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14 replies
8k views
14 replies
Using sparse 28x70 as studs for the ceiling?
Hello!
I have searched and searched without finding an answer.
The plan is to install a ceiling in the hallway + small room. I am thinking of constructing a frame around the room and then attaching 28x70 battens at some distance (cc300?) within this framework. Is it possible to use the same battens to create the mentioned framework, or is it too weak? I don’t have enough height to use 45x45 as a frame. Are there other alternatives? I would preferably avoid attaching the battens directly to the ceiling.
Thanks
I have searched and searched without finding an answer.
The plan is to install a ceiling in the hallway + small room. I am thinking of constructing a frame around the room and then attaching 28x70 battens at some distance (cc300?) within this framework. Is it possible to use the same battens to create the mentioned framework, or is it too weak? I don’t have enough height to use 45x45 as a frame. Are there other alternatives? I would preferably avoid attaching the battens directly to the ceiling.
Thanks
It involves a lot of drilling into the concrete ceiling. It feels more convenient to put the grid in a framework. I also don't have access to a rotary hammer, so I have to rely on the impact drill! Fewer holes in the concrete = less work.Fulkemisten said:
Hmm. How large is the hall and what type of ceiling is it? I find it unlikely that the ceiling could be attached only at the walls for most types of inner ceilings, assuming it doesn't involve very small spans.
The hallway is only 90cm wide, so I'm planning to use a frame of spaced paneling and then place crosswise spaced paneling in the frame at cc300. In the other room, it's 230cm from wall to wall, so I'll probably need to have studs in the middle as well to attach the spaced paneling. I'm planning to install regular 13mm gypsum board in the spaced paneling.
J Johan456 said:
Yes, exactly, I plan to reinforce the middle of the ceiling with an extra beam. But is sparse paneling too weak to use as a frame/beam in this case?
As long as you don't have more than 1200mm cc on the "frame," it will be fine. Roof trusses have these measurements, and that's where you space them out. If you want to be extra sure, you can add an extra row of spacing in the larger room. Then it will be around 770mm cc. That will be good 
You might also consider buying a 35x70 regel, as this will make the ceiling about 7-8 mm lower but the glesen can handle more span.
https://www.bauhaus.se/regel-planhyvlad-34x70mm-3-6m
https://www.bauhaus.se/regel-planhyvlad-34x70mm-3-6m
No, gles 28x70 can be used as a "truss" when you cross-spars, so to speak. This is often done during renovations. Set 28x70 CC 1200mm and then gles on it.N Nooblet said:
I think the biggest advantage I can see is that you probably reduce sound (overhear) between the floors, i.e., noise and steps from the floor above don't sound as much, and you don't disturb as much either. And then a dropped ceiling, as much as possible decoupled from the existing one, is among the best.N Nooblet said:
Then perhaps a lot of sound propagates as structural noise into the walls, and there it won't help.
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But don't let a missing rotary hammer dictate. For this, a cheap machine from, for example, Jula will suffice. Screws and plugs will cost more than the machine.
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