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24 replies
31k views
24 replies
Epoxy floor in the workshop
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Hobby carpenter
· Västmanland
· 214 posts
So, I'm going to renovate my small workshop, replace the walls, rewire the electricity, and the plan was to also fix the floor. Currently, it's a somewhat rough cement floor. The idea was to clear everything out, brush and vacuum the floor thoroughly, and then apply epoxy.
But when you look on YouTube at epoxy floors and read about it on Swedish forums/sites, it seems different. On YouTube, which mainly has American videos, they mix epoxy and pour it onto the floor and use a squeegee to even it out. Meanwhile, here in Sweden, there's a lot written about "painting the floor with epoxy" where you mix and apply multiple coats. So what's the difference?
My thought was that it would work somewhat like self-leveling compound, meaning the result would be a relatively thick layer that is completely level, which feels important in a workshop. But if I only "paint" the floor in multiple coats, it probably won't be level, so how do I do it?
Biltema, as is known, has a two-component "epoxy paint" that should roll and is enough for 30 sqm for one coat, 15 sqm for two. But can I mix it in a double batch and then just pour it out and let it cure for a week or so? Or could something go wrong?
But when you look on YouTube at epoxy floors and read about it on Swedish forums/sites, it seems different. On YouTube, which mainly has American videos, they mix epoxy and pour it onto the floor and use a squeegee to even it out. Meanwhile, here in Sweden, there's a lot written about "painting the floor with epoxy" where you mix and apply multiple coats. So what's the difference?
My thought was that it would work somewhat like self-leveling compound, meaning the result would be a relatively thick layer that is completely level, which feels important in a workshop. But if I only "paint" the floor in multiple coats, it probably won't be level, so how do I do it?
Biltema, as is known, has a two-component "epoxy paint" that should roll and is enough for 30 sqm for one coat, 15 sqm for two. But can I mix it in a double batch and then just pour it out and let it cure for a week or so? Or could something go wrong?
Hobby carpenter
· Västmanland
· 214 posts
Bump!
No one with any experience of this?
No one with any experience of this?
Hobby carpenter
· Västmanland
· 214 posts
Hmmm, so it's different types of epoxy, in other words, ok... Yes, applying a self-leveling compound first might be an ideanino said:
Self-builder
· Stockholm
· 2 705 posts
Painted my garage floor with
Biltemas 2K floor paint, 2 coats covered nicely, a bit streaky with 1 coat but with the 2nd coat it turned out great. A friend did what I was thinking about and poured out 1 thick coat, his floor became matte and not glossy like mine (he then painted 1 more coat and it became glossy too).
Biltemas 2K floor paint, 2 coats covered nicely, a bit streaky with 1 coat but with the 2nd coat it turned out great. A friend did what I was thinking about and poured out 1 thick coat, his floor became matte and not glossy like mine (he then painted 1 more coat and it became glossy too).
Kan själv!
· Trelleborg
· 19 743 posts
I just painted my garage with paint from Nils Malmgren, epoxibutiken.se.
Two coats, the first coat primes. Use a mask, byggmax has one from 3M that works well.
My mistakes:
Didn't mix thoroughly enough so I got some color variations.
Spackled the whole thing by hand with husfix to fix small holes, suspect this created a film that doesn't adhere well to the concrete, the paint has peeled a bit after a month where the car is parked.
A matte floor might be due to high humidity in the room when it dried.
Two coats, the first coat primes. Use a mask, byggmax has one from 3M that works well.
My mistakes:
Didn't mix thoroughly enough so I got some color variations.
Spackled the whole thing by hand with husfix to fix small holes, suspect this created a film that doesn't adhere well to the concrete, the paint has peeled a bit after a month where the car is parked.
A matte floor might be due to high humidity in the room when it dried.
Hobby carpenter
· Västmanland
· 214 posts
Ok, yes, whether it's glossy or not doesn't really matter to me, so it works to pour it out in other words? Interestingsir_daniel said:Painted my garage floor with Biltema's 2K floor paint, 2 coats covered nicely, a bit streaky with 1 coat but with coat 2 it was great. A friend did what you were thinking and poured out 1 thick coat, his floor became matte and not glossy like mine (he then painted on 1 coat and it became glossy as well)
Kan själv!
· Trelleborg
· 19 743 posts
I believe most should be painted in two coats, as the first coat serves as a primer that prevents the floor from absorbing unevenly. Rolling it out is not particularly difficult.
You can buy epoxy to pour out, but it's almost more like self-leveling compound, and you need significantly larger quantities. Available on German eBay if you search a bit.
You can buy epoxy to pour out, but it's almost more like self-leveling compound, and you need significantly larger quantities. Available on German eBay if you search a bit.
Hobby carpenter
· Västmanland
· 214 posts
Ok, but if I buy Biltema's epoxy paint and mix a batch for one coat, and when it is dry and finished, I mix two-three more batches that I pour out? My thought is to achieve the self-leveling function here and that the "pouring" creates a floor that is completely level, which several coats in succession do not do.13th Marine said:
Kan själv!
· Trelleborg
· 19 743 posts
Even though these create a thin layer, you won't get the self-leveling screed effect.
Then you need to buy the other variant.
Then you need to buy the other variant.
available in various places in Sweden. For example, kitchens, workshops, trash roomsnino said:
Kan själv!
· Trelleborg
· 19 743 posts
I checked out this seller before buying from the epoxibutiken:
This is the equivalent of "thin" paint, all defects are visible.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epoxy-floor-coating-10kg-50m-SAMAFLOOR-BS98W-industrial-floor-/300878851842
They also have "thick" paint:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2K-Epoxidha...en-2mm-30kg-12qm-losemittelfrei-/290883368271
Compare the consumption, the first says 10l should cover 50sqm, while the latter says 30kg only covers 12sqm. That's ~0.2mm for the thin one and 2.5mm for the thick one.
This is the equivalent of "thin" paint, all defects are visible.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Epoxy-floor-coating-10kg-50m-SAMAFLOOR-BS98W-industrial-floor-/300878851842
They also have "thick" paint:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2K-Epoxidha...en-2mm-30kg-12qm-losemittelfrei-/290883368271
Compare the consumption, the first says 10l should cover 50sqm, while the latter says 30kg only covers 12sqm. That's ~0.2mm for the thin one and 2.5mm for the thick one.
many of the companies that deal with seamless floors have a lot to do. call and ask so maybe they don't have time for the job, but can sell the materials.SandmanNet said:Ok, but if I buy Biltema's epoxy paint, and mix a batch for one coat, and when it is dry and complete, I mix two-three more batches that I pour out? My idea is to achieve the self-leveling function here and that the "pouring" creates a floor that is completely level, which several coats in succession do not achieve.
I paid around 700kr per can plus color sand.13th Marine said:I checked out this seller before I bought from epoxibutiken:
It's equivalent to "thin" paint, all defects are visible.
[link]
They also have "thick" paint:
[link]
Compare the consumption, the first one requires 10l for 50sqm, while the latter requires 30kg for only 12sqm. It results in ~0.2mm for the thin one, and 2.5mm for the thick one.
I had priming, running which was rolled. But then there was filler.
Roller, filler, and a spoon were the tools I needed.
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