OT definitely but: damn, I could redo the drainage with a sand vacuum then. Now I'm hand-digging (alone) down to about 270 cm deep. It's just sand so it's easy to dig, but you can't pile the fill next to the hole because it keeps collapsing, so it has to be carted away with a wheelbarrow. I can tell you that you get strong arms from filling a wheelbarrow from the bottom of the hole.Gaude said:
There - finished whining!
Best regards,
Ronnie
After I have extended the wall from underneath with two layers of leca, I will dig around the house. A wheeled excavator has been ordered to "munch" around the house in one day. I have the same "problem," only sand wherever I dig, so it collapses easily. Afterwards, pordrän and drainage pipe. I have also ordered 4 loads of 8-16 for refill. Quite a lot of work, but it will be spot on when it's done. At the same time, I will also replace the pipes and water hose to the house.
However, I don't know how much can be excavated under the existing wall without increasing the risk of settlement, given that it's just a segmented wall resting on sand. Suggestions are gratefully received...
However, I don't know how much can be excavated under the existing wall without increasing the risk of settlement, given that it's just a segmented wall resting on sand. Suggestions are gratefully received...
Yep, hammering was what I originally had in mind. But it's a heck of a job... that concrete saw sounded so much more convenient...Fasting65 said:
4 grand for a blade... jeez... yeah, it's probably a diamond-equipped titanium blade and probably some gold plating in the center hole so 4 grand is probably justified.
moddha said:sounds really nice!! my local rental service offers this: 3422 Floor saw, concrete, cut depth 170 mm, 3-phase ................................................................ 350 kr 3423 Floor saw, concrete, cut depth 320 mm, 3-phase ................................................................ 470 kr
how long did it take you to saw?
I comparatively have "only"
roughly how big should the squares be? and how do you proceed? saw the whole floor in a grid first and then remove it?
which machine is best suited, do you think? 170mm should work excellently for my '70s foundation. maybe I'll need to put the drill hammer to the floor first to measure the thickness...
There was never any rebar in the floors we've done. And maybe between 50-80 mm thick. Cut the grid as you say, quite small squares otherwise you'll get tired quickly and rent a transporter to send it through a window. Saw everything at once. Then you can return the saw the next day. What you miss can be broken away or use uncle sledgehammer. And rent a saw with water cooling and electricity
I've used a gas-powered saw occasionally and you get tired in the head quickly A grinder with a diamond disc I think works poorly, everyone who's tried to cut knows how much it dusts.we cut 220 sqm in one day. Then it took a little longer to carry it out. It was a while ago since we did something like that, it was when one was young and dumb. (poor student)
haha, it sounds more like you were young and smart!Henrik1234 said:we cut 220sqm in one day. Then it took a little longer to carry out. Now it was a while ago since we did something like that when one was young and dumb. (poor student)
cut in one day and get beautifully cut sugar cubes model grosse versus weeks of toil with the jackhammer and a lot of crumbs....... if you did 220sqm in one day then I should manage my 35sqm in a couple of hours, unless I have reinforcement dårnå...but you had no reinforcement! how old was/is your house?
look! http://www.hyres-maskiner.se/T83-9.htm
concrete saw "Adapted for sawing work in armerade concrete floors, elements, etc"!! yei...! then surely most are capable of the same. it is supposed to be a diamond blade, and you have to buy that when renting (understandably)...but I have (yet) not found an exact price. but it seems to be around 3000-5000 bucks each......huvvaliiiigen....
concrete saw "Adapted for sawing work in armerade concrete floors, elements, etc"!! yei...! then surely most are capable of the same. it is supposed to be a diamond blade, and you have to buy that when renting (understandably)...but I have (yet) not found an exact price. but it seems to be around 3000-5000 bucks each......huvvaliiiigen....
you know no one who works as a ground worker? they usually have gasoline-powered to cut garden tiles asphalt etc you can borrow for a little money without receipts .
.if you are going to break up an entire basement, 3000 still feels like a drop in the ocean....read in a magazine where they had rented a conveyor belt that they extended through the basement window to transport all the broken-up floor out....might be worth it if you don't want to get a broken back in return...
/
M
....read in a magazine where they had rented a conveyor belt that they extended through the basement window to transport all the broken-up floor out....might be worth it if you don't want to get a broken back in return.../
M
Well then... let's go with that!! I probably don't need a conveyor belt, I have no windows in the rooms where the digging is to be done. But the house is a split-level, so there's a door in a room nearby where you can wheel a wheelbarrow through...
I probably don't need a conveyor belt, I have no windows in the rooms where the digging is to be done. But the house is a split-level, so there's a door in a room nearby where you can wheel a wheelbarrow through...Rent a 130mm blade that operates on 240 volts, cut the floors into pieces measuring 60 x 90cm.
When all the floors are cut, start from the farthest point from the exit and load the pieces onto a dolly, loading continuously away from the door you use, so you can use the smooth floor until the end.
Once everything is out, check the height of the sill (usually about 30 cm below concrete), and if the 20 cm extra provided is sufficient without adjusting the sill, expose the basement down to the sill and compact a thinner 8-16 layer with a 220 kilo compactor.
Then lay out 80mm of foam insulation, place underfloor heating in the foam, and either pour or skim the last 20mm to cover the underfloor heating, then plastic and parquet—done.
If you also want to lower the sill for a really good ceiling height, it's much tougher and requires determination and patience, but it's possible.
You have to start by digging fairly deep holes under the sill, the holes should be 1 meter deep & 1 x 1 in diameter, doing this at roughly 2.5 meters intervals along the entire load-bearing sill in the basement.
Then foundation/drain each hole with about 10-15cm of 8-16 macadam and compact thoroughly, place 3 layers of 100mm 100s foam insulation & reinforce with 12 10mm iron rods placed alternately, and pour with regular coarse concrete k40 a 150mm thick slab.
Starting from the slab you poured, build upwards with concrete blocks until you meet the old house structure’s stone, build up from all newly poured slabs, and eventually encircle the entire sill so the house is supported by your new bearing points.
From there, you can remove the remaining sill, bring in Ragnsells vacuum truck to suck out most of the sand/soil, drains the rest of the basement with about 10-15cm of 8-16 macadam and pack well, then foam insulation 3 x 100mm s80 or s100 plus 15 cm concrete, and then build up the remaining walls from the new casting and meet the old.
And presto, you have 240 cm throughout the basement.
Best regards,
Jawen
When all the floors are cut, start from the farthest point from the exit and load the pieces onto a dolly, loading continuously away from the door you use, so you can use the smooth floor until the end.
Once everything is out, check the height of the sill (usually about 30 cm below concrete), and if the 20 cm extra provided is sufficient without adjusting the sill, expose the basement down to the sill and compact a thinner 8-16 layer with a 220 kilo compactor.
Then lay out 80mm of foam insulation, place underfloor heating in the foam, and either pour or skim the last 20mm to cover the underfloor heating, then plastic and parquet—done.
If you also want to lower the sill for a really good ceiling height, it's much tougher and requires determination and patience, but it's possible.
You have to start by digging fairly deep holes under the sill, the holes should be 1 meter deep & 1 x 1 in diameter, doing this at roughly 2.5 meters intervals along the entire load-bearing sill in the basement.
Then foundation/drain each hole with about 10-15cm of 8-16 macadam and compact thoroughly, place 3 layers of 100mm 100s foam insulation & reinforce with 12 10mm iron rods placed alternately, and pour with regular coarse concrete k40 a 150mm thick slab.
Starting from the slab you poured, build upwards with concrete blocks until you meet the old house structure’s stone, build up from all newly poured slabs, and eventually encircle the entire sill so the house is supported by your new bearing points.
From there, you can remove the remaining sill, bring in Ragnsells vacuum truck to suck out most of the sand/soil, drains the rest of the basement with about 10-15cm of 8-16 macadam and pack well, then foam insulation 3 x 100mm s80 or s100 plus 15 cm concrete, and then build up the remaining walls from the new casting and meet the old.
And presto, you have 240 cm throughout the basement.
Best regards,
Jawen
When it comes to the costs of a diamond blade, I recall that the wear cost is about 2,000 kr excluding VAT per mm. Then there's the rental for the saw. Buying a new blade in the size of 300-400 mm, I'd guess, is around 6,000 kr excluding VAT. If the slab is about 100 mm thick, the blade needs to be at least 300 mm in diameter since the center mount means you can't use the entire radius. There is no problem cutting through reinforcement or similar, but rent a water-cooled saw with a properly adjusted blade, otherwise you'll be cleaning dust throughout the house until you're ready to sell the place. When and if you need to use a jackhammer, spend plenty of time taping and covering up to prevent the dust from spreading to the rest of the house. Dust has an amazing ability to spread. A really smart thing to do is to rent a dust trap and place it in the room with an exhaust leading outside the house. It handles a large portion of the dust and creates a slight vacuum in the basement so the dust doesn't sneak up into the house.