a wooden frame. You can find the thread here: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/litet-fritidshus-30m2-i-mycket-utsatt-laege.189583/
To the question - How do you build a house that is insensitive to the forces of nature in this location? Water will come both as rain and as splash from the ground/foundation. Of course, we have a limited budget, and it can't get out of hand.
I am certainly no construction engineer, so I absorb information wherever I find it. I need concrete tips on materials, construction, etc. I have tried searching, but it's hard to search when you don't know what to look for!
Other conditions to take into account: Materials can be transported by car and ferry to the ferry dock, which is about 2 km from the house. It's not possible to drive by car all the way; the road ends about 400m from the house - the rest of the way is a narrow path. It's possible to use an ATV with a trailer or a small tractor for the last stretch. The maximum weight on the "road network" for vehicles is 3.5 tons, and a bogie is prohibited. A concrete truck can be driven ashore at the ferry, and any concrete can be transported in containers to the property with smaller vehicles. The house should somewhat match the main building, which has vertical cladding with battens.
Many thanks to those contributing with your expertise.
The important thing is to avoid moisture in the framework; a standard construction with facade, air gap, and wind barrier can usually handle most things, including driving rain. But now it sounds like you're describing an even worse situation.
To improve, you can install minerite boards on the sides facing the sea instead of wind barriers to prevent water entering behind the facade from getting into the framework. Also, make sure that windows in exposed locations are properly installed to avoid water intrusion this way.
There isn't much to do with the facade; for example, choose 28 mm timber with a lot of heartwood to increase the chances of it holding up better (I imagine).
Regarding the foundation, I assume it's possible to prevent water from entering the crawl space, because it's not that water rises to the foundation and remains standing, is it?
For the sill and possibly floor joists, you can use treated wood. I believe that today's treatment liquids don't have the odor problems that treated wood from the 70s/80s had, but this is pure speculation—check with the supplier.
However, I have no experience with new construction in exposed locations, only tinkering with older houses, and these have fared well when wood and frame could dry after getting wet. Usually, it's the sill and under windows where there have been issues.
One idea might be to talk to homeowners with houses in the same location; there are quite a few of them here on the west coast.
Regarding transport, many of the ferries to the islands have cranes, and they might be able to offload the material directly at the property.
To improve, you can install minerite boards on the sides facing the sea instead of wind barriers to prevent water entering behind the facade from getting into the framework. Also, make sure that windows in exposed locations are properly installed to avoid water intrusion this way.
There isn't much to do with the facade; for example, choose 28 mm timber with a lot of heartwood to increase the chances of it holding up better (I imagine).
Regarding the foundation, I assume it's possible to prevent water from entering the crawl space, because it's not that water rises to the foundation and remains standing, is it?
For the sill and possibly floor joists, you can use treated wood. I believe that today's treatment liquids don't have the odor problems that treated wood from the 70s/80s had, but this is pure speculation—check with the supplier.
However, I have no experience with new construction in exposed locations, only tinkering with older houses, and these have fared well when wood and frame could dry after getting wet. Usually, it's the sill and under windows where there have been issues.
One idea might be to talk to homeowners with houses in the same location; there are quite a few of them here on the west coast.
Regarding transport, many of the ferries to the islands have cranes, and they might be able to offload the material directly at the property.
Congratulations on the location!
A bit off-topic, but how on earth did you get building permits and shoreline protection exemption to build so close to the water?
Regarding the construction, I would probably want to steer back towards stone houses. Consider the maintenance; there will be a lot of scraping/painting in such a location.
Similarly, I would choose windows with aluminum frames. Maybe not the most charming, but window renovations are far worse.
A standing seam metal roof is a given on the west coast.
A bit off-topic, but how on earth did you get building permits and shoreline protection exemption to build so close to the water?
Regarding the construction, I would probably want to steer back towards stone houses. Consider the maintenance; there will be a lot of scraping/painting in such a location.
Similarly, I would choose windows with aluminum frames. Maybe not the most charming, but window renovations are far worse.
A standing seam metal roof is a given on the west coast.
A
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
· Västra Götaland
· 208 posts
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
- Västra Götaland
- 208 posts
Here you see a "house" built in the most extreme of places
http://www.hallokapell.com/
If I had built where you say, I would have chosen Minerit with foam insulation for the bottom meter + the floor.
If you choose cover strips, you'll likely have to replace them often if the location is as extreme as you indicate.
http://www.hallokapell.com/
If I had built where you say, I would have chosen Minerit with foam insulation for the bottom meter + the floor.
If you choose cover strips, you'll likely have to replace them often if the location is as extreme as you indicate.
How fun that you are getting involved and helping with ideas!
Definitely going with aluminum-clad windows. Additionally, we'll have fixed windows facing the sea.
I need to look into Minerit boards further. Maybe it's possible to combine Minerit with wind barrier fabric to get double protection?
Roof tiles have actually worked very well on houses nearby that have the gable facing the sea (and generous fascia boards). At most, one or two tiles blown off per year, which is considered very acceptable. The metal roofs, on the other hand, have had more problems - once the wind gets underneath, whole sections fly away...
Regarding building permits, we have building rights for the entire plot, not a spot in sight, and the shoreline protection line is down by the water, meaning there shouldn't be any issues getting a building permit according to the local plan.
I'm attaching a poor enlargement from an aerial photo so you can see the location better. We're planning to build where you can see an old foundation (to the right in the picture).
Definitely going with aluminum-clad windows. Additionally, we'll have fixed windows facing the sea.
I need to look into Minerit boards further. Maybe it's possible to combine Minerit with wind barrier fabric to get double protection?
Roof tiles have actually worked very well on houses nearby that have the gable facing the sea (and generous fascia boards). At most, one or two tiles blown off per year, which is considered very acceptable. The metal roofs, on the other hand, have had more problems - once the wind gets underneath, whole sections fly away...
Regarding building permits, we have building rights for the entire plot, not a spot in sight, and the shoreline protection line is down by the water, meaning there shouldn't be any issues getting a building permit according to the local plan.
I'm attaching a poor enlargement from an aerial photo so you can see the location better. We're planning to build where you can see an old foundation (to the right in the picture).
A
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
· Västra Götaland
· 208 posts
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
- Västra Götaland
- 208 posts
Hmm looks like Bohusmalmön..Peter_GBG said:How great that you're getting involved and helping with ideas!
Aluminum-clad windows are a must. Additionally, we will have fixed windows facing the sea.
I need to look into Minerit boards more. Is it possible to combine the Minerit with windproof fabric for double protection?
Roof tiles have actually worked very well on the nearby houses that have the gable facing the sea (with generously sized bargeboards). At most, one or two blown-off tiles per year, which is considered very acceptable. Metal roofs, however, have had more issues - once the wind gets underneath, entire sections take off..
Regarding the building permit, we have building rights over the entire property, not a speck in sight, and the shoreline protection line runs down by the water, meaning it shouldn't be a problem to get a building permit according to the zoning plan.
Attaching a poor enlargement from an aerial photo so you can see the location more. We plan to build where you see an old foundation (to the right in the image)
Metal roofs don't work on the west coast, you need aluminum, but maybe that's what you meant. If they are screwed on correctly, they will stay put, I promise you.
We often fully screw down concrete tiles when we install roofs, that's how much it blows here.
Call www.cembrit.se and ask them if you want more information.
Of course, you have wind paper behind it, we always install that.
Are southeast winds and waves the worst for the house in question? No major islands outside that offer protection?
It is in the southern archipelago of Gothenburg.
Called Cembrit directly and spoke with a very helpful guy. He recommended using their windstopper board (http://www.cembrit.se/Produkt_visning-5895.aspx?ProductID=PROD53) at 9 mm on both the walls and under the joist space. On top of this, you nail a very well-ventilated facade.
The question is just how to properly seal the joint foundation/exterior wall/joist space. I'm considering some form of deflecting sheet metal that can be bent in a clever way. Made a quick sketch in paint, intended metal in red according to the image below (have spaced out the construction).
Called Cembrit directly and spoke with a very helpful guy. He recommended using their windstopper board (http://www.cembrit.se/Produkt_visning-5895.aspx?ProductID=PROD53) at 9 mm on both the walls and under the joist space. On top of this, you nail a very well-ventilated facade.
The question is just how to properly seal the joint foundation/exterior wall/joist space. I'm considering some form of deflecting sheet metal that can be bent in a clever way. Made a quick sketch in paint, intended metal in red according to the image below (have spaced out the construction).
If you're going to have a wood façade there, I would recommend an extremely breathable paint, like falu paint, or just iron vitriol...the wood will get wet no matter what you do, so the important thing is that it has the opportunity to dry quickly between times, then it will last for many years.
Regarding the angle plate, it's probably a good idea if it goes inside the fiber cement instead of outside...otherwise, it will probably lead water into the foundation instead of keeping it away
Regarding the angle plate, it's probably a good idea if it goes inside the fiber cement instead of outside...otherwise, it will probably lead water into the foundation instead of keeping it away
Renovator
· Västragötaland
· 875 posts
Now personally, I don't like plastic facades, but I saw this at the fair in GBG, and it was actually really nice. It was hardly noticeable that it was composite plastic and not wood, but it was expensive...
http://www.bohusfasad.se/
http://www.bohusfasad.se/
A
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
· Västra Götaland
· 208 posts
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
- Västra Götaland
- 208 posts
So you're thinking of putting wood on top of the Minerit?
In that case, I wouldn't have chosen Minerit but settled for Planja's Aluminum Sheet 20-75, which looks like wood paneling from 5-6 meters away, and I would have laid Minerit on the floor, maybe with aluminum sheets folded if there's a risk of the sea splashing up.
A concrete wall a meter before the wall would have been the best.
http://www.plannja.com/templates/Page2C____1452.aspx
I have a boathouse with it myself and am very satisfied.
In that case, I wouldn't have chosen Minerit but settled for Planja's Aluminum Sheet 20-75, which looks like wood paneling from 5-6 meters away, and I would have laid Minerit on the floor, maybe with aluminum sheets folded if there's a risk of the sea splashing up.
A concrete wall a meter before the wall would have been the best.
http://www.plannja.com/templates/Page2C____1452.aspx
I have a boathouse with it myself and am very satisfied.
Have been considering metal facades of various kinds and it is undeniably convenient, both in assembly and durability.. Hmm, though its appearance is a downside (except for mattetvillings alternative).
A braking and shielding concrete wall is an excellent idea - why haven't I thought of it before!? It could also act as an anchor and support point for the combined pier/deck we plan to have in front of the house. Top points to Alfred
A braking and shielding concrete wall is an excellent idea - why haven't I thought of it before!? It could also act as an anchor and support point for the combined pier/deck we plan to have in front of the house. Top points to Alfred
A
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
· Västra Götaland
· 208 posts
Alfred Jonsson
Banned
- Västra Götaland
- 208 posts
I actually think the appearance of the new metal facades is okay, but tastes are like..Peter_GBG said:Have been considering metal facades of various kinds, and it is undeniably convenient, both for installation and durability.. Hmm, however, it does have the appearance against it (except for mattetvillings alternative)
A braking and shielding concrete wall is an excellent idea - why haven't I thought of it before!? It could also serve as an attachment and support point for the combined pier/patio deck we plan to have in front of the house. Top points to Alfred
If you are going to build a wall, you must drill down support rods into the rock behind to hold it up because when waves hit, it's an enormous force.
Last week, I was helping to repair a pier that the winter storms had completely destroyed, even though I thought it was quite sheltered..
A plus with the wall is that you can probably then have a regular wooden facade with wind paper behind.
I was thinking of writing a comment about pvc-cladding... I don't really like it either... but over the weekend, I had a chat with my neighbor, and when he mentioned that his cladding boards hadn't been repainted a single time since he bought the house 30 years ago, because it was plastic cladding... I was quite shocked actually... I never reflected on it being anything other than a regular wooden cladding. So it really made me think. Especially since my neighbor's cladding had apparently been on the house for a few years already when he bought it... and it still looks like new...