I have an old sloped ceiling on the upper floor made of tretex from the late 40s. Now I'm considering leveling the surface with renovation plasterboard while I'm fixing everything.
How do I best/easiest attach the plasterboard?
Is it enough to glue and if so, what glue, or do I need to screw as well?
All ideas and experiences are welcome.
How do I best/easiest attach the plasterboard?
Is it enough to glue and if so, what glue, or do I need to screw as well?
All ideas and experiences are welcome.
I have made the same journey in my living room. Renovation plasterboard on the walls and 13 mm plasterboard on the ceiling. Screwed, not glued. First considered glue, but was advised against it by a carpenter. Maybe there is someone else who has positive experiences with gluing?
It's nice when you're done and have gotten rid of decades of marks in the soft tretex.
It's nice when you're done and have gotten rid of decades of marks in the soft tretex.
I have also screwed renovation plasterboard (6mm) onto Tretex. Often, you have a plank wall/ceiling behind these soft cozy boards (great for throwing darts at) so you probably don't need to look for studs. Tip! Running electrical conduit here is easy for things like lamp sockets before the plasterboard goes on. Use a router with a 16mm bit and then insert the VP16 conduit, super easy. You’ll have to deal with localized snowfall in the room during the process. ;-)
Have also screwed gypsum onto tretex, slightly longer screw so they attach to the wooden wall behind just fine, no problems!!
I screwed 6 mm drywall onto my bedroom walls. It didn’t work at all because the log wall behind was so crooked. This meant they had placed shims of various thicknesses at the floor and ceiling.
Since there were no studs at all that matched the 1200 mm width of the renovation drywall, it resulted in many strange seams and also "nice" bumps when I screwed in the drywall where there was air behind the tretex.
I think I pulled every other screw through the paper on the drywall as well.
I probably would have chosen 13 mm today if I had known how the end result would be.
The only advantage as I see it, as markusee wrote, is that I managed to get all the electrical into the tretex with the help of a circular saw since I didn’t have a router then.
Anders.
Since there were no studs at all that matched the 1200 mm width of the renovation drywall, it resulted in many strange seams and also "nice" bumps when I screwed in the drywall where there was air behind the tretex.
I think I pulled every other screw through the paper on the drywall as well.
I probably would have chosen 13 mm today if I had known how the end result would be.
The only advantage as I see it, as markusee wrote, is that I managed to get all the electrical into the tretex with the help of a circular saw since I didn’t have a router then.
Anders.
We were advised by the carpenter not to use 6 mm gypsum, so we went with 13 instead, a bit more stable. As some others have said earlier, it's really convenient to groove for the electrical pipes in the tretex, we used a circular saw for parallel grooves. Initially thought about buying a router to make the grooves, but the electrician advised against it, saying there would be less dust with the saw. However, the holes for the sockets need to be deeper than the electrical pipes, so we had to use a hole saw on the extremely hard plank walls. Three drills died from that job...
I don't know if I would have dared to glue the gypsum, especially not on the ceiling.. Tretex can delaminate, I would have preferred to screw.
Now we've come to the fun part of making new reveals and extending window and door frames to the new level...
Good luck
I don't know if I would have dared to glue the gypsum, especially not on the ceiling.. Tretex can delaminate, I would have preferred to screw.
Now we've come to the fun part of making new reveals and extending window and door frames to the new level...
Good luck
I would argue that there is less dust with a router than with a circular saw (with a vacuum connected to both). At least if you compare budget tools. The advantage of the router is that it seals relatively tightly around the cutting area, so you get fairly good dust collection (even with a "cheaper" router), while the saw is pretty good at throwing out dust because the blade is not completely enclosed (at least not on my B&D ugly saw). Of course, if you were to saw with Festool's TS55, you would probably get less dust with the saw, but I am not planning to put my TS55 into a wall with nails...
/Otto
/Otto