Hello!
I would like some tips on how to approach the demolition of the lightweight concrete wall between the hall and the kitchen - in an apartment built in '68. It's a long corridor with doors to the kitchen, bedroom, and living room. I am now in the process of removing the kitchen entrance to create more space in the hall. I don't want to remodel the hall, so I'm planning to keep a portion of the wall around the actual "opening." My question is: How much is aesthetically pleasing and practical to keep towards the ceiling and the wall? I'm considering adding moldings around it. Thanks in advance!
I would like some tips on how to approach the demolition of the lightweight concrete wall between the hall and the kitchen - in an apartment built in '68. It's a long corridor with doors to the kitchen, bedroom, and living room. I am now in the process of removing the kitchen entrance to create more space in the hall. I don't want to remodel the hall, so I'm planning to keep a portion of the wall around the actual "opening." My question is: How much is aesthetically pleasing and practical to keep towards the ceiling and the wall? I'm considering adding moldings around it. Thanks in advance!
You probably don't even know for sure if anything will be saved up towards the ceiling... Lightweight concrete works very poorly as free-hanging without support, meaning when you demolish below, it will probably come loose up towards the ceiling. Otherwise, the same height as door openings (usually 2.10) is probably the nicest so it looks uniform. Either all the way up or 2.10
Ah, I didn't think of that, that it might just fall down without support - that's why you should ask! Then it will have to be all the way up and some sort of trim towards the ceiling. Thanks!P petererlandsson1194 said:
Above the door that exists today, there is probably support but not on the sides. It should be possible to get it nice with a trim a bit wider than the actual opening against the ceiling. You'll probably need to line the hole on the sides too.SandraRenoverar said:
Also, consider cutting out the hole on the sides to make it as neat as possible. The joints are most likely staggered in each course of stone so it's not possible to just remove stones at a joint.P petererlandsson1194 said:
If you're not afraid of dust, a large angle grinder with a diamond disc works well but it will create an incredible amount of dust.
A reciprocating saw with a diamond blade produces significantly less dust but it's not entirely dust-free either.
Welcome to the forum!
In this 60s apartment with lightweight concrete walls, there is no concrete above the doors, but rather a simple frame of wooden studs is there, and then they've attached masonite boards or something similar.
In this 60s apartment with lightweight concrete walls, there is no concrete above the doors, but rather a simple frame of wooden studs is there, and then they've attached masonite boards or something similar.
Yes, that's quite common, I have seen. So if it needs to be widened, up to the ceiling is not an issue. An alternative for TS is to first demolish and then build down using studs and boards, but I got the impression that you wanted to avoid renovating the hallway. There's a risk of very wide casings in the hallway thoughBirgitS said:
Thank you for your tips! I've started the demolition, and it turned out to be long vertical blocks that are cast with rebar, from floor to ceiling. So no blocks. Therefore, it doesn't seem like it will fall from the ceiling. My plan now is to leave about 20 cm around the hole and attach molding and trim. It looks like it will stay hanging in the ceiling, right?
One thing I need to fix is that I knocked out a little more than 20 cm in one spot. Do you think I can build up that piece again with something like Husfix?
Thanks!
One thing I need to fix is that I knocked out a little more than 20 cm in one spot. Do you think I can build up that piece again with something like Husfix?
Thanks!
