Help with outer wall construction

[Wallawhoa]

Hello! I was previously considering using 12+195+70, but now as I'm working on my construction drawings, the thermal bridges through the studs seem significant when placing the horizontal secondary beam.
Especially in the sill and wall plates.

So now I'm considering building 12+170+Horizontal 45+Vertical 45. You understand what I mean!

My questions are:
- Is it advantageous to place small blocks at the sill and wall plate when installing the horizontal layer? To add some insulation.
So small blocks instead of long studs at the sill and wall plate. I hope you understand what I mean. These would be covered in the vertical installation layer with a long stud.

- Isn't insulation covering the stud frame around windows and such quite mildly improving? Since most of the stud is already exposed at the casing, etc.?

- Or how should I do it? Install the horizontal layer last?

wall:
cladding tongue and groove panel
34x70 nailing stud + 15mm air battens

12mm wood fiber wind board
170mm frame
45mm horizontal
Vapor barrier
45mm vertical
OSB
Plasterboard

 

[Snickarkirre]

Hi! Can you use a 50mm facade board type west coast externally instead of two layers of studs on the inside? And if you're going to have OSB+plasterboard, you can raise the lowest stud on the horizontal layer and lower the top one by 45mm to get insulation at both the sill and the beam.

 

[Wallawhoa]

Hi! Can't you use a 50mm facade panel like Västkust externally instead of two layers of studs on the inside? And if you're using OSB+gypsum, you can raise the bottom stud on the horizontal layer and lower the top one by 45mm to get insulation at both the sill and the top plate.

Thanks for the response! Going with continuous wood fiber insulation and would like to stick with that even in the surface layer. I have considered using a 19 or 25mm wood fiberboard on the outermost layer.

I will also have some footboards, horizontal boards, and lock lath paneling. It felt better when it was a bit more homogenous. Plus, easier for potential future maintenance, etc.

What do you think of the reasoning?

If I raise or lower the horizontal layer, how do you then place the vertical layer?

Thanks

 

[nybyggarn3]

I installed a 25 mm wood fiberboard on the frame when I built my house. I bought the frame from masonit beams. 300 mm I-joists. Everything pre-cut and virtually completely without thermal bridging. The whole structure was insulated with cellulose that was blown in.

It was quite affordable then, and that was before the prices skyrocketed on wood.

 

[Wallawhoa]

I put a 25 mm fiberboard on the frame when I built my house. I bought the frame from masonite beams. 300 mm lightweight beam. Everything pre-cut and virtually without thermal bridges. The whole setup was insulated with cellulose blown in.

It was quite cost-effective then, and it was before the prices took off for wood.

Yes, 25 mm might be relevant. Did it feel like the nailer and more were properly secured? I've only felt 12 mm, and it doesn't feel particularly hard.

Interesting product, indeed! I looked at these before, and they are surely quite okay! However, I am a bit doubtful about durability and lifespan, probably completely unfounded.
What do you use as a sill/header? How do you make a bearing line?

May I ask what you paid per meter?

 

[anojak]

I have been on several construction sites where we've installed a hard 60 mm tongue-and-groove wood fiber board on the outside of the frame, which I think has worked well. On the board, you screw a 34x70 batten into the frame, on which the panel is nailed.

 

[Snickarkirre]

Oh okay, I have zero experience with wood fiber insulation so I can't comment on it, unfortunately. Out of pure curiosity, I wonder if it is solely for environmental reasons that one uses wood fiber insulation, or are there other advantages compared to glass/stone wool?

 

[nybyggarn3]

Yes, 25mm might be relevant. Did it feel like the nail rule, etc., was properly set? I've only felt the 12mm, it doesn't feel particularly hard.

Interesting product, really! Looked at these before, and they are probably just fine! However, I have doubts about the durability and lifespan, probably completely unfounded.
What do you use as a baseplate/top plate? How do you make a support beam?

Can I ask what you paid per meter?

It felt really good with the board. It was easy to tape between the board and the window/door frame to make it really tight. I had some scrap pieces that were left outside for about 6 months, and they looked almost new every time they had dried.

Completely unfounded according to me. Lightweight beams are used where regular timber becomes too flimsy, as an alternative to glulam. Why durability would be an issue is hard for me to see. Maybe if the glue were to fail, but then you'd have many other problems. The strength and length are an advantage even in the framework. My house is partially quite tall, a full two stories. We raised it without wall joints, with up to 8-meter long studs.

I bought the entire framework, including the construction drawings. Paid a total of 80 thousand SEK + VAT, and that included all glulam (beams) and the intermediate floor. However, not the trusses. I just sent them an architectural drawing, and they took care of the rest.

Both the baseplate and top plate are made of lightweight beams and accommodated insulation.

 

[nybyggarn3]

Oh okay, I have zero experience with wood fiber insulation so unfortunately I can't comment on it. Out of pure curiosity, I wonder if it's solely for environmental reasons that one uses wood fiber insulation, or are there other advantages compared to glass/stone wool?

For me, it's primarily because of the wood's properties to absorb and transport moisture. Then the entire wall becomes fantastically airtight when blown with cellulose. We inspected the entire house with a thermal camera during the pressure test and the professional who was here was very impressed with how even the insulation was.

Another advantage is the weight. The insulation is packed tightly, which makes a very heavy wall. It becomes fantastically quiet and evens out the temperature in an incredibly good way.

 

[Snickarkirre]

For me, it is primarily due to the wood's properties to absorb and transport moisture. Then the entire wall becomes fantastically tight when you blow it with cellulose. We inspected the entire house with a thermal camera during the pressure testing, and the professional who was here was very impressed with how even the insulation was.

Another advantage is the weight. The insulation is packed tightly, which makes for a very heavy wall. It becomes fantastically quiet and evens out the temperature in an incredibly good way.

Okay, interesting to know! As I said, I have no knowledge of those things, so it's always good with a little more wisdom

 

[Wallawhoa]

I have been on several construction sites where we placed a hard 60 mm tongue-and-groove wood fiberboard outside the frame, which I think has worked well. On the board, a 34x70 batten is screwed into the frame on which the paneling is nailed.

I have been on several construction sites where we placed a hard 60 mm tongue-and-groove wood fiberboard outside the frame, which I think has worked well. On the board, a 34x70 batten is screwed into the frame on which the paneling is nailed.

Yes, it is definitely an interesting board, I know that hållbaraträhus used to use this, but now they use Hunton. I don't know the reason. It probably works great, but I don't dare to try it. I assume you mean woodycell.

 

[Wallawhoa]

Okay, interesting to know! As I've said, I have no clue about those things, so it's always good with a bit more wisdom

It is partly for environmental reasons, as well as the construction being more forgiving. Otherwise, I don't think there's any difference.

For me, it is primarily because of the wood's properties to absorb and transport moisture. Then the entire wall becomes fantastically tight when you blow it with cellulose. We inspected the whole house with a thermal camera during the pressure test, and the professional here was very impressed with how even the insulation was.

Another advantage is the weight. The insulation is packed tightly, giving a very heavy wall. It becomes fantastically quiet and evens out the temperature in an incredibly good way.

I also think it could be a great construction; I understand that the load-bearing capacity, etc., becomes optimal. Probably much more expensive today, but should be marginal material costs for the producer. Can one count on the adhesion being permanent and not coming apart? For 100 years?

This is my first build for permanent residence, not daring to try something new this time. But as I said, a very interesting product in many respects.

I am considering using 25+195+70 horizontal+rustic planking or 15mm OSB+gypsum.

 

[nybyggarn3]

It is partly for environmental reasons, and the construction is more forgiving. Otherwise, I don't think there is any difference.

I also think it can be a great construction; I understand that load-bearing capacity, etc., becomes optimal. Certainly much more expensive today, but there should be marginal material costs for the producer. Can one expect the gluing to be permanent and not come apart? Over 100 years?

This is my first build for permanent residence, and I'm not daring to try anything new this time. But as I said, it is a very interesting product in many respects.

I'm considering going for 25+195+70 horizontal+raw board or 15mm OSB+plaster.

Let's keep our fingers crossed that glued wood materials hold. Otherwise, houses will collapse like card houses when all glued laminated timber gives way.

It will probably be good too. A bit cowardly, I might think

 

[Wallawhoa]

Hi! Can you use a 50mm facade board like Västkust externally instead of two layers of studs on the inside? And if you're using OSB+gypsum, you can lift the bottom stud on the horizontal layer and lower the top one by 45mm to get insulation at both the sill and wall plate level.

Is it a common trick to raise the stud above the sill and below the wall plate? Can't find anywhere where this is done. Why?

 

[Wallawhoa]

If I run 25+170+45+45

Should I do the first lying down or standing?