I'm planning to expand my kitchen into the green area on the drawing. I'm wondering if I can safely take down the red-marked walls? What I'm concerned about is whether there's any risk of them being load-bearing. Between the basement and the floor, there are concrete slabs. Is there anything else I should consider in this project that you have any opinions on, anything at all? I'm attaching the drawings here as well as a sketch of the new kitchen. The house was built in '64. The blåbetong walls in question on the floor are about 9cm thick.
The risk that they would be load-bearing is small, partly considering the thickness but also considering the placement. By concrete cassettes, I assume you mean prefabricated concrete elements that span the entire width of the house (excluding the stairwell).
You lose both the cloakroom and the toilet in the process. The hall isn't big enough to make anything useful out of it. Are you going to build something porch-like at the entrance so you have room for that? The entrance has no wind protection in its current form, and that's needed in most cases. An extension would solve all three problems.
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Byggaren
Now I'm going to tackle this again after several years of inactivity.
Well, unfortunately, it's not possible to expand in that direction, I'm in a rävsax
The question remains, how is it with these 2 walls, how can I find out if they are not load-bearing? Are there any tricks to draw this conclusion?
These walls are hardly load-bearing. The load-bearing wall in this case should be the one that runs between the garages and up to the stairs and around towards the exterior wall. (Approximately in the middle of the house). I see that you have concrete slabs between the basement/floor levels. Then it should be risk-free. Do the concrete slabs run in one piece between the exterior walls?
Thank you for your response. The cassettes go from one outer wall to the heavy walls in the middle of the house. Then new cassettes come on the other side of this. In other words, they are divided. Would that affect anything?
No, there are no joints there. Looked a bit at how the roof trusses are laid. They are not aligned with the walls that are meant to be demolished. Is that a good sign? Marked in blue.
Yes, one should not reply in a thread in the middle of the night when one ought to be sleeping instead. Answered as if not making sense. The wall I've been rambling about is in the basement, but now we're on the entry level. The walls you want to remove, I would argue, have nothing to do with load-bearing. I assume you have self-supporting trusses and that we're talking about a single-story house. If you check the distance (in the attic) from the left blue truss you drew, and the next two to the left, I assume they are in the entry, without support underneath. If the wall around the stairs is to remain, then two trusses have support.
Regarding the floor plan, I would probably have shortened the workbench toward the entrance so that you can fit a coat rack and maybe even a closet in the entryway. It would be nice to be able to hang up your jacket there and also take off your shoes.
Don't know what I did but the post was published before I was finished. I was looking at the drawing one more time and saw that you have a setback (recess) in the exterior wall at the entrance. In the kitchen, you can place a corner cabinet there, so it harmonizes better with the coat rack/wardrobe in the hallway.
Well, there is quite a lot of space in the Entrance, so it will be a kitchen in the entire area. I'm interpreting from everyone who answered that it's risk-free to take down the walls anyway. Or is there something else I should check...
JanneL just to be sure, took a couple of pictures of the roof trusses. Do they say anything about whether they are self-supporting or not? They are nailed at the bottom to something that resembles a load-bearing beam. I don't know if it goes across the entire roof or stops at the ridge; there is floor chipboard and insulation in the way.
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