Hey!
I've built an inner wall, about 5 meters long, which I've covered with OSB boards. I'm about to drywall the wall and have a few questions.
Is it okay to screw the drywall into the OSB instead of screwing into the studs behind it? Of course, I'll screw into the studs where possible, but since I've spaced the studs at 600 cc and will be using 900 drywall, it won't line up well. There's also a door in the wall, so using 1200 drywall straight across won't work if I wanted to do that.
And the second question: the ceiling height is 2900 mm. What's the easiest way to join the drywall at this height? There's no need for a stud at the joint since I have an OSB board, right? The OSB board should be enough to support the joint?
I've built an inner wall, about 5 meters long, which I've covered with OSB boards. I'm about to drywall the wall and have a few questions.
Is it okay to screw the drywall into the OSB instead of screwing into the studs behind it? Of course, I'll screw into the studs where possible, but since I've spaced the studs at 600 cc and will be using 900 drywall, it won't line up well. There's also a door in the wall, so using 1200 drywall straight across won't work if I wanted to do that.
And the second question: the ceiling height is 2900 mm. What's the easiest way to join the drywall at this height? There's no need for a stud at the joint since I have an OSB board, right? The OSB board should be enough to support the joint?
It is sufficient to screw into the OSB. Just make sure not to use screws that are too long if you have, for example, electrical conduits behind it....
No support is needed at the joint in height.
However, try to overlap the plasterboard so that the joints don’t end up in the same place as the OSB.
And remember to bevel the plasterboard at the short sides so you can get filler into these joints!
Good luck!
No support is needed at the joint in height.
However, try to overlap the plasterboard so that the joints don’t end up in the same place as the OSB.
And remember to bevel the plasterboard at the short sides so you can get filler into these joints!
Good luck!
Thanks! Yes, I would prefer 3000mm sheets. Seems a bit difficult to find though.crazytok said:It's enough to screw into the osb. Just make sure not to use too long screws if you have, for example, electric conduits behind.... No stud is needed at the seam in height. Try, however, to overlap the drywall so that the seams don't line up with the osb. And don't forget to bevel the drywall on the short sides so you can fill these seams with joint compound!
Good luck!
But when I bevel the edges, I also use tape, right? Won't there be a bump when I apply joint compound then?
Another thing: does it matter how the osb is positioned around the door? I'm thinking about the risk of cracking. Can the osb be joined along the door frame as long as the door is wrapped with drywall, and vice versa? Or should neither of the sheets be joined along the frame?
"But when I bevel the edges, do I also use tape? Won't there be a raised area when I putty?"
Oh yes, but you haven't noticed it in any house you've been to so far, all ceilings in larger rooms have this.
Just kidding, you apply a wide layer of putty out from the tape so the total puttying becomes about 20-30 cm wide.
Depending on how the light falls on the wall, it shows or not.
Oh yes, but you haven't noticed it in any house you've been to so far, all ceilings in larger rooms have this.
Just kidding, you apply a wide layer of putty out from the tape so the total puttying becomes about 20-30 cm wide.
Depending on how the light falls on the wall, it shows or not.
I would make sure to extend beyond the door on the "handle side" with one of the boards, preferably both, to avoid cracks if someone closes the door carelessly (read: slams the door). On the hinge side, it's less sensitive if it is properly screwed into the stud, etc.Hoffmeister said:
Ok, but is it okay to splice OSB on the height next to the door as in the picture? The plasterboard will surround the entire door, so this shouldn't cause any cracks, right?Testarn said:

Ok! Just a little worried about jointing OSB beside the door! But the gypsum will surround the door anyway. And no joints in the same place!crazytok said:
The OSB will be jointed right above the door. So then it's good if I joint the gypsum about 20 cm beside it, right?
If I were you, I would have placed a full plasterboard on both sides of the door. Then a smaller piece in between (assuming it works with the OSB joints, of course.)
But if not, 20cm overlap should suffice, even though I would have preferred to overlap more if possible!
But if not, 20cm overlap should suffice, even though I would have preferred to overlap more if possible!
But if I do that, the plasterboard joints will be right above the door frame, won't they? Or does it not matter as long as the OSB encloses the door? Because now the OSB board joints end up right above the door.crazytok said:
S
sinuslinus
Träskalle
· Östergötlands län
· 5 723 posts
sinuslinus
Träskalle
- Östergötlands län
- 5,723 posts
The plaster manufacturers recommend at least a 100 mm cutout above the doors.
So it's not as crazytok writes.
There is a picture here:
http://www.knaufdanogips.se/index.php/montage/montage-system-innervagg/montage-av-skivor-allmant
And buy 300 plaster. Much easier and better than splicing.
So it's not as crazytok writes.
There is a picture here:
http://www.knaufdanogips.se/index.php/montage/montage-system-innervagg/montage-av-skivor-allmant
And buy 300 plaster. Much easier and better than splicing.
Agree with the 300 plasterboard.sinuslinus said:
Regarding the joint above the doorway, I would say that there are no problems whatsoever since you have OSB underneath. (since you don't have your OSB joint there!)
But sure, make a 100mm recess and you'll have both belt and suspenders! 👍🏻
