I called the guy and he explained me this report. Basically all values under 1.00 means sand is loose and might have problems after may be 2 years if don't use piling. Also he said there is no requirement for drilling piling(which are expensive), steel piles which can even go with hammer will do the job.B bossespecial skrev:
After some quick research the method used is called ”viktsondering” and what I understand its not possible to derive the undrained shear strength (cuk) from these results - only a relative stength. I guess that explains why the value is missing.
The value which varies between 0.00-1.00 is the force applied and the lower bar shows the number of half loops the screw is needed to do to get 0.2 m further down in the soil. Thus when no half loops is needed, the screw just sinks from the applied force (= really crappy soil to build on).
It seems that the first 5 m is really crappy and that the rest down to rock is just crappy, in the literature it says that values 0-10 half loops is very loose.
Thus, it is now atleast safe to say that piles is the way to go - if you move forward, dont forget to think of the areas which are not piled and how for instance parked cars or other loads will influence the surroundings and most importantly near the piled slabs over time. Pavement, pavers and gravel weigh alot, so you may need to dig away and replace soil with something lighter before so that you dont add any extra weight to the soil.
Good luck! Hope you stick around and keep us posted on the process
The value which varies between 0.00-1.00 is the force applied and the lower bar shows the number of half loops the screw is needed to do to get 0.2 m further down in the soil. Thus when no half loops is needed, the screw just sinks from the applied force (= really crappy soil to build on).
It seems that the first 5 m is really crappy and that the rest down to rock is just crappy, in the literature it says that values 0-10 half loops is very loose.
Thus, it is now atleast safe to say that piles is the way to go - if you move forward, dont forget to think of the areas which are not piled and how for instance parked cars or other loads will influence the surroundings and most importantly near the piled slabs over time. Pavement, pavers and gravel weigh alot, so you may need to dig away and replace soil with something lighter before so that you dont add any extra weight to the soil.
Good luck! Hope you stick around and keep us posted on the process
Thanks for your help. I will ask this question as well to the ground work contractor but I was wondering can it be really bad that it doesn't withstand the weight of aCar.P patrikd84 skrev:After some quick research the method used is called ”viktsondering” and what I understand its not possible to derive the undrained shear strength (cuk) from these results - only a relative stength. I guess that explains why the value is missing.
The value which varies between 0.00-1.00 is the force applied and the lower bar shows the number of half loops the screw is needed to do to get 0.2 m further down in the soil. Thus when no half loops is needed, the screw just sinks from the applied force (= really crappy soil to build on).
It seems that the first 5 m is really crappy and that the rest down to rock is just crappy, in the literature it says that values 0-10 half loops is very loose.
[bild]
Thus, it is now atleast safe to say that piles is the way to go - if you move forward, dont forget to think of the areas which are not piled and how for instance parked cars or other loads will influence the surroundings and most importantly near the piled slabs over time. Pavement, pavers and gravel weigh alot, so you may need to dig away and replace soil with something lighter before so that you dont add any extra weight to the soil.
Good luck! Hope you stick around and keep us posted on the process
Basically it was a big plot and before there was a house in the middle of the Big plot which they demolished to divide it into 2 plots to sale.
How was that house standing without piling?
Medlem
· Västernorrland
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The only way to get good answers is to get a second opionion from someone else or perhaps several others. Might cost some more initially but it is probably the best start. It is not possible to tell wether or not you need to do this or not based on one opinion/offer.
Lets say a car weigh about 2000 kg, that equals to 20 kN which is distributed on 4 wheels - 5 kN per wheel. Assume that the contact surface of each wheel is 600x600 mm result in a pressure of about 2 kPa. According to thw report 10 kPa result in a settlement of 3-5 cm/m lose clay, so (even if its not a linear relation) the estimated settlement is 2/10 * 3 cm/m * 10 m = 6 cm to 10 cm in the long run IF you always park your car in the same spot. This excludes settlements of for instance pavement, if the soil is not unloaded by replacing some clay with lighter materials.A aksgir skrev:
Maybe there is a reason why the old house is removed? How old was it? Maybe due to settlements the house was so bad that is was too expensive to fix? The older house was probably smaller and lighter, no concrete slab - OR they can actually have used some wooden piles (common in the old days) to support the ground slab under the walls - in that case the piles may have rotten and an uneven settlement started to be noticable (hard to close doors/windows and cracks in the walls.
Is it Stone or Wood house?A aksgir skrev:
You dont need the extra 220tons "uppackning" becouse the house is standing on the piles, in some years you Will have space under the house, so that extra is waste of money.
I Think the price for piling is not the best, depending on which size? RR75,RR90 or RR115 ?
I show you price for RR90 when my Company do piling.
Etablering = 10000:-
27st x 375 = 10125:-
300m = 105000:-
So i Think you can get your price down if you check whit more companys and ask for price.
Sorry for my bad english
