Soundproof walls in basement? (Rehearsal space)

[GEBER]

Hello.
I have two teenage sons who have started a band in my basement. Personally, I think it's very fun as I am very interested in music myself, and I do everything to encourage this. But it is actually the case that it sounds a bit too much up here on the entrance level sometimes. Therefore, I am considering how I could dampen the sound a bit. I have measured the ceiling height in the basement and know that there is room to add extra insulation to the ceiling in the basement. Either I buy expensive materials from a soundproofing company or I frame the ceiling with 75 studs and insulate and mount double drywall. Would that work to dampen the sound? Do I need an air gap between the existing ceiling and the "new" one?

 

[Installation]

Hi.
I have two teenage sons who have started a band in my basement. Personally, I think it's very fun since I myself am very interested in music, and do everything to promote it. But it actually sounds a bit too much up here on the entrance level sometimes. I'm therefore considering how I could dampen the sound a bit. I have measured the ceiling height in the basement and know that there is room to add insulation to the ceiling in the basement. Either I buy expensive materials from a soundproofing company or I put up the ceiling with 75 framing and insulate and install double plasterboards. Would that work to dampen the sound? Do I need an air gap between the existing ceiling and the "new" one?

you're on the right track here. Instruments clatter across the entire frequency range and you'll have a hard time reaching everything that's just the way it is.

Use hat profiles and double plaster. A 70 skp around the entire room. Place it 10 mm from the existing ceiling. In this, mount a primary rule at 45 mm 1200 mm from one wall and then 1200 mm cc to the next. Install hat profiles cross-wise to the primary at 450 or 300 cc. Both work with double plasterboard. Insulate with 45 insulation and put on your plasterboards. Then you'll have at least a 30 dB reduction upwards.

you'll still get flanking transmissions.

Some room acoustic measures can also be made.
Of course the kids should play music.

 

[GEBER]

you are on the right track here. Instruments rattle in the entire frequency range, and you will have trouble reaching everything, that's just how it is.

You are using hat profiles and double gypsum. A 70 skp around the entire room. Set it 10 mm from the existing ceiling. In this, mount a primary rule of 45 mm 1200 mm from one wall and then 1200 cc to the next. Add hat profiles across the primary at 450 or 300 cc. Both work with double gypsum. Insulate with 45 insulation and put up your drywall. Then you have at least a 30 dB reduction upwards.

you will still get flank transmissions.

You can also do some room acoustic measures.
Of course, the kids should play music.

Hmmm.. okay.
70skp? I assume it's a form of steel stud.
Do you mean that I then lay 45 studs across the room with cc1200? The room's width is about 4 meters. Can these studs bear that span? Then the "hat profile" builds another 45 mm down. The whole thing should be about 125 mm in total with the 10 mm 70skp mounted from the ceiling. Then comes the double drywall.. which is an additional 25 mm, so we have 150 mm.
Have I understood this correctly then?

 

[Installation]

Hmmm.. okay. 70skp? I assume it is a type of steel beam. Do you then mean that I place 45 beams across the room with cc1200? The room's width is about 4 meters. Can these beams handle that span? Then the "hat profile" builds another 45 mm down. The whole thing should be about 125 mm total with the 10 mm 70skp mounted from the ceiling. Then double plasterboards are added.. which is an additional 25 mm and then we have 150 mm. Have I understood all of this correctly?

Here's from a supplier. https://www.gyproc.se/montering/und...ärsekundär-stålprofiler/montering-av-profiler Hat profiles are available as 25 and 45 mm. In this case, they have a stiffer primary beam instead of a regular r45. skp is a steel rail with a rubber sheet. You let the first layer be 5-10 mm away from the wall and seal tightly with "klantmos" which is what I call latex sealant. Then you apply layer 2 with offset long and short joints.

 

[z_bumbi]

Start by soundproofing the venue so that the players have a good environment. Then, a decent pair of noise-cancelling headphones costs 600-1000 SEK until you know if they will continue, both practicing and doing it specifically in your basement.

 

[ricebridge]

Another way is to place, for example, a drum kit and speakers on something that dampens the vibrations, i.e., structure-borne sound, which is notoriously difficult to protect against. One idea could be to place the drum kit and drummer on a plywood board, which rests on a couple of foam mattresses. But then you need to secure it here and there so that neither the plywood nor the drum kit slides around, for example, with the help of a rubber mat on a large roll from Biltema.

 

[Installation]

Another way is to place, for example, the drum set and speakers on something that dampens the vibrations, i.e., structural noise, which is notoriously difficult to protect against. One idea could be to place the drum set and drummer on a plywood platform, which is on a couple of foam mattresses. However, you need to secure it here and there so that neither the plywood nor the drum set slides around, for example, with the help of a rubber mat from a large roll from Biltema.

The worst is that it clutters down at 50Hz, and then it becomes difficult to dampen without a lot of weight and such. But at the same time, it doesn't hurt. Unless you're really unlucky and find a natural frequency, but then you have cosmic bad luck. That's kind of how Murphy became famous.

And you shouldn't dampen too hard without opening up with diffusers if you want to be precise. But maybe the focus is more on volume than on sound image. That's how it was during punk times in the teenage years at least

 

[GEBER]

Here is from a supplier.
[link]

Hat profiles are available in 25 and 45 mm. In this case, they have a stiffer primary profile instead of a regular r45.
Skp is a steel track with rubber membrane.
The first layer is set 5-10 mm from the wall and sealed tightly with "klantmos," which I call latex sealant.
Then you apply layer no. 2 with staggered long and short seams.

I think I understand it all now!
One thought, though. Skp 70 is 70 mm wide. Since the primary rule is 45 mm and attached to the top of skp70, the secondary rule (the hat profile) should extend past skp70 if the hat profile is also 45 mm, which it should be to insulate with 45 insulation, right? This means that the plasterboards can't be attached to skp 70 next to the walls as they align with the hat profile's plan. Would it be better to use skp 90?
I hope you can sort out this complicated description.☺️

 

[Installation]

I think I understand it all now!
One thought though. Skp 70 is 70 mm wide. Since the primary rule is 45 mm and attached to the top of skp70, the secondary rule (hat profile) should extend beyond skp70 if the hat profile is also 45 mm, which it should be to be able to insulate with 45 insulation? This means the plasterboards can't be attached to skp 70 next to the walls as they end up in the plane of the hat profile. Better to use skp 90?
Hope you can sort out the complicated description.☺️

The insulation lies on top of the hat profiles which you buy as 25 mm instead of 45.

 

[GEBER]

The insulation is placed on top of the hat profiles which you buy as 25 mm instead of 45.

Ok! Thanks for the help! Invaluable!
Would it be possible to build a similar construction with wooden studs?

 

[Installation]

Ok! Thank you for the help! Invaluable!
Would it be possible to build a similar construction with wooden studs?

Yes, it works. It will be heavier and might lose a bit in reduction depending on the attachment and stuff like that.

 

[GEBER]

Yes, it works. It gets heavier and may lose some reduction depending on mounting and such.

Hello again!
I've been scratching my head over this project. I have two heating pipes running in the ceiling, and ideally, I'd like to enclose these as well if I lower my ceiling. But I realize the ceiling height will be very low if I manage that. Plus, it's a question of cost and how much work time should be invested here. It might not be very smart if I want to add more radiators in the room.
I'm now considering just adding two more plasterboards to the existing ceiling and installing sound absorbers for a more pleasant soundscape in the room. This should still do something about the noise level in the room above, right?

 

[Installation]

Hello there again!
I've been scratching my head over this project. I have two elementrör going across the ceiling and I would preferably like to enclose these as well if I lower my ceiling. But I realize the ceiling height will be very low if I do that. It's also a question of cost and how much work time should be spent here. Perhaps not so smart either if I would want to add more elements in the room.
Now I'm considering just adding two more drywall sheets to the existing ceiling and installing sound absorbers for a more pleasant sound profile in the room. This should at least do something about the noise level in the upper room, right?

it won’t get worse anyway.

 

[Matti_75]

Look at the acoustic profile under the plasterboard instead. Then it's important to make it completely airtight at all connections.

 

[ricebridge]

Everything helps to a greater or lesser extent. Getting it completely silent is almost impossible, especially when retrofitting in an existing construction. Just as you said, you have to weigh the cost and effort against what you want, can, and will achieve.
Feel free to install double layers of gypsum board with staggered seams if there is room.