Hi,
We live in a typical 70s house. I'm about to start putting drywall over Tretex boards, but I'm a bit concerned. Here, the distance between the studs is 120 cm (is this common?), which raises some questions. Namely: I assume that the seams on the drywall panels should be staggered in relation to the seams on the Tretex boards. This means that I actually only get a proper anchoring point for the drywall panels (the stud), and both outer edges will only have Tretex behind them. Will this hold? If not, what should I do?
All the best,
Marcus
We live in a typical 70s house. I'm about to start putting drywall over Tretex boards, but I'm a bit concerned. Here, the distance between the studs is 120 cm (is this common?), which raises some questions. Namely: I assume that the seams on the drywall panels should be staggered in relation to the seams on the Tretex boards. This means that I actually only get a proper anchoring point for the drywall panels (the stud), and both outer edges will only have Tretex behind them. Will this hold? If not, what should I do?
All the best,
Marcus
Doubtful, it seems like there's a high risk of cracking, although it might work if you glue the plaster properly in the middle of the tretex.
I see two options:
1: tear down the tretex and install new studs at c/c 60, then plasterboard
2: mount horizontal battens on the outside of the tretex and then mount the plasterboards horizontally so you can screw the long sides into the new battens
The first option is more work but likely gives the best result. The second option can be just as good but will steal a bit of floor space, and you'll need to practice smoothing unfaded joints.
I see two options:
1: tear down the tretex and install new studs at c/c 60, then plasterboard
2: mount horizontal battens on the outside of the tretex and then mount the plasterboards horizontally so you can screw the long sides into the new battens
The first option is more work but likely gives the best result. The second option can be just as good but will steal a bit of floor space, and you'll need to practice smoothing unfaded joints.
Hi!zarkov said:
Thanks for the answer.
1. Is definitely an option. However, I had hoped for a simple project 😂
2. What thickness of battens do you think would be sufficient? One of the spaces being re-plastered is a child's room, which is already small, so I naturally want to save the floor space as much as possible.
Hey there!F fribygg said:
Thanks for the response.
One of the rooms being re-drywalled is a child's room, which is already small as it is. Unfortunately, this solution would take up a bit too much space.
Upon a closer inspection of the walls, there seem to be plenty of noggins inside them! I'm thinking of utilizing these. I have no other method to find studs than to knock – and they seem to be placed at 60 cm centers according to my ears. You don't happen to know if there was any standard for this in the 70s? 😂
Yes, it is probably c/c 60cm. 120 cm with just a thin Tretex feels quite daring.M MarcusNils said:
The Tretex is likely nailed to the studs, so you can use a stronger magnet to find the nails, or knock your way through and then test screw. Don't forget to mark the studs in a way that you can see even after you've put the drywall up, for example on masking tape on the ceiling and floor.
Thought, isn't it a HultsfredsHus? They manufactured walls with fiberplank, and the stud parts could be spaced down to 30 cm with tretex boards.
I've put drywall directly on similar walls where there was tretex as the surface material, just have to find where it's screwable with a stud finder.
If it is a HultsfredsHus, you have a bit of history here and there are also threads in the forum about it.
https://lokalaplatser.se/story/fiberplank/
I've put drywall directly on similar walls where there was tretex as the surface material, just have to find where it's screwable with a stud finder.
If it is a HultsfredsHus, you have a bit of history here and there are also threads in the forum about it.
https://lokalaplatser.se/story/fiberplank/