Strengthen joists.

[Tompafix]

yes, I think I should try to do that!
However, in certain places, I will need to attach the studs to the kortling.
For example, where the floor drain gets in the way.
But it's not the end of the world, is it?
It's standing on the foundation wall on one side anyway.
And then extra with kortlingar there to distribute the load to the other studs.

That will be fine.

 

[amoreex]

It will be just fine.

feels like I've come up with a sensible plan.
However, I don't know how to attach it to the foundation wall at the far end??
Or can I use "kortlingar" there to brace it so it doesn't move?

the load is still downwards.

at the outer wall, the sill is accessible.

 

[Tompafix]

feels like I've got a sensible plan.
However, I don't know how to attach it to the far foundation wall??
Or can I use cross bracing there to stabilize it so it doesn't move?

the load is still downward.

by the outer wall, the sill is accessible.

Yes, as you say, the most important thing is that it doesn't move or twist as the load goes straight down.

 

[amoreex]

Yes, as you say the most important thing is that it doesn't move or twist when the load goes straight down.

super.
And then 100mm screws should be enough for the kortlingar?

 

[Tompafix]

super.
And then 100mm screws should be enough for the kortlingarna?

I would have gone with 120mm, but that might be overkill

 

[amoreex]

I would have gone with 120mm, but maybe it's overkill

it feels a bit overkill.
Isn't the rule that the screw should be twice as long as what you're fastening into?
So at least 90mm?
But maybe that's just the minimum?

 

[Tompafix]

it feels a bit like overkill.
I think the rule is that the screw should be twice as long as what you are attaching it to.
So at least 90mm?
But maybe that's simply the minimum?

From what I recall, it is double the length just like you said. So 100mm is definitely enough. If you also use glue, you can sleep soundly

 

[amoreex]

I believe it is double length just as you write. So 100mm will definitely be enough. If you also use glue, you can sleep soundly

A little thought as I'm here planing away the remnants of the old floor chipboard..

noggings.
Should they be the same height as the studs?
And then cut the subfloor panels at each nogging?
Or should they be around 195 so you can fit insulation underneath?

It might be difficult to get right and better with a stud all the way down?

I'll still need to modify the subfloor panels to fit in the new cc30 anyway.
But at what distance should the noggings be placed?

 

[Tompafix]

A little thought as I go here planing away the remnants of the old floor chips..

the noggins.
Should they be the same height as the studs?
And then cut the bottom boards at each noggin?
Or should they be like 195 so you can get insulation underneath?

though it might be difficult to get it right and better with a stud all the way down?

A little thought as I go here planing away the remnants of the old floor chips..

the noggins.
Should they be the same height as the studs?
And then cut the bottom boards at each noggin?
Or should they be like 195 so you can get insulation underneath?

though it might be difficult to get it right and better with a stud all the way down?

You get a few less thermal bridges. But the question is if it is worth it as you write. Then 25mm isn't much to cheer about

 

[amoreex]

You get a few less thermal bridges. But the question is whether it's worth it as you write. Then 25mm isn't much to cheer about

No, that's kind of my thought:. Is the stud a thermal bridge? Is it perhaps better to just take a 120 block? And then get 100mm insulation underneath..

Today there's only a cross brace in each section..

 

[Tompafix]

no, that's kind of my thought:.
Is the rule a thermal bridge?
Would it be better to just use a 120 nog?
And then fit in 100mm insulation below..

Today, there is only a cross brace in each bay..

All through studs become thermal bridges. That's why insulation is laid crosswise in walls to break this. You could go with 170mm then you'd fit in a 45mm at least. The floor joists will still be thermal bridges. But there won’t be many places where you place nogs. So the difference will probably be minimal.

 

[amoreex]

All the continuous studs become thermal bridges. That’s why you crisscross the insulation in walls to break this. You can use 170mm, then you can fit in a 45mm at least. The floor joists will still be thermal bridges. But there won't be many places where you put noggins. So the difference will probably be minimal.

yeah okay!
However, I don’t have 45 insulation…
The floor consisted of 120 and 95mm insulation.

I'm considering replacing the insulation...
it is partly very full of sawdust.
And the boards that have been at the bottom are black where there have been joints in the floor-bottom boards...

 

[amoreex]

Now a rule is in place..
It was quite a wrestling match alone..

I have two questions..
The span is about 4 meters.
How many noggins should I use?
60cm apart or can I have around 100cm?


And for the ceiling boards, I will split the existing ones so they fit:
Reading the installation instructions today, it says to lay them as I have done but attach a type of batten to clamp them down...
Should I do that?

It hasn't been like that before; they've just been loose:
Right or wrong?

 

[AXS]

On pure instinct, I would go for 3 per length. It works well with one in the middle right inside the door where you walk the most.

 

[Tompafix]

Agree with @AXS