Will 45x45 Battens Hold for Kitchen Cabinets?

[Rickadilly Danger]

I am planning to install a sliding door in a doorway where the wall is load-bearing (standing plank, 1900s apartment building). The opening has already been made and braced.

I'm thinking of installing the sliding door and building a new wall on the outside. On the new wall, one half will be part of a kitchen (some 40-depth cabinets). To avoid making the new wall too "thick," I want to know if it is both OK and sustainable to use 45x45 framing + OSB + drywall, instead of 70x45. I'll probably add insulation in the interior wall as well. I wasn't planning on making a backside for the new wall, but a few nails should be enough to keep the insulation in place, right?

Load-bearing -> Door -> New interior wall -> kitchen.

Makes any sense? Am I on the right track, or would you have done it differently?

 

[Tompafix]

I am thinking of building a sliding door into a doorway, where the wall is load-bearing (standing planks, 1900's apartment building). The hole is already made and reinforced.

I'm considering installing the sliding door and building a new wall on the outside. On the new wall, there will then be one half of a kitchen (some 40-depth cabinets). To avoid making the new wall too "thick," I want to know if it's both OK and sustainable to use 45x45 battens + OSB + plasterboard instead of 70x45. I'll probably add insulation to the inner wall too. I haven't planned to make a backside on the new wall, but it should be enough with a few nails to keep the insulation in place, right?

Load-bearing -> Door -> New inner wall -> kitchen.

Makes any sense? Am I on the right track, or would you have done it differently?

My entire kitchen is mounted on a 45mm wall, as all inner walls are built with 45mm battens... What the builders did was screw a 120mm batten between the battens where the wall cabinets were to be attached.

 

[BirgitS]

It should be fine to screw kitchen cabinets into OSB alone.

 

[roger.lehrberg]

If you hang the upper cabinets on a rail, you distribute the load over such a large area that there shouldn't be any problems. If you want to avoid the rail, it makes sense as Tompafix suggests, to place a sturdy stud behind the OSB to provide better support. I personally wouldn't dare to take a chance with just one screw in each upper corner of plain OSB.

When I installed a similar wall for a sliding door (though just a wall, no cabinets there), I placed a hardboard on the inside against the door leaf to avoid the risk of the insulation "shedding dust." Insulation fibers are not entirely healthy to breathe in.

 

[BirgitS]

I personally wouldn't dare to take a chance with just one screw in each upper corner in simple OSB.

See the picture that @tergo inserted in post https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threa...-som-delvis-har-osb-bakom.539437/post-6062319
A single screw in OSB thus holds for more than 169 kg.

 

[g.kraft]

Common 45x45 in the hardware store are in fast-growing spruce. They are pretty lousy compared to older studs in pine.

My entire house has 45x35 studs in pine in interior walls with 10mm Masonite, it's sturdy enough. But replacing with modern 45 stud and drywall would not be the same thing.

 

[roger.lehrberg]

See the image that @tergo pasted in post [link]
A single screw in OSB thus holds more than 169 kg.

Yes, there you have it. Preconceived notions are not always correct. I maintain that personally, I would want more than two screws in OSB to hold an overhead cabinet, but then again, I am of a "belt and suspenders" nature. 😉