Skip furring strip and install drywall directly against vapor barrier in exterior bathroom wall?
What do you think? Is it really necessary to have a spaced siding between the regular drywall and the vapor barrier in the exterior wall of a bathroom? I will have a waterproof wallcovering on the wall and GVK advised me to keep the vapor barrier in the exterior wall. The existing studs are at 30cc, so adding spaced siding also seems like overkill. In the rest of the house, all the panels sit directly against the plastic, but now it's about the bathroom and maybe the small space created by having spaced siding is needed?
Bumpibump.
Anyone who has demolished a bathroom with drywall over the years who can calm my nerves?
The question is, do I need the air gap that the sparse panel creates, or can I lay the drywall directly against the plastic?
I've gotten the impression that a sparse panel on the wall is primarily to make space for electrical and piping.
No water will be poured against that wall, and waterproof wallpaper will be installed as the surface.
Anyone who has demolished a bathroom with drywall over the years who can calm my nerves?
The question is, do I need the air gap that the sparse panel creates, or can I lay the drywall directly against the plastic?
I've gotten the impression that a sparse panel on the wall is primarily to make space for electrical and piping.
No water will be poured against that wall, and waterproof wallpaper will be installed as the surface.
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You definitely don't need an air gap. Then I think it's strange that you've been advised to keep the vapor barrier. It's probably okay as long as the vapor diffusion resistance is greater in the wet room wallpaper than in the vapor barrier.
I would have removed the vapor barrier.
I would have removed the vapor barrier.
Sent an email to GVK asking about vapor barriers and double waterproof layers and they replied:
-"The hysteria around the presence of plastic sheets/vapor barriers is solely a consequence of tiled surfaces (whose adhesive retains moisture forever) combined with subpar (rolled/liquid-based) waterproof layers.
A vinyl floor covering does not retain any moisture. 15-20 minutes after showering, it is as dry as in the bedroom or living room.
Therefore, the plastic can be safely retained."
We replied and asked:
-"Today we have no plastic sheet in the wall because we tore down the old damaged one. Do you suggest we put up new vapor-tight plastic sheeting or is just a wet room wallpaper enough?"
GVK replied:
-"The plastic sheet is supposed to protect the insulation. If you remove it, it should overlap with the vinyl sheet in the wet room, which might be tricky. I would have remounted with overlap and tape if it were with me."
I think this sounds reasonable, so I have reinstalled a new vapor barrier and sealed against the ceiling and adjacent rooms.
-"The hysteria around the presence of plastic sheets/vapor barriers is solely a consequence of tiled surfaces (whose adhesive retains moisture forever) combined with subpar (rolled/liquid-based) waterproof layers.
A vinyl floor covering does not retain any moisture. 15-20 minutes after showering, it is as dry as in the bedroom or living room.
Therefore, the plastic can be safely retained."
We replied and asked:
-"Today we have no plastic sheet in the wall because we tore down the old damaged one. Do you suggest we put up new vapor-tight plastic sheeting or is just a wet room wallpaper enough?"
GVK replied:
-"The plastic sheet is supposed to protect the insulation. If you remove it, it should overlap with the vinyl sheet in the wet room, which might be tricky. I would have remounted with overlap and tape if it were with me."
I think this sounds reasonable, so I have reinstalled a new vapor barrier and sealed against the ceiling and adjacent rooms.
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The plastic in the outer wall can or should be removed, but there are differing opinions on the matter. I would cut the plastic 15-20 cm from the ceiling. You don't use furring strips on the walls, instead, you nail 45x45 on the outside of the vapor barrier, standing against other studs, and use the space for various wiring. Then, you fill the space with insulation. You run furring strips in the ceiling across the rafters and possibly the underside of floor joists.
Don't understand the question, you should have a flooring/wallpaper that is approved for wet rooms, as it acts as the waterproofing layer, so any vapor pressure behind (from inside to outside) only occurs if it gets damaged or if you don't do it correctly when installing sinks, shower walls, etc.Pompadom said:
Well, what do I know? I am just a layman and really have no idea, but I interpret GVK's response to my questions as if something happens to the surface layer and moisture gets through, only the gypsum is damaged. The vapor barrier prevents, just like in the rest of the house, the moisture from reaching further out and damaging the rest of the wall. This, along with the difficulty of connecting the wet room wallpaper to the existing vapor barrier in adjacent rooms, means that you can keep the vapor barrier when choosing wet room wallpaper as a surface layer.
Of course, I hope that the wet room wallpaper will remain intact and that no problems will arise.
I am just a layman and really have no idea, but I interpret GVK's response to my questions as if something happens to the surface layer and moisture gets through, only the gypsum is damaged. The vapor barrier prevents, just like in the rest of the house, the moisture from reaching further out and damaging the rest of the wall. This, along with the difficulty of connecting the wet room wallpaper to the existing vapor barrier in adjacent rooms, means that you can keep the vapor barrier when choosing wet room wallpaper as a surface layer.Of course, I hope that the wet room wallpaper will remain intact and that no problems will arise.
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