Are floor particle boards harder in material than other particle boards?
 
I'm adding a supplementary question to the above (hope that's OK):
Can MDF be used as a subfloor instead of chipboard or floor gypsum?
 
mdf would be damn expensive :P

floor chipboard has grooves, so just putter around... miss mdf
 
I mean, what is the difference between regular chip and chipboard. Besides possible thickness and lips.

For example, floor plasterboard is stronger than wall plasterboard.
 
TiGGrE said:
mdf would become hellishly expensive :P

floor chipboard has grooves, so just fiddle with it... miss mdf
Sure, but apart from the price, are there other drawbacks that make one not use MDF?
(I happen to have a batch that I got, but don't have any other use for right now).
 
The floor chipboard is tongue-and-groove, which I suspect your MDF boards are not, and a chipboard floor panel must always have support either along the side of another panel via the tongue-and-groove or an underlying joist.
 
if you trade MDF for floor chipboard per m2, then you have a deal if it's in northern Stockholm ;D
 
hempularen said:
The floor particleboard is tongue and groove, which I suspect your MDF panels are not, and a floor particleboard always needs to be supported either along the side by another panel via the tongue or by an underlying joist.
Even next to a wall?
 
TiGGrE said:
if you trade MDF for chipboard per m2, then you have a deal if it's in northern Stockholm ;D
Hehe, no, it's only 4 boards and they always come in handy.
 
Thank you for the information regarding the function of the tongue and groove on the floor chipboard. Could I also get an answer to my question? :P
 
Sonander said:
Yes, you should also have a rule along the wall, see Swedspan's installation instructions for floor chipboard [link]
Thanks, thanks, but unfortunately it's totally irrelevant for my part.

Can we _please_ get back to what _I_ wanted to know? :(
 
picking up the thread....

I have a similar question I'm pondering, but it involves tongue-and-groove flooring chipboard vs. regular chipboard with the same thickness...

how much worse does it get if you lay regular chipboard with "all" joints over the joists (600cc)?! compared to laying glued tongue-and-groove flooring on the same joists?

Could reinforcing the unsupported joints with extra crosswise joists be a solution!?

I can see the point of the tongue-and-groove, but given the price and the fact that I'm going to lay it in an attic/guest room, I'm trying to keep the cost down.

I hope someone can support me in this thought process...
 
I can't say how much worse it becomes in percentage or so, but I can state that this was how it was done in the past. In two of the rooms I renovated, there were nailed chipboard floor panels from the 1960s without tongue and groove. All the joints were made over joists, but these joints creaked incredibly as the boards rubbed against each other as the nails had started to rise out....

If you use screw glue against the joists and have supports under all joints, I don't think you'll notice any practical difference compared to a tongue-and-groove 22mm chipboard, but you probably can't certify the construction regarding point loads, etc., compared to a tongue-and-groove floor panel.

/The Engineer
 
But if you have regular chipboard in large amounts so you can use it as fertilizer, why not ensure that all joints land 20cm from the beams and under all joints, complement with a 30-40cm wide chipboard strip that is screwed and glued under both boards to be joined?

On the other hand: If I look at prices for flooring chipboard vs regular chipboard at Byggmax, I wonder if there is really such a big difference in price in the end? What does a 22mm chipboard cost vs flooring chipboard (89sek each at 60cm width)?
 
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