Floor construction with waterborne underfloor heating in basement

Tommor · 23 Feb 2013 at 12:10 PM

The problem is that you get a concern that you can't see until you have serious issues. That's why many houses have this problem but it's not discovered until renovations need to be done.

ronolo · 23 Feb 2013 at 1:41 PM

Tommor, Which problems are you referring to?

Tommor · 23 Feb 2013 at 1:45 PM

Poor insulation and moisture problems from the underside

AcidSleeper · 23 Feb 2013 at 1:58 PM

This thread is getting off track. Reaching out to Nivell and other flooring contractors in the area to see what they say.

Tommor · 23 Feb 2013 at 3:30 PM

AcidSleeper said:
This thread is getting off track. I'll get in touch with Nivell and other floor layers in the area and see what they say.

You're doing the right thing, but also get in touch with the plumber and the floor heating manufacturer. Floor layers and floor manufacturers do not have the necessary knowledge for dimensioning.

AcidSleeper · 25 Feb 2013 at 11:34 AM

For your information: Nivell golv is now only available with 20-95mm insulation.

pelle242 · 25 Feb 2013 at 12:10 PM

What does Nivell say about underfloor heating? Is it possible to combine it with a ventilated floor and if so, how?

AcidSleeper · 26 Feb 2013 at 9:54 AM

I have realized that I have a single-pipe system for the radiators...

Why should the price double just because you need a circulation pump?

trojlee · 26 Feb 2013 at 3:52 PM

I had demolished the old slab and insulated with EPS concrete (did it myself) then underfloor heating and self-leveling screed on top of that. This way you avoid having anything organic as it would be with a floating floor so that any potential moisture migration doesn't create a problem. What is it that doubles the price?.. That you need a shunt and a circulation pump?
//
M

anders07 · 26 Feb 2013 at 4:02 PM

trojlee said:
I would have removed the old slab and insulated with EPS concrete (did it myself), then underfloor heating and leveling compound on top. That way you avoid having anything organic like with the Nivell flooring, so any moisture migration doesn't create a problem. What is it that doubles the price? Is it that you need a mixing valve and a circulation pump?
//
M

What is organic in Nivell flooring?
Or, well, the joists are wood, but they stand on plastic pads and have ventilation channels underneath, so they can never come into contact with the slab...

anders07 · 26 Feb 2013 at 4:02 PM

pelle242 said:
What does Nivell say about underfloor heating? Is it possible to combine with a ventilated floor and if so, how?

We have Nivellgolv and then LK EPS16 on top of that. You can also take Nivellgolv with grooved chipboard.

AcidSleeper · 26 Feb 2013 at 4:19 PM

I have no problem with moisture but am still installing a ventilated floor since it won't hurt.

that's exactly what's driving the cost up. if I look at the price for a two-pipe system for 5sqm it's about 3000, but for a one-pipe system it's almost 6000kr, just got a quote here for 5000kr +VAT......
so damn expensive for only 5sqm

Tommor · 26 Feb 2013 at 5:41 PM

See no reason for them, it's exactly the same stuff that's used...
LK's minishunt is adjustable between a one and two-pipe system... But the first price might just have been a minikretsventil... And then it should be several thousand in difference...

AcidSleeper · 26 Feb 2013 at 6:01 PM

mm for LK 5 sqm it's just a mininkretsventil.... then if you want to buy for a larger sqm a minishunt is included but then the price also rises.. it's the minishunt that costs!

Do you know anything that costs less than 3500 SEK for 5 sqm? If you do, please write a line... It would be appreciated!

Tommor · 26 Feb 2013 at 9:46 PM

Now I'm going to improvise a little...
it should work with just a mini circuit valve if it's possible to install a bypass line between the radiator system and the inlet to the underfloor heating loop. And you install a check valve to ensure the flow direction in a suitable place...
But then you have the trouble of adjusting and tuning everything so it works... And that's if it works, that is! And I haven't tried this method myself, but in theory, it should be possible to make it work...
but I wouldn't skimp and do it unless it was absolutely necessary...
my suggestion would be to keep a radiator or a towel warmer and then complement with electric heating for comfort...
or install an m60 or push12, then it will be at least less troublesome and certainly better in the long run... despite the more expensive investment...