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Too big joist hanger. Is it ok?
Hello,
I have hired a company to build a new fence and I am worried that their workmanship is not good. I hope to get answers from an expert regarding my concerns.
1. When attaching the post base to the post, they used a wooden block as a spacer that is not pressure-treated. The posts are 90x90 and the post base is 110mm wide. Is it okay to do this?
2. For the footings, they have not filled with gravel for frost protection. It is not dug down to frost-free depth but they are very wide footings, so maybe it works anyway? Is it okay?
3. The cement can be scraped off with a sharp object quite easily even though it has dried for about 10 days. Is this common?
4. The screws are driven in very deep and have created holes. Is this a common practice? It doesn't look nice.
Grateful for opinions and answers.
Kind regards,
Daniel
I have hired a company to build a new fence and I am worried that their workmanship is not good. I hope to get answers from an expert regarding my concerns.
1. When attaching the post base to the post, they used a wooden block as a spacer that is not pressure-treated. The posts are 90x90 and the post base is 110mm wide. Is it okay to do this?
2. For the footings, they have not filled with gravel for frost protection. It is not dug down to frost-free depth but they are very wide footings, so maybe it works anyway? Is it okay?
3. The cement can be scraped off with a sharp object quite easily even though it has dried for about 10 days. Is this common?
4. The screws are driven in very deep and have created holes. Is this a common practice? It doesn't look nice.
Grateful for opinions and answers.
Kind regards,
Daniel
Last edited:
I would not have accepted that from a company. My own DIY carpentry sometimes looks like that, but I don't do them professionally for others for money.
Screwed-in-at-an-angle screws always end up countersunk a bit too deep if you don't want the head to stick out, but you can make it look a bit nicer than that. Regarding joist hangers, at least I think it's quite unacceptable for a paying customer. When you know you've purchased 90 posts, you should use things that fit or make modifications that look good and work well.
One cannot compensate depth with width. Whether it will work for you or not is hard to say. It depends entirely on the foundation. How deep has it been dug?
Since it is a fence, if it lifts a few millimeters here and there, it may not matter much.
Regarding the block in the beam shoe, it is a bad idea. There will be standing water between the block and the post. The block will rot and then the fence will be loose. It’s better to use a plastic block in that case, but it's best not to use one at all to avoid standing water.
Standing water is always what kills the structure.
Since it is a fence, if it lifts a few millimeters here and there, it may not matter much.
Regarding the block in the beam shoe, it is a bad idea. There will be standing water between the block and the post. The block will rot and then the fence will be loose. It’s better to use a plastic block in that case, but it's best not to use one at all to avoid standing water.
Standing water is always what kills the structure.
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
· Limhamn
· 1 965 posts
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
- Limhamn
- 1,965 posts
This is the kind of thing that makes me hesitate for as long as possible to hire contractors.Danne N said:
Hello, I have hired a company to build a new fence and am worried that their work is not good. I hope to get answers from an expert about my concerns.
1. When mounting the post shoe in the post, they have used a wooden piece as a spacer that is not pressure treated. The posts are 90x90 and the shoe is 110mm wide. Is it okay to do this?
2. The footings have not been laid with macadam for frost. It's not dug down to frost-free depth but very wide footings, so maybe it works anyway? Is it okay?
3. The cement can be scraped off with a sharp object quite easily even though it's dried for about 10 days. Is this common?
4. The screws are driven in very deep and have created hollows. Is this usual? It doesn't look nice.
Grateful for opinions and responses.
Best regards, Daniel
What kind of bunglers are they? Do they have zero professional pride?
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
· Limhamn
· 1 965 posts
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
- Limhamn
- 1,965 posts
Ossian K Olsson said:
Ossian K Olsson said:
. It is a board from a disposable pallet. They have done the same on all 7 foundations/beam shoes/posts.Danne N said:
Hi,
I have hired a company to build a new fence/railing and I'm worried that their execution is not good. So I hope to get answers from some expert on my concerns.
1. When mounting the post shoe in the post, they have used a wooden piece as a spacer block that is not pressure-treated. The posts are 90x90 and the post shoe is 110mm wide. Is it okay to do it this way?
2. The foundations, they have not been based with macadam for frost. It is not dug down to frost-free depth but very wide foundations so maybe it still works? Is it okay?
3. The cement can be scraped off with a sharp object quite easily despite having dried for about 10 days. Is that common?
4. The screws are driven in very deeply and have created holes. Is that usually done? It doesn't look nice.
Thankful for opinions and answers.
Best regards,
Daniel
Exactly, I expect to get more for my money and for it to be well thought out. The craftsmen also purchased everything themselves after I roughly explained what I wanted. So I will complain about this. Thank you for your response.ricebridge said:
Spontaneously, it feels like a lot of work to get that sorted out; just constructing so that those hideously ugly pillars are even visible would have made me sad.
Otherwise, I agree with some of the answers, it's a mix of okay/meh. That block is bad, but it's positioned so that you can both keep an eye on it and replace it if it becomes bad (or come up with something better than a block).
So in summary: not pretty but it will work.
Otherwise, I agree with some of the answers, it's a mix of okay/meh. That block is bad, but it's positioned so that you can both keep an eye on it and replace it if it becomes bad (or come up with something better than a block).
So in summary: not pretty but it will work.
There are blocks in each shoe and under the fence/plank it is not as easy to replace. That they didn't bother to find a piece of treated wood and/or miter the top shows they didn't even try. I guess they either had the shoes already or found them at a good lower price than the right shoes and didn't specify the material.
That the company has extra work to present solutions and correct the mistakes is up to them.
That the company has extra work to present solutions and correct the mistakes is up to them.
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
· Limhamn
· 1 965 posts
Ossian K Olsson
Hobby electrician
- Limhamn
- 1,965 posts
If I hire a craftsman for expensive money, I expect a better result and a higher level of finesse than this. The only excuse would be if the company was called Bongk å bygg, then you can tell from the name what you get.GoC said:
My brother had a carpenter to do the fine carpentry (moldings etc.) in a kitchen. It turned out so incredibly well and the finish was perfect.
But then you see work like this where the OP will likely be bothered by it for 20 years to come (if it lasts that long).
It's sad that it's such a lottery regarding craftsmen.


