Hello all happy builders,

My partner and I have recently hired contractors to do a major renovation in our apartment. Part of the work is to close up a door opening. I was over there today (day 3 of 20) with a friend who has a bit more practical experience than I do. We looked at the work so far and they have closed up the door hole with studs, OSB, and plasterboard on the outside. My friend pointed out that it will most certainly crack at the seams because wood moves. Is this true? What can be done about this? Can we demand they do it according to another method? Is there a way to prevent it from cracking, like putting microlit on the walls? Can we demand they apply it?

There are many questions and I'm starting to get a bit worried about the whole project. Perhaps there are wise people here on the forum who can help with (1) Will this hold up? (2) Can anything be done to make it hold up (3) If this isn't professionally done, do I have any options as a consumer here?

I don't really want to start arguing with the contractors too much just yet since there's still electrical work and surfaces to be done.
A partially closed doorway with OSB and drywall in progress, surrounded by a patchy wall, and a metal ladder in front.

99271f38-79b1-448c-9e34-533b40f840d5.jpeg
99271f38-79b1-448c-9e34-533b40f840d5.jpeg
Thanks for the help!
 
Krilleman
I did exactly the same in my apartment.

There was a "circuit" so kids and adults could run "round and round" a thousand times (if that's enough) via the kitchen. Sealed the doorway (light concrete) between the living room/little bedroom like in your picture. However, I insulated well with stone wool for sound...

Plastered and wallpapered, and was super satisfied with it, no cracks during the year I lived there before selling the apartment.

Go for it!
It will probably turn out great. (y)(y)(y)
 
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Stefan Lindva and 3 others
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The idea is right. But the execution ?? If it's the carpenters who did this, I would question the whole job.
 
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Supercub and 2 others
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Krilleman
If you're unsure, you can easily place several "tvärreglar" horizontally to brace any movement in the plaster! (y)
 
I am more concerned about movements in the studs than in the drywall, I made a similar solution in one of my openings and with the movements of the studs with the seasons it cracked open quite quickly. To brick it up with lightweight concrete blocks or steel studs and double drywall would have been my choice today. As little wood as possible in principle.
 
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APG
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R RoBo said:
The idea is right. But the execution ?? If it's the carpenters who did this I would question the entire job.
It's the carpenters, yes. What do you mean by the execution?
 
M myrstack said:
I'm more concerned about movements in the studs than in the plaster, I made a similar solution in one of my openings, and with the movements of the studs with the seasons, it cracked quite quickly. To brick it up with lightweight concrete blocks or steel studs and double plasterboard would have been my choice today. As little wood as possible, in principle
How long did it take before it cracked? Lightweight steel studs and plasterboard is probably the closest thing to recommend
 
Krilleman Krilleman said:
Filled and wallpapered and was super pleased with it, no cracks in the year I lived there before I sold the apartment.
Won't be wallpapering but painting, so won't be able to cover anything that way. Then again, a year feels like a short time to say "it holds." But thanks for the answer!
 
The safest way is to apply a layer of plaster. In addition, you won't have to putty the rest of the wall surface, which otherwise seems necessary according to the picture.
 
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APG
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A APG said:
It is the carpenters, yes. What do you mean by the execution?
I think he means the actual framing. For example, the top beam rests over the upright one on one side and against the upright beam on the other side. A "real" carpenter would have done the same on both sides.
 
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Maria T and 1 other
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A APG said:
It's the carpenters, yes. What do you mean by the execution?
Looks very amateurish. No real carpenter frames in that way.
 
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Maria T and 4 others
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Can only see the first image, not the others? So my response is based on the first image.

If you don't put a strip there when plastering, they will crack regardless of whether you glue the plasterboard. Your builders know this. Looking at the rest of the wall, there are lots of holes and unevenness. I'm pretty sure the painter will fully plaster the entire wall and place strips at the seams in between. I can't comment on the plastering as I can't see the images. The framing with OSB looks as good as can be. Ignore what others have written about the joint on the studs because it has zero significance. Rest assured, it looks fine, your builders have definitely done this before.

Best regards, the painter
 
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Agree with RoBo. It looks very, very amateurish. As a carpenter, I don't frame like that. You put a beam at the top and bottom. Then one in between on each side, which is secured properly to the existing wall. Screws and plugs are suggested. Then foam sealant. Finally, one standing in the middle. I question the "carpenters'" competence.
 
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Maria T and 4 others
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L Lechuza said:
Can only see the first image and not the others? So my response is based on the first image.
Best regards, the painter
Ok, thanks. So you have experience doing it this way without it cracking? By plastering strips? Is there anything else I should check with the craftsman? This is what it looks like on the other side of the door opening. Unfortunately, I don't see any strips here, but maybe they are coming later?
A wall with a plastered doorway, lacking visible tape strips. Potential construction area with unfinished wall joints. Close-up of a plastered wall area with uneven texture, showing no visible tape in a renovation project near a door opening.
 
Erik Hedstrom Erik Hedstrom said:
I agree with RoBo. It looks very, very amateurish.
Thank you for your response. Ok, I will take that to them. Is there something I should ask them to redo? Does it work otherwise with studs, OSB, then plasterboard on this type of "repair"? Thanks again for the help.
 
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