We built our own using one 145x22 and two 120x22 boards, which we nailed together with a brad nailer. Then we put up small framing pieces, 120x45, matching the inner width of the beam, on the ceiling and nailed the box to these. We then stained the beam. It turned out great. If you want a more worn look, you can hit the boards with a chain to give them a bit of damage.Bias said:
// Fredrik
They, and K-rauta, have fake, "rustic" ceiling beams in plastic (Polyurethane I would guess) I guess you do with them as with "plastic stucco", glue them with latex or similar. Very quick to install.sam said:
/Fredrik
At the bottom of this page there is a tip:
http://www.cjohnhebert.com/Festool Planer.htm
http://www.cjohnhebert.com/Festool Planer.htm
We bought our fake beams at a local sawmill and screwed them up with angle brackets (is that what they're called?) into the studs. The price was much more pleasant locally than at Bauhaus, around 50-60:-/m, but they weren't pre-dried. Here, you also get exactly the length you want!
Why not put up real beams?
Buy new ones, or as second-hand as you wish.
Difficult to find something that looks as authentic and probably cheaper.
After having looked at Bauhaus plastic beams, I can't understand why they look burnt. Do you want to simulate something to look old, or do you want it to look like the house has burned and you never took care of it?
/ Fredrik
Buy new ones, or as second-hand as you wish.
Difficult to find something that looks as authentic and probably cheaper.
After having looked at Bauhaus plastic beams, I can't understand why they look burnt. Do you want to simulate something to look old, or do you want it to look like the house has burned and you never took care of it?
/ Fredrik
Some people want to install spotlights or run cables, and it's easier if the beams are fake.Tornhill said:
Google "faux beams" and you get lots of inspiration and perspectives on how to make your own beams. Personally, I don't like K-Rauta's plastic beams.
Don't you destroy the feeling of "authenticity" if you install spotlights in the beams? If they were real beams, you'd be affecting the structural integrity of the entire ceiling if you made space for recessed spotlights. Or am I just a killjoy and shouldn't think so far ahead?isolde said:
One can build beams as frippen wrote. Then it's just a matter of glazing/staining them to the desired color. If you want them "nice" and planed, you can mill a profile into the edges, but the wood must be dry, or else it will crack. If you want an "old" style, you can work with non-dried wood (which will crack) and burn it with a propane torch/cutting torch and then use a steel brush to bring out rough grain (then glaze/stain).
But if you want to paint your beams white and the gaps to be dark/black, how do you do that? The beams are newly sawn so they are light now, even the gaps are light. The idea is for them to look authentic but for us to have painted them white. Tips?!
might be completely off here, but I was thinking about our ceiling we painted... before we painted, the gaps looked light, but after we painted, they look darker. can't it be that the shadows and the white paint on the ceiling highlight the gaps and make them look darker even though they aren't actually darker? might work in a similar way on the beams... just a thought! (though it might depend on how big the gaps are I just realized...)