Hello
House from 1911, 1 1/2-story, frame in log construction, broken mansard roof.
Heart walls of standing plank approximately 3x9 inches (75x220mm)
Image from the top edge of the heart wall in the attic
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/isoleringvind/window.php?1
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/isoleringvind/window.php?5
To the question:
This door opening will be moved about 40cm to the left, 2.5 planks therefore need to be cut off.
The same amount to the right will be closed off in favor of a bathroom.
To the right of this photo, you can see some kind of bracing that supports half the door frame.
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/filer/dorrpost/01.jpg
The heart walls rest on a huge sill in the crawl space foundation
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/filer/dorrpost/02.jpg
In my view, all the weight from the roof trusses rests on the exterior walls, and only 1 or 2 floor joists on the upper floor would be affected when I cut off 2.5 planks to the left, to the right there is already a brace that supports half the door frame.
Am I thinking correctly or will the chainsaw jam if I start cutting?
Would it work with a brace that consists of an externally screwed plank say 45x195 that is screwed at the top of all planks and covers the entire wall from left to right?
Grateful for tips!
Jocke
House from 1911, 1 1/2-story, frame in log construction, broken mansard roof.
Heart walls of standing plank approximately 3x9 inches (75x220mm)
Image from the top edge of the heart wall in the attic
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/isoleringvind/window.php?1
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/isoleringvind/window.php?5
To the question:
This door opening will be moved about 40cm to the left, 2.5 planks therefore need to be cut off.
The same amount to the right will be closed off in favor of a bathroom.
To the right of this photo, you can see some kind of bracing that supports half the door frame.
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/filer/dorrpost/01.jpg
The heart walls rest on a huge sill in the crawl space foundation
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/filer/dorrpost/02.jpg
In my view, all the weight from the roof trusses rests on the exterior walls, and only 1 or 2 floor joists on the upper floor would be affected when I cut off 2.5 planks to the left, to the right there is already a brace that supports half the door frame.
Am I thinking correctly or will the chainsaw jam if I start cutting?
Would it work with a brace that consists of an externally screwed plank say 45x195 that is screwed at the top of all planks and covers the entire wall from left to right?
Grateful for tips!
Jocke
Good morning, repositioning at the top.
No one who can do this?
No one who can do this?
Hmm, difficult to give advice remotely but well...
I would probably set three studs 45 x wall thickness, one as a permanent right post, and one as a prop/support 10 cm from the left while sawing. Then insert another similar one as a permanent left post and then remove the prop/support.
/Kent
I would probably set three studs 45 x wall thickness, one as a permanent right post, and one as a prop/support 10 cm from the left while sawing. Then insert another similar one as a permanent left post and then remove the prop/support.
/Kent
Hi Kent
Unfortunately, I don't want to make the heart wall thicker, it will affect the result of the bathroom wall to the right, which it should belong to. I don't want to tile in a reinforcement unless it's absolutely necessary.
I had an idea to screw, for example, a 45x195 along the entire opening at the top, cut away, then insert a switch.
Do you think this would work?
Tricky when you don't know what's loading the heart wall......
Jocke
Unfortunately, I don't want to make the heart wall thicker, it will affect the result of the bathroom wall to the right, which it should belong to. I don't want to tile in a reinforcement unless it's absolutely necessary.
I had an idea to screw, for example, a 45x195 along the entire opening at the top, cut away, then insert a switch.
Do you think this would work?
Tricky when you don't know what's loading the heart wall......
Jocke
I didn't mean for you to choose studs that are wider than the wall's thickness. It looks in any case from the pictures as if it is around 120 mm thick, if not then use the 45x195 you are considering? Use studs then at 45x120...
/Kent
/Kent
I'm the one who's lost in the pancake, thought you meant I should attach the studs to the far right of the wall, not in the door opening. Sometimes you make a mental slip 
The walls are made of 160mm wide and 70mm thick planks.
Here's how I interpret your suggestion:
Far right in the existing door opening, I place a standing 45x70 stud.
Far left in the existing door opening (10cm gap to the left), I place a temporary standing 45x70 stud.
Then I cut away 2.5 planks to the left of the temporary stud.
Then I insert a permanent standing 45x70 far left and remove the temporary one.
That's how I interpret you, right or wrong?
If I do that, I have no support for the 2.5 studs I cut away.
Or am I completely off base??
Thanks, Jocke
The walls are made of 160mm wide and 70mm thick planks.
Here's how I interpret your suggestion:
Far right in the existing door opening, I place a standing 45x70 stud.
Far left in the existing door opening (10cm gap to the left), I place a temporary standing 45x70 stud.
Then I cut away 2.5 planks to the left of the temporary stud.
Then I insert a permanent standing 45x70 far left and remove the temporary one.
That's how I interpret you, right or wrong?
If I do that, I have no support for the 2.5 studs I cut away.
Or am I completely off base??
Thanks, Jocke
Or maybe I am...
I assume a bit that you can support directly against the beam in the ceiling or?
Isn't it the beam that the horizontal boards on the right edge of the opening are nailed against?
This is a bit the problem with trying to give advice when you're not on site *S*
/Kent
I assume a bit that you can support directly against the beam in the ceiling or?
Isn't it the beam that the horizontal boards on the right edge of the opening are nailed against?
This is a bit the problem with trying to give advice when you're not on site *S*
/Kent
You are absolutely right that on the right-hand side above the existing door post, there is a beam supporting parts of the heart wall (3 planks).
I can shore it up with a stud, but why?
To the left in the existing door opening, there are 3 planks hanging in the air, probably because there is no floor joist above these 3 on the left as it is not relieved.
I will remove 2.5 planks to the left of the existing door opening, which means a total of 5.5 planks without support, the ones on the far right already rest on a beam.
Since they are 160mm wide, about 900mm of heart wall will hang in the air, and I likely have a floor joist from above
that is not supported by the heart wall.
The question is, how much load could there be from a floor joist from the upper floor?
I should probably try to get a carpenter to come by to check how it's built and what kind of load it might be.
If I need to insert a sturdy beam across the whole thing, I might have to rent a number of props and lift the entire piece.
Jocke
I can shore it up with a stud, but why?
To the left in the existing door opening, there are 3 planks hanging in the air, probably because there is no floor joist above these 3 on the left as it is not relieved.
I will remove 2.5 planks to the left of the existing door opening, which means a total of 5.5 planks without support, the ones on the far right already rest on a beam.
Since they are 160mm wide, about 900mm of heart wall will hang in the air, and I likely have a floor joist from above
that is not supported by the heart wall.
The question is, how much load could there be from a floor joist from the upper floor?
I should probably try to get a carpenter to come by to check how it's built and what kind of load it might be.
If I need to insert a sturdy beam across the whole thing, I might have to rent a number of props and lift the entire piece.
Jocke
Thank you Manberg.
I might simply have to do the same on the left as it is on the right with the transfer?
That is, stamp up and put a transfer above the plank closest to the chimney on the left that meets the transfer on the right side?
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/badrumnedre/window.php?42
Do you think there's such a load on this wall?
Is it only the upper floor or can the roof rest on this heart wall as well?
How should I support this wall with jacks?
Would it be enough with one jack on each side of the wall lifting a screwed 45x145 that holds the floor joists, do you think?
Or is there a risk of sudden death?
I'll call a carpenter before I do anything ....
I might simply have to do the same on the left as it is on the right with the transfer?
That is, stamp up and put a transfer above the plank closest to the chimney on the left that meets the transfer on the right side?
http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/badrumnedre/window.php?42
Do you think there's such a load on this wall?
Is it only the upper floor or can the roof rest on this heart wall as well?
How should I support this wall with jacks?
Would it be enough with one jack on each side of the wall lifting a screwed 45x145 that holds the floor joists, do you think?
Or is there a risk of sudden death?
I'll call a carpenter before I do anything ....
I have now exposed the entire wall and removed the ceiling.
Above the load-bearing wall I plan to alter, but below the upper floor joists, there's a 90x90 dense piece of pine.
From the chimney and likely to the outer wall on the short side.
Shouldn't this take the load from the above joists?
I have sawn the first plank to the left of the existing door opening and the handsaw didn't pinch.
Anyone have any comments?
See new pictures: http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/badrumnedre/window.php?67
The eighth plank from the left, where the existing joint ends, will be supported by a plank.
So it will actually only be load from one floor joist that rests on the 90x90 and bears from above.
The others have support.
Above the load-bearing wall I plan to alter, but below the upper floor joists, there's a 90x90 dense piece of pine.
From the chimney and likely to the outer wall on the short side.
Shouldn't this take the load from the above joists?
I have sawn the first plank to the left of the existing door opening and the handsaw didn't pinch.
Anyone have any comments?
See new pictures: http://www.nybleus.se/hus/gallery/images/badrumnedre/window.php?67
The eighth plank from the left, where the existing joint ends, will be supported by a plank.
So it will actually only be load from one floor joist that rests on the 90x90 and bears from above.
The others have support.
Tomorrow I'll cut the rest if no one hesitates
Now it's sawed, the fogsvans didn't pinch