Option 1: 21x95 slat panel with 55mm gap between, fiberboard and a click floor 8mm across the slats. Do you think the floor will be too soft in the "55mm gaps"? Of course, I'll join the click floor across the slats.
Option 2: lay plasterboard everywhere on the slats, then 8mm click floor.
This is of course laid over the existing chipboard on the floor. The question mark is whether floor gypsum traps moisture? And how heat transfer-friendly or whatever you want to call it is the plasterboard? I'd ideally like the underfloor heating as close to the feet as possible.
Maybe it's possible to split in an extra board between the slats where the hose doesn't lie also in option 1.
Grateful for answers.
Option 2: lay plasterboard everywhere on the slats, then 8mm click floor.
This is of course laid over the existing chipboard on the floor. The question mark is whether floor gypsum traps moisture? And how heat transfer-friendly or whatever you want to call it is the plasterboard? I'd ideally like the underfloor heating as close to the feet as possible.
Maybe it's possible to split in an extra board between the slats where the hose doesn't lie also in option 1.
Grateful for answers.
I would have used tracked chipboard flooring, then it's fine to lay click flooring directly on top with only sawdust paper in between.
The risk with sparse is that it becomes uneven. Sparse paneling does not have exactly the same dimensions, they can also be slightly warped which gives different heights, depending on the density of the wood they can dry differently, etc. Tracked chipboard flooring is more exact in thickness.
The risk with sparse is that it becomes uneven. Sparse paneling does not have exactly the same dimensions, they can also be slightly warped which gives different heights, depending on the density of the wood they can dry differently, etc. Tracked chipboard flooring is more exact in thickness.
U
Utsliten och utdömd
Building conservationist
· 2 604 posts
Utsliten och utdömd
Building conservationist
- 2,604 posts
Buy 22mm particle board and rip it to the correct width, I don't know what CC you have on the pipe, and use it as sparse.
It will be more dimensionally stable and you can lay the floor directly on it. Even if ripping takes some time, I would say it goes faster in the end.
If you use regular sparse, you will need some tongue-and-groove board on top before you can lay the floor on it. The only time I know sparse has worked well directly is under plank flooring.
It will be more dimensionally stable and you can lay the floor directly on it. Even if ripping takes some time, I would say it goes faster in the end.
If you use regular sparse, you will need some tongue-and-groove board on top before you can lay the floor on it. The only time I know sparse has worked well directly is under plank flooring.
I have installed sparse paneling on 60-70 sqm at home. Sparse paneling on floor joists, on top of that two layers of floor gypsum screwed and glued to achieve bending stiffness for tiles.
You don't have to use two layers, of course, but definitely lay a layer of gypsum to get a good and step sound-damping layer to lay the floor on. There will be no problem with moisture from it.
You don't have to use two layers, of course, but definitely lay a layer of gypsum to get a good and step sound-damping layer to lay the floor on. There will be no problem with moisture from it.
I have laid 22x120 with underfloor heating, then floor gypsum and 8 mm laminate flooring. However, I have about cc300 on the controls. It's firm and good, we'll see how it holds up in the long run.
Member
· Korpilombolo
· 3 610 posts
Is it electric underfloor heating or waterborne? Why not underfloor heating plate? Why 55mm between the spaced panels? How should the hose be held in place (if it is waterborne)? The usual practice is to lay the underfloor heating with plates and the spaced panels under the load-bearing floor.
A leveling layer is likely needed on top of the spaced panels, such as floor gypsum, chipboard, or wood flooring.
In some way, the heat needs to be distributed, for example with underfloor heating plates, to avoid cold streaks between the loops.
A leveling layer is likely needed on top of the spaced panels, such as floor gypsum, chipboard, or wood flooring.
In some way, the heat needs to be distributed, for example with underfloor heating plates, to avoid cold streaks between the loops.
U
Utsliten och utdömd
Building conservationist
· 2 604 posts
Utsliten och utdömd
Building conservationist
- 2,604 posts
If you already have floor chipboard, EPS track boards are the most common way to lay the pipe. You can then lay the floor directly on top.
No, it's the studs underneath that are about cc300. The floor structure, that is.N Niklaspe said: