I have built a double garage with a 3.5m ceiling height. Now I'm considering building a shelf or balcony along the entire short side, as the carpenter suggested. I was thinking it should extend from the gable to the second truss in depth. That would be about 2.40 meters approximately. I was considering a support beam on the wall and then a support beam with braces up to the truss. According to the truss drawing, the trusses are calculated for a live load of 50 kg m2. The idea is to store car parts on the shelf, primarily, not heavy engines but fenders, interior, and so on. I work with cars as a hobby. Do you think this would work? I'm sending a picture of an attempt at a drawing. I was thinking of attaching the braces with nail plates. You could also set braces to the second truss as well.
That means you can load approximately 40 kg per meter of shelf, including the shelf construction's own weight (which is quite small). That should suffice for many needs.
It sounds like I can get to work. I have the garage full of screens and doors and other parts for a Citroen Padda. I'm going to fix the inside of the garage this fall and winter, and then I plan to start with the shelf so I can clear away some stuff. I guess I'll weigh what I put up there and write it down on a suitable rule
I have always admired Citroën from a distance. Cool design and bold engineering, but maybe not for a frugal car owner. The Paddan (ID 19) was decades ahead of its time when it came out in 1955? Keep an eye on the weights and it will work out.
Yes, driving an old padda has its pros and cons. Wonderful when it works, but a lot can go wrong. But I worked as a Citroën mechanic back when there were a few paddas on the road, and that's no disadvantage.
Would it be advantageous to hang the shelf in both rafters? There will be a few more beams in the way, but that feels secondary.
Thanks for the help. I know you've helped me before and have complete control over this stuff.
If you're worried about the weight, you can place a number of joists on the top between truss one and three, thereby distributing the load over three trusses instead of one.
I suspect that the trusses are connected anyway through the roof fan and other things.
Then I will probably place some beams on the top for a bridge. That will be like Lostmoose suggests. It's just a matter of fastening them securely to the lower arm if it contributes in any way. But the most important thing is probably to keep an eye on the load.
What do you recommend for flooring for the shelf? I was thinking of particle board, but maybe raw wood paneling or something similar could be used. It should hold a few items and allow for some crawling around when fetching something. It should preferably be cheap as well. I checked in the handbook and 120 floor joists should support 1.30 on a patio, so it should work here too. The actual span probably won't be more than 1.30.
Normal chipboard cannot handle spacing of 120 cm. Raw pine is the stiffest, lightest, and cheapest. For best comfort, preferably about 35 mm thick, but 23 mm works for sporadic use.
I checked Buildmax and there, floor particle board is a bit cheaper than tongue and groove per square meter. I looked at 20x120 mm tongue and groove and it should be able to span a 60 cm center. But floor particle board with tongue and groove feels easier and faster to lay and, as mentioned, a bit cheaper.
Would go with tongue and groove boarding and skip putting anything on top as tongue and groove can absorb moisture and possible oils without taking damage like chipboard does. It also feels like chipboard is heavier, but maybe that's misjudged as it's harder to lift because it's more cumbersome.
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