Hi
The carpenter building our bathroom has installed a vapor barrier (plastic film) behind the sparse paneling and plasterboard on the exterior wall in our new bathroom. The waterproofing layer will be applied on top of this.
---EDIT---
Poorly phrased by me. From inside to outside, this will be the arrangement on this wall, which is actually a steeply sloping roof:
Tiles
Adhesive
Waterproofing layer
Plasterboard
Sparse paneling
Vapor barrier
Framework
Sheathing
Roofing felt
Roof batten
Concrete tiles
---EDIT---
This results in organic material (the sparse paneling) being trapped between two vapor-tight layers, and any moisture can never escape. I thought this was rule 1A not to violate.
Am I wrong? Do I need to stop the carpenter before he proceeds?
The carpenter building our bathroom has installed a vapor barrier (plastic film) behind the sparse paneling and plasterboard on the exterior wall in our new bathroom. The waterproofing layer will be applied on top of this.
---EDIT---
Poorly phrased by me. From inside to outside, this will be the arrangement on this wall, which is actually a steeply sloping roof:
Tiles
Adhesive
Waterproofing layer
Plasterboard
Sparse paneling
Vapor barrier
Framework
Sheathing
Roofing felt
Roof batten
Concrete tiles
---EDIT---
This results in organic material (the sparse paneling) being trapped between two vapor-tight layers, and any moisture can never escape. I thought this was rule 1A not to violate.
Am I wrong? Do I need to stop the carpenter before he proceeds?
No, it won't be too tight, on the contrary in my opinion, the wall can breathe through the wooden panel, and then further out into the air...
I see it,,, and I think it looks good anyway,,,, Although it might sound a bit redundant....
But I don't understand what you mean by the wall being able to breathe out. The material between the two layers of waterproofing can't breathe out anywhere, all moisture gets trapped.
I once covered a chipboard with plastic on both sides and installed it as a temporary (...) window and left it in place for too long. After about a year, almost the entire board was completely moldy inside the plastic.
I once covered a chipboard with plastic on both sides and installed it as a temporary (...) window and left it in place for too long. After about a year, almost the entire board was completely moldy inside the plastic.
From what I can see, you only have plastic on one side. You mention a waterproofing layer, is that the Primer? If so, it shouldn't be a problem. The tiles and grout let through the same way as the primer from one side... so it shouldn't be an issue from what I can see. However, if any other carpenters see this post, please feel free to provide input...
Still don't see it as a problem but as a normal procedure.....
phulden
There should not be a vapor barrier if there is a waterproof membrane. And since you are going to have tiles, you should have a waterproof membrane. I also recommend not using gypsum boards, but instead screw up a cement-based board. There can be problems with gypsum boards in a wet room with tiles. What happens is that water and moisture get into the joints and settle in the adhesive. It doesn't dry out there, but eventually, it penetrates the waterproof membrane, and that's when the gypsum board gets damaged. It's on the paper of the gypsum board that mold begins to grow. If you also have a vapor barrier, the moisture doesn't have anywhere to go. Many insurance companies now believe this will become the next big damage cost in line with the strong rise in the popularity of tiles. Even those of us who are involved in inspections and training (I am a certified building-residential instructor by the National Board of Housing, Building and Planning) see tendencies in that direction.
Have a chat with your carpenter, and feel free to write his comments here on the forum.
Good luck/Tartan
There should not be a vapor barrier if there is a waterproof membrane. And since you are going to have tiles, you should have a waterproof membrane. I also recommend not using gypsum boards, but instead screw up a cement-based board. There can be problems with gypsum boards in a wet room with tiles. What happens is that water and moisture get into the joints and settle in the adhesive. It doesn't dry out there, but eventually, it penetrates the waterproof membrane, and that's when the gypsum board gets damaged. It's on the paper of the gypsum board that mold begins to grow. If you also have a vapor barrier, the moisture doesn't have anywhere to go. Many insurance companies now believe this will become the next big damage cost in line with the strong rise in the popularity of tiles. Even those of us who are involved in inspections and training (I am a certified building-residential instructor by the National Board of Housing, Building and Planning) see tendencies in that direction.
Have a chat with your carpenter, and feel free to write his comments here on the forum.
Good luck/Tartan
Finally, we received new findings,,,, as an old carpenter, we used to build the way their carpenters do..... thank you... phulden..
Standard for how we built was,,,, exterior cladding, asfaboard, framework + insulation, plastic (vapor barrier), 2 layers of drywall, wallpaper... Assuming that as the basic construction.
Then if a wet room was against an outer wall, it was primer, tile adhesive, and finally tiles...
I based my assessment on that basic construction.
Then if a wet room was against an outer wall, it was primer, tile adhesive, and finally tiles...
I based my assessment on that basic construction.
OK. The "problem" is that primer is not approved as a waterproofing layer; it's just something that increases the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the drywall. Waterproofing behind tiles usually consists of rolled rubber compound.
Very interesting topic that you bring up in this thread. I think you should read up and update yourself more on Matakis diffusion open systems that breathe and have similar properties to Gortex, namely Halotex.
http://www.mataki.se/mataki/documents/broschyrer/halotex.pdf
When it comes to bathroom exterior walls where there is a risk of double waterproof layers; Rubber membrane and ÅB-plastic film. You should instead use a retarding layer Halotex D50, which allows moisture to "breathe" out through the construction.
http://www.mataki.se/mataki/documents/broschyrer/halotex.pdf
When it comes to bathroom exterior walls where there is a risk of double waterproof layers; Rubber membrane and ÅB-plastic film. You should instead use a retarding layer Halotex D50, which allows moisture to "breathe" out through the construction.