Renovation drywall on fiberboard

[spikar-på-skruvar]

I have read a bit on the forum and the internet at large and just want to confirm that I understand what I'm reading correctly before I go all-in.

In my 70s house that I recently gained access to, there is tretex and wallpaper in most of the rooms. I want to paint and am trying to find the best way to create a good surface to start from. From what I've read, it's a lot of (and dirty) work to tear out tretex and I should still keep it on exterior walls. So I'm leaning towards simply not tearing it out and going for plastering over the tretex.

The walls are almost entirely straight except around the chimney breast where the previous owner replaced the tretex with plasterboard. Also, there's a place where the wall between two rooms probably only consists of closets. From what I understand, the risk with regular plasterboard is really that tretex is a bit too spongy, and the screws can easily pull through.

Am I right in thinking that I will get somewhat straight walls with renovation plasterboard with a slightly lower chance of the screws tearing through the paper on the plasterboard?

Follow-up question. How do I go about doors and windows? Is there new trim that is routed for renovation or standard plasterboard from the factory, or do I have to route it myself?

 

[Stuff]

As far as possible, I would avoid using renovation plasterboard and go with regular plasterboard instead. I have tried both and find it easier to get the screws to sink in just right in the plaster without going through the paper. Even though the paper holds on renovation plasterboard, it tends to wrinkle and/or rise, creating a bulge around the screw that is harder to smooth out with filler. The tretex should not affect it, as you should choose screws long enough to go through the tretex and get a proper hold in whatever you have behind it.

 

[spikar-på-skruvar]

I would avoid using renovation plaster as much as possible and go with regular plaster instead.

What were your experiences with both? I suspect those who have had problems with plaster had very wavy/non-flat walls to begin with?

 

[Stuff]

What were your experiences with both? I suspect that those who have had problems with gypsum started with very uneven/non-flat walls?

Sorry. I just saw that the answer became a bit vague. My experiences were that it was easier to get a nice result that could be easily smoothed with little effort if you use regular gypsum.
Harder to get good results with renovation gypsum, which easily becomes lumpy around the screws.

 

[spikar-på-skruvar]

Sorry. I just noticed that the answer became a bit vague. My experiences were that it was easier to get a nice result that you could easily spackle smooth with little effort if you use regular plasterboard.
Harder to get a good result with the renovation plasterboard, which easily gets lumpy around the screws

Thanks. Just another aspect to consider simply! The original idea was to go with regular 13mm plasterboard but when I started looking for info on that, it seemed more to suggest that renovation plasterboard was easier to use on tretex.

I think it has more to do with what lies behind the tretex than the tretex itself.

Sorry. I just noticed that the answer became a bit vague. My experiences were that it was easier to get a nice result that you could easily spackle smooth with little effort if you use regular plasterboard.
Harder to get a good result with the renovation plasterboard, which easily gets lumpy around the screws

 

[snuttjulle]

Now, I do like my tretex so I would never put a hard surface on it. But that wasn't the point. I guess you don't have just tretex on the walls but planks behind it. And if so, then there's no problem with using double drywall screws as they will get a good grip.

 

[raveper]

Regular plaster is cheaper, though.

 

[Dsl]

The first room I renovated became a mix, took down some walls and put renovation plasterboard over some.

After that, I have demolished...and soon we will have a tretex-free house.
The only advantage I see is that it insulates a bit, and if you're going to keep it, I also vote for regular plasterboard on top.

Sure, it creates some dust and takes a while to tear down, but compared to how the rest of the renovation dusts, I can't see it as a problem.

 

[Småbrukaren]

I got a moisture damage due to a leaking radiator that sprayed the wall full and the tretex absorbed like a sponge. I took down two exterior walls in a couple of hours. Pulling nails was the most tedious part. Then we framed up to take the opportunity to install more electrical outlets, and plywood and drywall were attached to the frames. Windows and doors were given new casings to align properly.
ALL the carpenters I consulted about renovation drywall just shake their heads. "At best, the board is intact when you get it home from the store," was an answer I got once!

 

[spikar-på-skruvar]

After that, I have torn down...and soon we'll have a Tretex-free house.

What has been the benefit of tearing down in your experience?

 

[spikar-på-skruvar]

I pulled down two exterior walls in a couple of hours. Pulling out nails was the most boring part.

They must have been paid per nail, right?

 

[Småbrukaren]

There weren't Xbox and such back then so people simply amused themselves by nailing. Preferably nails that can't be pulled out. Or hammered in. The baseboards in the house from 1938 were nailed with 5-inch cut nails Half the wall came with it!

 

[pappel]

There weren't Xbox and such at that time, so we simply entertained ourselves with hammering. Preferably nails that can't be pulled out.

And no screw gun either...

 

[raveper]

There weren't Xbox and such at that time, so we simply entertained ourselves by hammering. Preferably nails that can't be pulled out. Or driven in. The floor moldings in the house from 1938 were nailed with 5-inch cut nails Half the wall came with it!

Pulled out a similar one from a ceiling molding. One was a bit afraid that the upper floor would come crashing down.