Hello,
I installed the door frame left-hinged even though it is right-hinged, should it really make any difference? Now the door can be closed, but the part of the door that should click into the door frame misses by about 1 cm....
There isn't room to adjust the door 1 cm in any direction when it's closed, so the construction should be correct, I feel, but something seems to be really wrong.
I have tried adjusting the door frame but only achieve a 2/3 cm difference...
The door I have is: http://www.kompanjonen.se/produkter/innerdorr-dooria---8x21-30db-hh-ljusgra
I installed the door frame left-hinged even though it is right-hinged, should it really make any difference? Now the door can be closed, but the part of the door that should click into the door frame misses by about 1 cm....
There isn't room to adjust the door 1 cm in any direction when it's closed, so the construction should be correct, I feel, but something seems to be really wrong.
I have tried adjusting the door frame but only achieve a 2/3 cm difference...
The door I have is: http://www.kompanjonen.se/produkter/innerdorr-dooria---8x21-30db-hh-ljusgra
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The door leaf is the door itself, I assume (I am very new to everything about construction and craftsmanship)? No, it is completely correct; hanging it upside down would never work. The only difference I saw between left-hung and right-hung would be that everything was rotated 180 degrees, which in itself shouldn't make any difference at all?
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Sorry for so many threads, I'm trying to get everything to work despite my poor knowledge and would love to learn at the same time.
Picture of how the door looks closed (apologies for the quality, I only have a very bad camera)
Picture of how it looks where the door is supposed to lock
I couldn't take a picture right where the problem was because it was too dark and wouldn't be visible, but anyway, the door misses the hole where it is supposed to latch onto the door frame by about 1 cm down, despite this, the door closes as it should in all other places.
Reversing the hanging wouldn't work as the door would fall right to the floor, plus the text on the door by the lock is currently right-side up.
Picture of how the door looks closed (apologies for the quality, I only have a very bad camera)
Picture of how it looks where the door is supposed to lock
I couldn't take a picture right where the problem was because it was too dark and wouldn't be visible, but anyway, the door misses the hole where it is supposed to latch onto the door frame by about 1 cm down, despite this, the door closes as it should in all other places.
Reversing the hanging wouldn't work as the door would fall right to the floor, plus the text on the door by the lock is currently right-side up.
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Well, I can adjust the frame so that it seals more all around, but the distance that's missing is still about 1 cm, albeit slightly less...
Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
Read through this.
http://pubsys.kooper.se/dooria2011/...rige/Monteringsanvisning_innerdorr_SWE_NY.pdf
Sit down and consider how the frame sleeves move each side of the frame. On the hinge side, the door is also affected when you tilt the frame up and down. Do not screw at random (I've done that) it becomes too complicated with 8 different screws.
http://pubsys.kooper.se/dooria2011/...rige/Monteringsanvisning_innerdorr_SWE_NY.pdf
Sit down and consider how the frame sleeves move each side of the frame. On the hinge side, the door is also affected when you tilt the frame up and down. Do not screw at random (I've done that) it becomes too complicated with 8 different screws.
Thank you for the file.
I have tried to make some adjustments that I thought would fix it, and I have noticed a few problems. Firstly, the lintel seems to be slightly too long, creating a small gap in the upper corner of the door where you can see straight through (it doesn't seal properly there). Also, the bottom hinge bush on the opposite side of the hinges is broken (it was like that when I received the door), so it cannot be adjusted correctly and accurately.
Edit: I think I now see what might be the problem, I believe there is too little distance between the frame and the stud on one side as the stud is slightly askew. When you look at the door as it closes, you can see that the gap between the door and the lower hinge is smaller than the gap between the door and the upper hinge on the door.
I have tried to make some adjustments that I thought would fix it, and I have noticed a few problems. Firstly, the lintel seems to be slightly too long, creating a small gap in the upper corner of the door where you can see straight through (it doesn't seal properly there). Also, the bottom hinge bush on the opposite side of the hinges is broken (it was like that when I received the door), so it cannot be adjusted correctly and accurately.
Edit: I think I now see what might be the problem, I believe there is too little distance between the frame and the stud on one side as the stud is slightly askew. When you look at the door as it closes, you can see that the gap between the door and the lower hinge is smaller than the gap between the door and the upper hinge on the door.
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Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
There should be space between the frame and the stud on both sides. The door frame essentially hangs only on the frame screws/frame sleeves. For exterior doors/windows, it is a requirement to be able to insulate from both sides (I usually aim for 1.5 cm per side). But I would also insulate indoors to reduce sound.
How large is the hole in the wall? If you have, for example, a 9x21 door, the hole in the wall (between the studs) should be 900mmX2100mm.
If a frame sleeve is broken, I would probably remove the frame and insert a new one (they are available in different lengths so you need to check that it seems to fit). If a hole is too worn for a frame screw, just drill a new Ø14mm hole slightly away from it (no one thinks about a few extra plastic plugs on the finished door).
Do you have sleeves or screws? Sleeves are recommended since you can screw back and forth almost as much as you want without the wooden hole you drilled becoming too large/worn.
In short, how I would install a door (straight from the heart, so steps might be missing, or I might remember incorrectly), assuming the hole is the right size. If it's too small, I would buy a smaller door; if it's too large, add more studs. As mentioned, there are different lengths of frame sleeves, and you want quite a few threads to engage in the frame, but at the same time, it must not stick out into the door hole:
Keep at it! Next time a door/window needs to be installed, it will go twice as fast.
The threshold, by the way. Is there something to screw it into? Remember to pre-drill (same size hole as the screw, the thread grips what's below) and countersink so it doesn't crack.
There are some clips to check out (probably much more on YouTube)
http://www.mittnyahus.tv/hur-goer-snickaren/item/144-montering-av-innerdorr
http://www.mittnyahus.tv/hur-goer-snickaren/item/13-montering-av-trafonster
How large is the hole in the wall? If you have, for example, a 9x21 door, the hole in the wall (between the studs) should be 900mmX2100mm.
If a frame sleeve is broken, I would probably remove the frame and insert a new one (they are available in different lengths so you need to check that it seems to fit). If a hole is too worn for a frame screw, just drill a new Ø14mm hole slightly away from it (no one thinks about a few extra plastic plugs on the finished door).
Do you have sleeves or screws? Sleeves are recommended since you can screw back and forth almost as much as you want without the wooden hole you drilled becoming too large/worn.
In short, how I would install a door (straight from the heart, so steps might be missing, or I might remember incorrectly), assuming the hole is the right size. If it's too small, I would buy a smaller door; if it's too large, add more studs. As mentioned, there are different lengths of frame sleeves, and you want quite a few threads to engage in the frame, but at the same time, it must not stick out into the door hole:
- Drill Ø14mm holes in the sidepieces (4 on each side) and install frame sleeves. Drill from the varnished side as it tends to crack when you break through, or mount a sacrificial piece with a clamp.
- Set up the frame side with the hinges and adjust so that it is about 1.5 cm from the wall (if the hole is the correct size, otherwise you have to compensate).
- Take the level and check that the frame isn't leaning outward or inward (as seen from the room) ***important to keep it straight, hard to reinstall as the screw tends to go into the old holes*** and install the screws (tighten). Hopefully, the frame is not leaning inward or outward from the room now, check measurements.
- Check that the frame side is straight (level) inward or outward in the door hole itself. If not, compensate using the frame sleeves (loosen the screw first). Now it should be straight in both directions.
- Hang the door.
- Insert the threshold and the headpiece.
- Install the other frame side (vertical in both directions).
- Close the door and check where gaps occur between the door and the frame (note that no part of the side frame pieces should be in contact with the wall/studs).
- Now the adjustment begins... if the door seems to lean in some direction, adjust with the frame that has hinges to lift the door (frame sleeves). Then you adjust the gap between the door and the frame (lock side) using the frame sleeves.
- I've seen that you can cross-measure to check that the frame is square, but that's where my mental capacity ended, and I assume I've been lucky not needing it.
Keep at it! Next time a door/window needs to be installed, it will go twice as fast.
The threshold, by the way. Is there something to screw it into? Remember to pre-drill (same size hole as the screw, the thread grips what's below) and countersink so it doesn't crack.
There are some clips to check out (probably much more on YouTube)
http://www.mittnyahus.tv/hur-goer-snickaren/item/144-montering-av-innerdorr
http://www.mittnyahus.tv/hur-goer-snickaren/item/13-montering-av-trafonster
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Member
· Stockholms Län
· 702 posts
Edit: Just remembered something... you probably assemble the frame (side and top piece) first, I recall. But the basic idea is to secure only the hinge side first, hang the door, and then fasten the lock side.
Is the top piece horizontal?
It feels like one of the frames is sitting higher up than the other!?
Assuming the frames are already vertical.
It feels like one of the frames is sitting higher up than the other!?
Assuming the frames are already vertical.