Floor gypsum - why?

[Brannmark]

There is extra hard "wall" gypsum which is the same type as floor gypsum but with the wall gypsum's size. However, it doesn't seem to be very popular in Sweden with extra hard gypsum. I installed regular gypsum in my utility area on the walls and I really regret it. It leaves marks from the slightest bump. For the rest of the house, that is the main part, I bought extra hard gypsum from Finland since I live near the border. Much, much better.

 

[Pasta]

There is extra hard "vägg" gypsum which is the same type as floor gypsum but with the size of wall gypsum. However, it doesn't seem to be very popular in Sweden to use extra hard gypsum. I put regular gypsum on the walls in my economic section and I regret it a lot. Marks appear from the slightest bump. For the rest of the house, i.e. the main section, I bought extra hard gypsum from Finland since I live near the border. Much much better.

How is it to screw into extra hard gypsum?
My experience is that the harder the gypsum, the greater the risk that it bulges up around the screw head and it becomes harder to fill so that it becomes completely smooth.

/Patrik

 

[Brannmark]

Works fine to screw in if you have the right screws and drive the screw in completely straight. If you angle the screw even slightly, it creates ridges. I bought nice screws in Finland that look just like an ordinary drywall screw but with a different angle on the head. The extra hard drywall screws I've bought in Sweden, I think have too small a head to fasten as they should. Moreover, there are more ridges with them.

Finns have very fine building materials. In Sweden, we use 45x70 as standard timber, meaning it gives a finished wall of 96-97mm. What is a door frame, well it is 92-93mm. What happens with the moldings, well they "tilt" a bit. In Finland, they have 44x66mm as standard timber, meaning a finished wall with wallpaper is 92-93mm.....

 

[Pasta]

Works fine to screw in if you have the right screws and screw them in completely straight. If you angle the screw the slightest, there will be ridges. I bought some nice screws in Finland that look just like regular drywall screws but with a different angle on the head. The extra hard drywall screws I bought in Sweden I think have too small a head to tighten properly. Additionally, there are more ridges with them.

The Finns have very good building materials. In Sweden, we use 45x70 for timber, which means it gives a finished wall of 96-97mm. What is a door frame, well it's 92-93mm. What happens with the moldings, well they "tip" a bit. In Finland, they have 44x66mm as timber, meaning the finished wall with wallpaper is 92-93mm.....

66 mm is still too thin in my opinion, personally I have 95mm + OSB + Gypsum total 143 mm and order frames accordingly or adjust to the correct measurements.
With 95mm and OSB + Gypsum, you get a rigid wall with good acoustic properties

/Patrik

 

[Brannmark]

Depends on what budget you have. 44x66 is perfectly fine for interior walls.

 

[Pasta]

Depends on what budget you have. 44x66 is fine for interior walls.

The difference is about 3kr / running meter for the wood or about 5 kr/m² for interior walls if you choose 70mm instead of 95mm. A 5% difference for the entire wall construction is not much for that quality improvement, plus you get better space for installations.

/Patrik

 

[Mikael_L]

The difference is about 3 SEK per linear meter on the timber or about 5 SEK/m² interior wall if you choose 70mm instead of 95mm. A 5% difference for the whole wall construction is not much for that quality improvement, plus you get better space for installations.

/Patrik

But the rooms become so d*** small, then !!!

 

[Lindgrenski]

Sure. And feel free to write here if you want comments on their construction, if they don't follow my suggestion. It's really important that they adhere to current industry standards and the suppliers' installation instructions to the letter.

Haven't talked to them yet, but my sister said they had floor gypsum because it's pretty much the only thing that doesn't move, so it prevents cracking in the tiles.

 

[jon_h]

That's not true. As I said.

 

[janus]

When we were looking at tiles at Kakelcentraen in Växjö, the salesperson said that new regulations would be coming this summer. The new rule was that you couldn't have gypsum on the bathroom floor; it must be leveling compound.

 

[Lindgrenski]

Sure, we should definitely have leveling compound. But the question is whether we should have gypsum underneath or not.

 

[jon_h]

There is no reason to have plasterboard under the self-leveling compound. For the third time...

And indeed, as Janus says, the new industry regulations will not approve of cardboard plasterboard anywhere in wet rooms.

 

[Lindgrenski]

There is no reason to have plaster under the self-leveling compound. For the third time..

And as janus rightly says, the new industry regulations will not approve drywall anywhere in wet rooms.

Drywall? Tricky words these.

 

[jon_h]

Gypsum boards covered with cardboard. Common gypsum boards, including floor gypsum boards, have this.

 

[Lindgrenski]

Okay, then we have to hurry up and finish building because we already have plasterboard on the ceiling and walls.