This is part of my house (hopefully the worst part) where the load-bearing outer wall is hanging in the air. Very unattractive, actually. I thought I could do something like this but wanted to know what others think:
I take a rough beam, like a carry beam for a porch roof or something, screw it horizontally above all the rot with two long French screws through each standing plank. Then I use three to four jacks that I place outdoors at the foundation wall on cement slabs, fasten standing beams against the horizontal carry beam, and where I get a gap of a few facade boards, I cut away the rot-damaged parts, lay sill paper and sill with half lap joints, and then put in standing pieces of the same dimension or several smaller ones, and last but not least, one can like nail from the side to stabilize the beams. I thought that you set the joints at different heights and kind of stabilize them with the next standing beam/plank.
Inside the frame, I will then nail horizontally tongued boards as it was before. Do you think it will work? Can you support in the same way when installing new windows in the existing holes that need to be enlarged? Today, there is a lintel resting on the posts next to the window openings in the facade, but that lintel is shorter than the windows that need to be fitted now, so if I just widen the holes, it might fall down. So I thought I could support above and use standing beams on the sides, make wider holes, remove the lintel, and then make a new one longer than the new hole, notch it for the cladding, and fit it in, or how do you actually do it?
It's just a part of a wall with standing tongue-and-groove 2" planks; nothing will collapse because of that.
Saw off the damaged part, put in a new sill and wedge in a new plank replacement so it fits snugly; that should be enough.
Saw off the damaged part, put in a new sill and wedge in a new plank replacement so it fits snugly; that should be enough.
Thank you for your ideas. I am the ignorant and therefore overly cautious type. I have bought real steel staples that I have screwed onto a rough wooden plank about 3 pieces on two meters. I had intended to place this under the last roof beam before the wall and put a support beam up towards the ceiling and tighten as much as I can.
After that, I thought I would do as I mentioned before with a jack on the outside - which I thought would prevent any eventual settling. I thought that if you could press up the healthy timber just a few mm, maybe that would be enough?
After that, I thought I would do as I mentioned before with a jack on the outside - which I thought would prevent any eventual settling. I thought that if you could press up the healthy timber just a few mm, maybe that would be enough?
If I were you, you should perhaps read up on how an exterior wall should be constructed to be considered professionally done today. If you renovate and attach this during a sale, but you are just patching it the same way as in the 40s, you should be aware of the issue of hidden defects.
Thanks Byggis1976 - I plan to hire a construction company that will tell me what to do, then I'll continue on my own, and they'll come back to check before I seal the repairs behind insulation, cladding, and facade. The entire job with the whole house will be photographed, measured, documented so that when I sell my house, there's a complete binder with photographs, drawings, measurements, and material specifications, including all inspection documents and guarantees (I will, of course, outsource wet rooms, sealing, electricity). Not because all of this might be required, but because that's how I would have wanted my house documented if I were the buyer. To be on the safe side, I will sell through a real estate agent and have a house that is inspected in every conceivable way and also insure against complaints.
All repairs and standards will be adapted to modern regulations and measurements
Where there are missing fastenings or similar in the structure, such will be installed. Since I'm going to tear everything down anyway, it's quite foolish not to add what's missing to meet modern professional standards, I think.
All repairs and standards will be adapted to modern regulations and measurements
Where there are missing fastenings or similar in the structure, such will be installed. Since I'm going to tear everything down anyway, it's quite foolish not to add what's missing to meet modern professional standards, I think.