Hi, this fall I plan to furnish the upper floor of an Älvsbyhus. According to recommendations from Älvsbyhus, you should install an air gap of about 45mm, then put up a board, either regular or oil-hardened, it's unclear. Since Älvsbyhus has chosen to have their trusses at wider intervals than the standard cc120, not much fits.
I then checked with Bison about using their wind barrier paper instead of oil-hardened board. They considered it would work well since it has the correct vapor density and is water-repellent and windproof.
What do you think? It would save a tremendous amount of time to attach a film instead of many small pieces of board, as it is no wider than 1220, resulting in about 4-5 pieces per section.
I then checked with Bison about using their wind barrier paper instead of oil-hardened board. They considered it would work well since it has the correct vapor density and is water-repellent and windproof.
What do you think? It would save a tremendous amount of time to attach a film instead of many small pieces of board, as it is no wider than 1220, resulting in about 4-5 pieces per section.
This might help you along the way: http://alvsbyhus.forum24.se/alvsbyhus-about3285.html
Recently finished our upstairs and I used Masonite boards.
Very simple, it was just the rafters in the corners that were larger than 120.
The others were several smaller ones, so just cut the Masonite.
The downside I can think of with some film/fabric is that it might be pressed up against the outer roof?
If you use loose-fill insulation, they fill it up until it stops in the sloping roof.
Using Masonite is my tip, simple and probably the cheapest option.
Very simple, it was just the rafters in the corners that were larger than 120.
The others were several smaller ones, so just cut the Masonite.
The downside I can think of with some film/fabric is that it might be pressed up against the outer roof?
If you use loose-fill insulation, they fill it up until it stops in the sloping roof.
Using Masonite is my tip, simple and probably the cheapest option.
I used T-vind fabric on the ceiling when I built my garage. However, there was a problem with the insulation pressing the fabric up against the sheathing in some places. So I had to go back and insert battens between the rafters to create the air gap. I'm working on the roof of the house now, here it will be masonite.
Unfortunately, in the new houses by Älvsbyhus, there isn't a single compartment that is cc120; it varies between cc137 to cc140. If it were just a few compartments that needed to be saddled down or a Masonite board cut, it wouldn't be a problem, but now it has to be done on the entire roof. If I were to use a slightly thicker wind barrier, then I would not use loose fill but regular stone wool/glass fiber.
It doesn't really get harder if they are 137 or 140 with masonite though scraps can be salvaged too.
You do put a 45 mm stud on each side, but you should also have one in the middle.
Cut a sheet 140, set it up, the next one will be 1 meter, and it's joined with the middle stud.
The middle stud won't be exactly in the middle, but what does that matter.
So the next sheet is cut to 40 cm, the next 140, then there's 60 "left" which is cut down to 40, and so on
.
Then there's only a scrap piece of 20 cm you throw away on every other sheet.
Isn't that perfectly acceptable waste?
You do put a 45 mm stud on each side, but you should also have one in the middle.
Cut a sheet 140, set it up, the next one will be 1 meter, and it's joined with the middle stud.
The middle stud won't be exactly in the middle, but what does that matter.
So the next sheet is cut to 40 cm, the next 140, then there's 60 "left" which is cut down to 40, and so on
. Then there's only a scrap piece of 20 cm you throw away on every other sheet.
Isn't that perfectly acceptable waste?
No, I agree, don't nail through the plastic.
I fastened the middle rule by screwing the masonite to the middle rule with drywall screws before putting up the board.
This allows the masonite to bend a bit until the insulation is in place.
I'm thinking about what happens the day the outer roof needs to be replaced with battens and underlayment?
When there are a bunch of screws/nails from underneath... it's going to be a real pain to get them loose, one might guess.
I fastened the middle rule by screwing the masonite to the middle rule with drywall screws before putting up the board.
This allows the masonite to bend a bit until the insulation is in place.
I'm thinking about what happens the day the outer roof needs to be replaced with battens and underlayment?
When there are a bunch of screws/nails from underneath... it's going to be a real pain to get them loose, one might guess.