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18 replies
7k views
18 replies
Hardness of floor chipboard
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Know-It-All
· Härifrån
· 787 posts
I'm adding a supplementary question to the above (hope that's OK):
Can MDF be used as a subfloor instead of chipboard or floor gypsum?
Can MDF be used as a subfloor instead of chipboard or floor gypsum?
Know-It-All
· Härifrån
· 787 posts
Moderator
· Stockholm
· 56 250 posts
The floor chipboard is tongue-and-groove, which I suspect your MDF boards are not, and a chipboard floor panel must always have support either along the side of another panel via the tongue-and-groove or an underlying joist.
Know-It-All
· Härifrån
· 787 posts
picking up the thread....
I have a similar question I'm pondering, but it involves tongue-and-groove flooring chipboard vs. regular chipboard with the same thickness...
how much worse does it get if you lay regular chipboard with "all" joints over the joists (600cc)?! compared to laying glued tongue-and-groove flooring on the same joists?
Could reinforcing the unsupported joints with extra crosswise joists be a solution!?
I can see the point of the tongue-and-groove, but given the price and the fact that I'm going to lay it in an attic/guest room, I'm trying to keep the cost down.
I hope someone can support me in this thought process...
I have a similar question I'm pondering, but it involves tongue-and-groove flooring chipboard vs. regular chipboard with the same thickness...
how much worse does it get if you lay regular chipboard with "all" joints over the joists (600cc)?! compared to laying glued tongue-and-groove flooring on the same joists?
Could reinforcing the unsupported joints with extra crosswise joists be a solution!?
I can see the point of the tongue-and-groove, but given the price and the fact that I'm going to lay it in an attic/guest room, I'm trying to keep the cost down.
I hope someone can support me in this thought process...
I can't say how much worse it becomes in percentage or so, but I can state that this was how it was done in the past. In two of the rooms I renovated, there were nailed chipboard floor panels from the 1960s without tongue and groove. All the joints were made over joists, but these joints creaked incredibly as the boards rubbed against each other as the nails had started to rise out....
If you use screw glue against the joists and have supports under all joints, I don't think you'll notice any practical difference compared to a tongue-and-groove 22mm chipboard, but you probably can't certify the construction regarding point loads, etc., compared to a tongue-and-groove floor panel.
/The Engineer
If you use screw glue against the joists and have supports under all joints, I don't think you'll notice any practical difference compared to a tongue-and-groove 22mm chipboard, but you probably can't certify the construction regarding point loads, etc., compared to a tongue-and-groove floor panel.
/The Engineer
But if you have regular chipboard in large amounts so you can use it as fertilizer, why not ensure that all joints land 20cm from the beams and under all joints, complement with a 30-40cm wide chipboard strip that is screwed and glued under both boards to be joined?
On the other hand: If I look at prices for flooring chipboard vs regular chipboard at Byggmax, I wonder if there is really such a big difference in price in the end? What does a 22mm chipboard cost vs flooring chipboard (89sek each at 60cm width)?
On the other hand: If I look at prices for flooring chipboard vs regular chipboard at Byggmax, I wonder if there is really such a big difference in price in the end? What does a 22mm chipboard cost vs flooring chipboard (89sek each at 60cm width)?
