Check the moisture resistance carefully. Many types of filler are not moisture-resistant.
If it doesn't say that it is moisture-resistant, you can assume that it is not.
If it doesn't say that it is moisture-resistant, you can assume that it is not.
Keep in mind that leveling compound does not always become completely flat on its own. With cheaper products, you usually have to assist in making it flat. That is, you may get small annoying bumps that make it difficult to lay the tiles correctly later.
Thank you Martin,
I will be careful with this.
Regarding moisture resistance: According to the manufacturer, uniplan is "fuktskadasäkert," which means the material can handle moisture exposure if it can be dried out afterwards. Regarding basement floors, he said to be cautious with a waterproof floor covering. Tiles work very well. (but this applies to all basement floors.)
I will be careful with this.
Regarding moisture resistance: According to the manufacturer, uniplan is "fuktskadasäkert," which means the material can handle moisture exposure if it can be dried out afterwards. Regarding basement floors, he said to be cautious with a waterproof floor covering. Tiles work very well. (but this applies to all basement floors.)
Hello,
I poured in the first 14 bags (total 350 kg) today. It went incredibly well. It was just a matter of pouring it and then a little help with a trowel.
Now it needs to dry a bit, and then we’ll start with the tiles tomorrow. I hope it has time to dry out before then.
I poured in the first 14 bags (total 350 kg) today. It went incredibly well. It was just a matter of pouring it and then a little help with a trowel.
Now it needs to dry a bit, and then we’ll start with the tiles tomorrow. I hope it has time to dry out before then.
It actually doesn't make much difference whether you have tiles or a sealed mat in terms of how much moisture the filler needs to withstand. In both cases, it can easily be 100% relative humidity in the filler. I would never use a filler under tiles in a basement that couldn't withstand being under a plastic mat in the basement, or outdoors for that matter.oderooy said:
Yes, a certain amount of moisture will evaporate, only from the joints, but since moisture is constantly being added, the RH can very well reach near 100%.oderooy said:
And that's the thing, not all self-leveling compounds handle moisture as well as pure concrete. Pure concrete can lie in a lake for centuries without anything happening. The manufacturer of Uniplan clearly stated that the compound can't handle too high moisture. If you absolutely have to use a moisture-sensitive compound, then make sure, for God's sake, to get written confirmation that the manufacturer takes responsibility for the construction, so they cover the cost of redoing everything if it goes wrong.
Oh, I didn't see that you had already applied the self-leveling compound.. Sorry. I would have been a bit more careful with how I expressed myself, so as not to ruin your night's sleep. But talk to Mapei, and ask them to write an email or something.
I just read the product sheet. Should not be placed on concrete floors with an RH higher than 90%. And the tiles significantly hinder the drying compared to an open concrete surface, so the RH is guaranteed to rise after the tiles are laid. It is difficult to assess, so it is a gamble not to use a completely moisture-resistant filler. But now that you have already started, make sure, as mentioned, to get documentation on this before you proceed.