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7 replies
Remove the ceiling moldings completely and go without during renovation, the best solution?
I'm about to start renovating a few rooms indoors and have increasingly decided that I want to go without ceiling moldings. I'm also thinking about trying to remove the baseboards too, but we'll see if that's feasible in our house.
In the ceiling, I'll replace the old pine planks with drywall because I like smooth surfaces, but how do I make it perfect along the edges and corners? Should the drywall be flush against the wall, or should there be a gap there? And should I then use putty, or use something like latex in the space between the wall and the ceiling?
The house has lightweight concrete walls with wooden planks and drywall on the inside, built in 1960 if that matters.
Grateful for tips, and those of you who want me to use ceiling moldings can keep your opinions to yourselves.
In the ceiling, I'll replace the old pine planks with drywall because I like smooth surfaces, but how do I make it perfect along the edges and corners? Should the drywall be flush against the wall, or should there be a gap there? And should I then use putty, or use something like latex in the space between the wall and the ceiling?
The house has lightweight concrete walls with wooden planks and drywall on the inside, built in 1960 if that matters.
Grateful for tips, and those of you who want me to use ceiling moldings can keep your opinions to yourselves.
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 582 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,582 posts

So, if the room was 2.8m long, I cut the 3m boards.
I did it in this style
https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/slaett-gipstak.32434/
I've also done gypsum for door and window reveals.
Tape in the corners of the walls as well; they've probably been up for a couple of years without any cracks, the ones between the ceiling and the wall for about half a year.
On the board in the picture, I first cut off the beveled edge on the side towards the wall.
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I have also considered going without trim around windows and doors.
How did you manage to make it look nice against the frames and window sills? Is it recessed so you can place the drywall against it, or did you just fill the gap with plaster?
How did you manage to make it look nice against the frames and window sills? Is it recessed so you can place the drywall against it, or did you just fill the gap with plaster?
Snailman
Member
· Västra Götaland
· 5 582 posts
Snailman
Member
- Västra Götaland
- 5,582 posts
The walls are frames around the windows, then the windows are about 15 mm smaller on each side for adjustment, so I first placed an OSB board in the reveal around and then drywall on top of it, so the drywall would reach into the frame a bit.Grillen said:
I placed the drywall flush against the window, then filled and painted it. I held a putty knife against the window and then rolled with a small roller against it to avoid getting paint on the frame.
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I only did the caulking and painting myself.
Looks good.
If you look closely, it's probably nicer if you're more careful with tape and plaster, etc., but it's not like you're standing on a stool every day inspecting the wall/ceiling corners
Looks good.
If you look closely, it's probably nicer if you're more careful with tape and plaster, etc., but it's not like you're standing on a stool every day inspecting the wall/ceiling corners
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