Hello
As we are going to change the layout in the current house, I wonder if this truss is self-supporting.
I actually believe nothing other than it being the case, as all interior walls are with 45*45 studs and there is no continuous wall in the middle. Planning to completely open up between the kitchen and bedroom 1 + bedroom 4 to create an open plan kitchen/living room there, and then build a hallway in the existing living room where the remaining part of the living room will become a new bedroom.
It should be clear from the truss drawing if a support "in the middle" is required.
Is there any mention of this in the description?
And I don't see any such marking on the photo of the drawing.
Therefore, I think it's OK to remove the intermediate walls.
But note, I am not an expert on this!
With those dimensions and a span of 8 meters, I would stick my neck out and say that yes, those are self-supporting. But if I were you, I probably wouldn't rely solely on me. 😉
The chance is, as mentioned, high that they are self-supporting, but it could be like in our house that you have a "shared heart wall" (uncertain if the term is correct), so that the wall towards the two bedrooms is supporting in the left part and the wall towards the kitchen and bathroom in the right part. This is not apparent from our house plan; it's something we've been told by neighbors and have been able to confirm during remodeling.
Hi, I should also add that there is already an "arch" installed by the previous owner, so the door opening to the kitchen is now about 250 cm wide. There is no glue-laminated beam or similar installed on this. So essentially, it is now just the wall behind the closets in Bedroom 1 that I want to remove.
But to play it safe, it might be a good idea to install a glue-laminated beam in the attic just in case. It can't cost much, right?
Hi,
Is it a Smålandsvillan, built around the 80s??
Why am I asking? Because then we have the same trusses and ours are load-bearing, I have torn out all the interior walls and your layout and everything looks very similar to our house. Used to look..
I have the same truss at home that you have. However, I have wedges at the end of the angle where the collar beam meets the top rail/top frame. Ours is self-supporting anyway.
So I stand in the "self-supporting line". I would be quite surprised if this needed support from underneath.
Saw the walls longitudinally with a chainsaw and see if they pinch 😎
Joking aside. You can always check a garage manufacturer's website and see. For example, Mellby garage uses this truss model as self-supporting.
I claim that the truss is not self-supporting.
I see no specified number of nails in the joints.
There is no wedge in the meeting between the top chord and the bottom chord.
The nail plates over the joint in the bottom chord are rather flimsy.
If the truss were self-supporting, substantial nail plates would be needed in the bottom chord. There will be a large tensile moment there. A few decades ago I nailed trusses with a 7.5-meter span. Lots of nails in each piece of timber. In a plate measuring 77 x 152 mm, there aren't many holes. Moreover, it's unsuitable to nail so close to the end. The timber splits and can't bear any load at all.
I did the calculation in the DOS program that came with the Truss Book back then. I can't run the program anymore. Maybe someone else can help you.
I assert that the truss is not self-supporting. I do not see the specified number of nails in the joints. There is no wedge in the meeting between the upper beam and lower beam. The nail plates over the joint in the lower beam are rather inadequate.
If the truss had been self-supporting, substantial nail plates would be needed in the lower beam. There will be a significant tension moment there. A few decades ago, I nailed trusses with a span of 7.5 meters. Lots of nails in each timber piece. In a plate measuring 77 x 152 mm, there aren't that many holes. Furthermore, it is inappropriate to nail so closely near the end. The wood splits and cannot bear any load at all.
At that time, I did the calculation in the DOS program that came with the Truss Book. I can't run the program anymore. Maybe someone else can help you.
Regards / Findus
I was thinking along the exact same lines, which is why I first ask about which homebuilder is responsible. In our case, the trusses come as cassettes with the flooring. And if the customer has the same manufacturer, Smålandsvillan, then they are self-supporting to 90%.
But if not, then the nail plate at the bottom in the middle of the lower beam makes me never want to tear down the wall before investigating this more thoroughly. Because the tension that will arise there does not seem like that plate is dimensioned for it. Or rather, the nail joint.
