Morning!
I have a small question. I have a grooved chipboard floor where heating plates will be installed, followed by the heating coils. I was thinking of placing gypsum between the chipboard floor and the parquet to reduce impact sound to the floor below.
For those who know, is it a good idea to put gypsum in between, or does it make no difference?
I currently have about 1.5 pallets of gypsum up there... not floor gypsum though, but will regular 13mm wall gypsum work, or should I buy floor gypsum?
I have a small question. I have a grooved chipboard floor where heating plates will be installed, followed by the heating coils. I was thinking of placing gypsum between the chipboard floor and the parquet to reduce impact sound to the floor below.
For those who know, is it a good idea to put gypsum in between, or does it make no difference?
I currently have about 1.5 pallets of gypsum up there... not floor gypsum though, but will regular 13mm wall gypsum work, or should I buy floor gypsum?
Did exactly as you have been considering but used floor gypsum. I primarily wanted the same floor level between tiles/parquet and a bit better sound/step insulation as a bonus!
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vvs/golvvarme_gles/
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vvs/golvvarme_gles/
Very fancy Bygganytt, lucky I don't have to level the tracks... but you've done it amazingly well. You must have been very careful when you laid the floor gyp board if you screwed it? I've heard you're not supposed to screw it, or you can glue and screw but then you have to remove the screws according to the standards.
What thickness did you use for the floor gyp board and did you notice any difference when you had floor gyp board versus without?
What thickness did you use for the floor gyp board and did you notice any difference when you had floor gyp board versus without?
Thanks!
Yes, I both glued and screwed the floor gypsum, and regarding removing the screws, that is true BUT only in wet rooms because the screws (theoretically) could damage the waterproofing layer.
As far as I know, floor gypsum only comes in 13mm. No, I can't notice any difference because I can't compare before/after. I built everything new, so everything was done at once!
Yes, I both glued and screwed the floor gypsum, and regarding removing the screws, that is true BUT only in wet rooms because the screws (theoretically) could damage the waterproofing layer.
As far as I know, floor gypsum only comes in 13mm. No, I can't notice any difference because I can't compare before/after. I built everything new, so everything was done at once!
That depends... I don't know what kind of grooved chipboards you've used, but if you're laying Wirsbo 17 in their grooved boards, Wirsbo says you should only screw the gypsum. At least that's the answer both I and someone else here (can't remember who) have independently received from Wirsbo. Then I'm not quite sure how they manage it in wet rooms... but in such cases, Wirsbo recommends double gypsum to create slopes, and then you probably fully glue the upper layer of gypsum. But you're right about the tongue - it's crucial to keep track of where the loops are when you screw!M@ZE said:
If the goal is simply to achieve sound-enhancing properties, then go ahead.
However, one should be clear that there is a big difference between floor gypsum and wall/ceiling gypsum! Floor gypsum is significantly more stable/robust/heavier, etc. Special floor gypsum screws are also required since "ordinary" ones won't work...
As I said, I wanted a generally more stable floor/framework, so I chose floor gypsum!
However, one should be clear that there is a big difference between floor gypsum and wall/ceiling gypsum! Floor gypsum is significantly more stable/robust/heavier, etc. Special floor gypsum screws are also required since "ordinary" ones won't work...
As I said, I wanted a generally more stable floor/framework, so I chose floor gypsum!
Well, damn, how many screws are actually needed??
A question for Bygganytt.. what are the 2 cables seen in the picture:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vvs/golvvarme_gles/DCP02474.JPG
A question for Bygganytt.. what are the 2 cables seen in the picture:
http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/vvs/golvvarme_gles/DCP02474.JPG
Masooor with screws, I covered the entire upper floor = 125 m2!
Aha, yes, they are for the room thermostats and it's the cable to the floor sensors you see. The floor sensor actually has priority over the air sensor, that way I can have max temperature on the parquet and min temperature on all stone/ceramic floors!
Aha, yes, they are for the room thermostats and it's the cable to the floor sensors you see. The floor sensor actually has priority over the air sensor, that way I can have max temperature on the parquet and min temperature on all stone/ceramic floors!
Just a small question ByggaNytt, what adhesive did you use when you glued your gypsum boards? Is it really necessary to glue?
Anything special I should consider.. I've understood about special screws, but anything else I should keep in mind?
I've laid out the floor heating plate and the loop in the bedroom so far, but nothing more than that.
Anything special I should consider.. I've understood about special screws, but anything else I should keep in mind?
I've laid out the floor heating plate and the loop in the bedroom so far, but nothing more than that.
I actually only glued where I was going to lay some form of stone/tile (hallway, kitchen) and then I used the "classic" PL400. I would have preferred to use Ardex S48, but since the contact area is quite small due to all the underfloor heating plates + the price difference and since it wasn't a wet area, I went with PL.
Yes, you should measure/draw CAREFULLY on the floor gypsum BEFORE you screw it in for pretty obvious reasons...
Good luck!
Yes, you should measure/draw CAREFULLY on the floor gypsum BEFORE you screw it in for pretty obvious reasons...
Good luck!