There is a risk that that wall is load-bearing as it is perpendicular to the roof truss and additionally the only wall that is. The roof trusses are therefore likely resting on it. However, it is best to hire a structural engineer to look at the whole situation.
A sneaky way you can confirm if it IS load-bearing is to put the "fosvansen" in it, if the saw pinches and gets stuck you might consider it load-bearing.
NOTE just because the saw doesn't get stuck is no proof that it isn't load-bearing!
As mentioned above, contact a structural engineer.
NOTE just because the saw doesn't get stuck is no proof that it isn't load-bearing!
As mentioned above, contact a structural engineer.
Headlamp it was a very uncertain way.
I might need to apologize for my post not being clearer, of course, this is a bad way to do it and not recommended.
My post was more meant as if you're starting to saw into a wall that you've confirmed isn't load-bearing and the beam clamps the saw, you should stop and reconsider.
I had an acquaintance who was going to take down a wall that was certified by a carpenter with many years in the industry as non-load-bearing, and this happened to him.
But as I also said, contact a structural engineer, they know about these things.
My post was more meant as if you're starting to saw into a wall that you've confirmed isn't load-bearing and the beam clamps the saw, you should stop and reconsider.
I had an acquaintance who was going to take down a wall that was certified by a carpenter with many years in the industry as non-load-bearing, and this happened to him.
But as I also said, contact a structural engineer, they know about these things.
Do you have any other drawings of the house? How does the ceiling look? Can you determine if it is whole boards since you usually do the ceiling first and the walls afterward? You can measure the thickness; if the wall is only a surface layer + 70mm + surface layer about 96 mm + wallpaper, then it is likely not a load-bearing wall. Alternatively, you can try to calculate the roof truss construction/dimension in relation to the width of the house. But if the house width is around 7 m, it is very likely that the wall is load-bearing. However, if you look at the drawing in the lower right SECTIONS, it does not seem like there would be a load-bearing wall.
If the ceiling is as you describe, it's most likely not a load-bearing wall. However, to be completely sure, you should bring in a structural engineer to check it out. It could be quite expensive if you tear down the wall and then it turns out to be a load-bearing wall...mnyqvist said:
No load-bearing walls are built with 70mm studs; they should be at least 95mm to support the beam at the top, which is usually 2 pieces of 45 x 145/170 mm standing on edge. And if you can confirm that the roof was built first, you can likely rely on the blueprint, which also doesn't show load-bearing walls in the section cuts. Additionally, what kind of floor structure is there? If it's a slab on grade and you have the plan, it should also be reinforced with a beam. If you have a crawl space, you have a sparse masonry wall with a load beam on top at the same place as the interior walls. This should be evident in the plans if you have the complete set.
Isn't it usually said that walls that are parallel to the ridge are load-bearing?
Yes, as a rule, it is so if there is an upper floor. The floor structure is then often joined over the heart wall. There are buildings where a steel beam is integrated, and no walls are needed for support. If it's only one floor, the roof trusses' construction can be such that no support underneath is needed (load-bearing wall or heart wall).ricebridge said:
With a span of 8.5 m and a truss roof, no load-bearing interior walls are usually needed. From what I can see based on the drawings, the wall is definitely not load-bearing.