Moving in soon! And then one of the projects is to take down the plasterboard in the living room to insulate and avoid resonances in the walls. Does anyone have any tips on how to remove these nailed plasterboards?
 
Crowbar!
It might sound crude, but it's usually not possible to take down nailed drywall sheets whole. Typically, a lot of repair is needed if you want to reuse them.
Most people buy new sheets!
 
Crowbar is probably the tried-and-true method... Smash, throw out, put up new... ...
 
Can you find the nails, would you be able to try to drive in the nails with a nail set/punch and cut strips in all the joints.

Could work but as I said, it usually requires some patching.
 
You can find the nails with a strong magnet. So it can work.
 
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Pezzo
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If you don't have a multitool, you can cut the plasterboard with a sturdy utility knife slightly to the side of each stud and then break off the plasterboard. The plasterboard that remains on the studs can be removed with a morakniv or similar tool. The nails are easiest to pull out with a hammer.
 
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Svante Svenson
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Locate the nails with a magnet, remove filler with a mora knife or similar, then remove the nails with a nail puller. That's the method we use for all our old plasterboards. It doesn't take longer than being brutal but makes much less mess.

Malin
 
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Anna.p
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Mikael_L
My proposal.

Saw a hole with a hole saw at the top of the gypsum board in each stud bay.
Hole saw:
dosfras.jpg

Fill the bay with loose fill, wood shavings, or sawdust. Sawdust probably provides the best soundproofing due to its higher weight among these materials. However, there's a greater risk it will leak out and make a mess in your house.
The bay doesn't need to be completely filled to dampen resonances; I've heard that 1/3 should suffice, but I would personally fill up to the hole saw opening, just to be sure. The sound transmission through the entire wall structure is also reduced by the higher weight that a maximum filling provides.

Then repair the hole according to this instruction:
http://byggsystem.knaufdanogips.se/mounting/processing/gypsum/repair/index.html

Though I would probably make the hole with a T70 cutter, then make the repair piece with a T80 cutter. Then bevel the edges in the hole and the repair piece. Or at least I would try this first.

But in any case, it's probably much faster to repair a piece of the board this way than to try and get some whole boards down.
 
The nails are clearly visible since it is completely new and untaped, not even puttied.

Sawing holes and filling with loose wool/shavings is also an idea of course. Is it possible to fill it yourself in a practical way?
 
Buster1 Buster1 said:
You can find the nails with a strong magnet. So it might work.
Did exactly as you said, used magnets to remove the screws. Voila, the drywall was gone in 4 large pieces, 2 layers of mosaic with plastic net reinforcement included.

Thanks for the tip.
 
If you want to take down screwed drywall panels, can you unscrew them or do you need to use a crowbar, for example? I have a room that was additionally insulated in 1990 but either the carpenter cheated or was incompetent because the walls bulge everywhere. In one spot there's a height difference of several centimeters from the "hump" to the end of the wall. I now want to restore the walls with new insulation and new drywall. I've torn down one wall, but it resulted in a mountain of gypsum pieces and DUST on the floor. I would assume it's not healthy to breathe in gypsum dust. The reason they bulge is because the insulation was packed between the studs, it wasn't cut to fit. This created a lot of pressure from the insulation. I notice it when I open a wall, it almost crawls out by itself.
 
Not a pro. But in my experience, it is almost impossible to unscrew the boards. The screws are hidden in plaster, and IF you find the screws, the grooves are filled with plaster.

It gets dusty when you tear down gypsum, no matter how you do it. Make sure to wear a respirator. Demolition dust is never healthy. And have an industrial vacuum cleaner (buy cheap, or rent).

You should also wear the mask when handling the insulation, as small fiber bits fly in the air.
 
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Fisherqueen
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There are also dust traps available for rent (like a dehumidifier but for dust).
 
It was more complicated than I thought. I have never dealt with this kind of thing, don't know why I'm doing it now, but I get so upset when I see that a substandard job was done 31 years ago. It all started when I was going to mount a TV on the wall and it wasn't possible because the wall wasn't even. Then the carpenter came here and put up new panels with correctly cut insulation. It turned out so well!

Should one have a breathing mask that makes you look like you're from outer space? The kind that were in stock in Sweden, but were destroyed sometime in the 90s when no disasters could strike us?
 
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