To start with, please bear with my terminology. I'm not a carpenter, just a happy amateur who likes to do things myself.
I live in a row house (in the middle of the row) and have a patio at the back that I replaced this summer. I am now going to build a conservatory on this. Now to my problem. I am going to lay a polycarbonate roof on a beam structure but have issues with how to attach the beams to the house. The easiest way is to illustrate with images that I made in SketchUp.
The 45x220 beam I will screw along the entire length as potential attachment in the sloping part (the black and white details in the image) does not fit with the beam spacing. The beam will be screwed with Essve HEX 10x120.
The beams will be 45x195 and slope 7 degrees.
So how do I attach the beams most easily? Can I use construction screws like Essve ET-T 8.2x130? How does it work with angle brackets or joist hangers?
Ideally, I also want it to be as nice a solution as possible. Therefore, I think joist hangers and brackets are out...
I had installed joist hangers where I wanted the beams and attached them with a screw on each side. Placed the beams and screwed in a screw diagonally from each side of the beam. Then I would have removed the joist hangers and added an extra screw from underneath. This way, all the beams are exactly aligned, and you achieve it easily. My assessment is that it holds. Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable can confirm if it actually does. I would also recommend pre-drilling.
It is really not an optimal solution. I think you should consider completely different options. What are the measurements of the patio roof (length and width)? What does the house roof look like (especially the slope and roofing material)? With normal patio dimensions in snow zone 2, the load on the inner support of the roof beams can easily be 600 kg. If there is a risk of snow pockets, it can become significantly larger.
Thank you @Johan456 and @Matti_75. Okay, construction screws seem to be the way to go. I assume Johan456 also meant construction screws. Are three enough? One from each side and one from underneath? Can you place the screws too close together and lose strength? Is it okay as long as you just make sure the wood doesn't crack, i.e. not placing them in the same "track" in the wood?
@ArneTW good idea but I don't have any contacts nearby. The funny thing is, I could have done it myself 20 years ago. Back then, I worked in a forge with contract manufacturing. I miss sometimes being able to construct things. Today I sit in an office working with computers for the past 20 years...
It is really not an optimal solution. I think you should consider completely different options. What are the measurements of the patio roof (length and width)? What does the house's roof look like (particularly the slope and roof material)? With normal patio dimensions in snow zone 2, the load on the inner supports of the roof beams can easily become 600 kg. If there is a risk of snow pockets, it can become significantly larger.
The patio roof will be 6.5m wide and 3.4m deep. Two sections with 3-part sliding doors stand 3 meters out. A total of 6 roof beams. The outer beams will be supported by a 70 sparr each, standing on the patio and screwed into the wall.
The house's roof is angled towards the black section. So the roof slope is 45 degrees. The height of the roof is 5-6 meters (upper floor plus attic that can be furnished (maybe the next project... )).
That construction screw can manage quite large loads after all. If I interpret Essve's guide (https://www.essve.se/wcsstore/CAS/PIM/ESSVE/docs/1093189.pdf) correctly, that is... A screw at the right angle with the stars aligned seems to handle 3-4 hundred kilos on its own.
Looking around the area, the neighbors have significantly weaker constructions. But, it's not easy and that's why I'm asking for help.
You should construct according to the snow zone you live in and with the right dimension of roof beams etc.
Also consider that columns should support the load of the patio room, which normal decking usually cannot withstand.
Couldn't you open up and fasten the ceiling beams inside?
During the summer, I built a patio and had a similar situation where I removed the panel and fastened the roof beams inside the roof trusses. All to avoid seeing any ugly joist hangers. I used Essve ET-T construction screws.
Attached are some pictures from the construction time.
Or you can place a beam against the wall and lay the roof beams against it. Then you avoid putting strain on the roof structure.
The problem is that I need to reach the height I have in the picture. This means I need to be about 80mm away from the wall before reaching the beam. It wouldn't look nice.
I've seen that they recommend laminated wood in the instructions for the roof. I'll probably switch to 42x180 laminated wood for the beams instead. Thanks for the reminder. On the other hand, my problem doesn't change.
I'm aware of the snow load. Snow zone 2 with 3 meters between support points, which means I can avoid cross beams. Not entirely out of the question that I'll add them anyway. The video is okay. The document I linked to is better...
The screws are not the problem, rather it's the way of using the wooden beams. Making the ends wedge-shaped is inappropriate. Additionally, I think that 45x195 is too weak a dimension if the actual span is 3 meters. Either you do as @optimum suggests and place a beam against the wall, or you create a freestanding column/beam construction that stands a bit out from the wall and on which the beams can rest. If the roof pitch of the house is 45°, you should expect quite substantial snow loads. You can't go up and shovel a channel plastic roof.
Can't you open up and attach the roof beams inside?
This summer I built a conservatory and had a similar situation where I removed the panel and attached the roof beams inside the trusses. All to avoid seeing any ugly joist hangers. Used Essve ET-T construction screws.
Attaching some pictures from the construction period.[image] [image]
Thanks. Haven't had the energy to remove the panel and check inside yet. I'll probably do that this weekend if time allows. I've only checked by driving a few long screws into the panel joints, where it's nailed. I drove a 100 screw all the way in. But I will definitely take a look underneath. That's kind of a prerequisite for the whole thing.
Vi vill skicka notiser för ämnen du bevakar och händelser som berör dig.
Can I use construction screws like Essve ET-T 8.2x130? How does it work with angle brackets or joist hangers?
optimum said: