Screw studs to interior wall through parquet?

[pysen78]

Hello everyone!
I'm about to frame an interior wall to divide a living room into a smaller living room and an office. The floor joists are concrete, and I was planning to screw and plug into the concrete. (I have a bunch of those concrete nails in the right length, but I don't dare to use them. It feels a bit irreversible to nail something in.) In any case:

Should I cut a groove into the parquet so that the stud lies against the concrete? I assume the parquet "floats" on top of the floor, and I'm wondering if I will lock it causing it to rise in humid weather. The advantage of not cutting a groove is, besides saving time/work, that you can remove the wall again without it being noticeable except for some holes.

If I cut a groove, do I need to use a sill gasket or something similar? Under the concrete floor is the garage, and it's not damp, but the floor is connected to the aerated concrete wall, and I notice it conducts cold, so I assume it conducts moisture to some extent as well?

A little bonus question. The ceiling is plasterboard on the underside of the roof trusses. If for space reasons we want the wall between two of the roof trusses (it will run parallel), is it sufficient to molly plug the top stud to the ceiling?

Sorry if this has been answered in a similar thread, I've searched quite a bit and gone through several "building interior wall threads" but haven't found anything.

Grateful for any answers.

 

[Stefan N]

Saw out for the rule, it's not good to screw down the floor.

 

[Jan-Å]

If you use plugs in the concrete slab, the wall will remain stable with normal "use," so what you do in the ceiling doesn't matter much. Molly bolts work well enough. You're attaching to walls too, right?
I've seen partition walls held with double-sided tape to avoid damaging floors and ceilings more than necessary, and it worked excellently since the lateral forces on a partition wall are usually quite low.

 

[barajag]

Hello everyone!
I am about to put up a partition wall to divide a living room into a smaller living room and a study. The floor joists are concrete, and I was thinking of screwing and plugging into the concrete. (I have a bunch of those concrete nails in the right length, but I'm not confident using them. It feels a bit irreversible to nail them in.) In any case:

Should I cut a groove into the parquet so that the stud rests against the concrete? I assume the parquet "floats" on top of the floor, and I'm wondering if I will lock it in place, risking it lifting when the weather gets humid. The advantage of not cutting a groove is, besides saving time/work, that you can remove the wall again with only a few holes visible.

If I cut a groove, do I need to use frame paper or something similar? Under the concrete floor is the garage, and it is not humid, but the floor is connected to the light concrete wall, and I notice it conducts cold, so I assume it conducts some moisture too?

A little bonus question. The ceiling is gypsum on the underside of the roof trusses. If, due to space reasons, we want the wall between two roof trusses (it will run parallel), can I just use molly plugs to secure the top stud in the wall then?

Sorry if this has been answered in a similar thread, I have searched a lot and gone through several "build partition wall" threads but haven't found anything.

Grateful for answers

For several years, I had a wall set up in the living room, which I just fastened with slightly too long studs (about 4-5 mm longer). When we moved, I dismantled it without any marks on the floor or ceiling, although I did plug it into the walls because in case of dismantling, I would have to re-wallpaper since I had different wallpapers in the two rooms.

Good luck

 

[pysen78]

Thanks everyone for the tips! Then I'll probably cut up the parquet after all, my partner and I have thought about it a bit too, and concluded that the wall should probably stay for good, so the parquet becomes secondary.

Molly plug in the ceiling then, and plugs in the adjoining walls. There will also be a door hole, so I want to be on the safe side.

Thanks again, this allows me to calmly plan the work on the wall!