As above, the question is, How can I know if my lime-rendered facade is single-stage sealed?
House from 1897 original wood paneling, in the 1950s rendered facade.
 
Claes Sörmland
The year of the rendering suggests that it may have been done traditionally, i.e., by nailing up panel/reed or other reinforcement and throwing the mortar directly on. Later, the technique came with nailing up thicker insulation boards and throwing the mortar on them. But an air gap doesn't sound like a solution for rendering an old house in the 50s.
 
When it comes to stucco facades, there is a difference between single-stage and single-stagesealed. Older houses, as Clas writes above, have stucco on splinter panels, reed mats, spikes, or similar materials and are in that sense made in one stage, but can breathe.

The mistake that Myresjöhus and others made is using dense XPS or similar as an insulating intermediate layer and stucco substrate directly on the wooden frame. As known, it didn't go so well. Then it became single-stage sealed.
 
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JohanLun
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Plank frames often had an asphalt felt on the outside of the frame, a so-called förhydningspapp. In connection with rendering or facade bricks, a denser underlay felt was often used. The important thing is that the plaster and what's supporting it can breathe outwards.
 
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MagHam
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We have rushes underneath. Time to redo it I guess but nice to know anyway. Thought about doing a wood panel instead :)
 
kulle
That was a shame :cry:
 
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Stefan N
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kulle kulle said:
That was a shame :cry:
What?
 
Guess kulle meant that plaster is nice ;) which it is if it is intact and well-maintained.
 
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kulle
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70-year-old plaster in orange is not very nice, plus I live in an archipelago environment where the style is mostly old wooden houses.
 
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MagHam
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OK. Even though it is more work and effort, I strongly recommend knocking down the plaster, the mat, and possibly the cracked panel, and then building a moderately thick layer with insulation+panel.
This way, the roof overhangs and similar features retain their lengths and proportions.
 
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Roger K and 2 others
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M MagHam said:
OK. Even though it's more work and effort, I strongly recommend then knocking down the plaster, mat, and any fracture panel, and then building a moderately thick layer with insulation+panel.
That way, eaves and similar things retain their lengths and proportions.
Oh geez. I almost suspected that
 
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MagHam
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