The price is, of course, the only advantage with YAM, but since the underlay is not really needed and is more of a security before and during installation, it's obviously good that it becomes as cheap as possible for the customer.mattiasp said:
Then my opinion is that underlay paper does not need to CONTINUE to be manufactured as there are always better alternatives. They can keep YAM solely for waterproofing where a poor material is acceptable
YAM has a fiberglass frame and YAP has a polyester frame, that it would make it better in practice than, for example, papp is not something I've noticed in my years in the industry, but it is easy to tear. But maybe it has to do with some classification.
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Why?H Huzzbutt said:
Treetex is a very good material to nail directly onto a log wall. It's not possible to nail plasterboard or other hard panel materials onto an uneven log wall.
But using treetex directly on a stud frame is pure idiocy, and maybe that's what you have experienced.
I also like treetex as a substrate for surface layers. It works well as heimlaga writes for log walls and perhaps primarily for plank walls. The advantage of treetex is that it insulates and has a value roughly like minderalull if I remember correctly. At the same time, the treetex is acoustically dampening. From a fire safety standpoint, treetex is of course worse than plasterboard. Another disadvantage is that it is easier to get pressure marks in a surface layer with treetex behind than with plasterboard. But otherwise, I see only advantages with it, provided it is on a plank wall or another solid wall.H heimlaga said:
I have probably never seen treetex on a stud wall, but maybe there are examples of that?
The fiberboard has a lambda around 0.05 if I remember correctly. So a 12mm treetex is roughly equivalent to 8-9mm mineral wool. The question is whether this has any practical significance from an insulation perspective?
However, it might work as a wind barrier inside a semi-tight timber/plank frame and be beneficial in that way?
However, it might work as a wind barrier inside a semi-tight timber/plank frame and be beneficial in that way?
My house is insulated with three Treetex boards on top of each other.
Yes, that seems fairly accurate.useless said:
The following text is from a description of Hunton's asfaboard (asfaboard is basically the same as treetext but treated to withstand moisture, and aside from the harder surface)
"12 mm Vindtät is almost equivalent to 10 mm of regular insulation, which means a reduction in U-value of 0.01W/m2K."
Source: https://hunton.se/produkter/vagg/hunton-vindtat/
Latexfog. I claim that if you need latexfog, you've done something wrong.
How do you make neat "joints/seams" in e.g., reveals, baseboards, crown moldings, etc.?
Caulk is absolutely amazing!
Caulk is absolutely amazing!
One wonders how carpenters managed before latex caulk was invented. As mentioned, if you need latex caulk, you've done something wrong.TotalControl said:
How should one do it correctly then?
Please show an image where it is done "correctly".
Please show an image where it is done "correctly".
hsd
Member
· Kalmar län, Östra Götaland
· 7 167 posts
hsd
Member
- Kalmar län, Östra Götaland
- 7,167 posts
PuttyA Andreas12345 said:One wonders how the carpenters managed before latex caulk was invented. As mentioned, if you need latex caulk, you've done something wrong.
Have you been inside a house that hasn't been renovated since the 1940s? I promise there are imperfections in the finish.A Andreas12345 said:You wonder how carpenters used to do it before latex caulk was invented. As mentioned, if you need latex caulk, you've done something wrong.
Yes, many imperfections occur due to the passage of time, but how do you know that a newly built house in 1942 had a perfect finish?