The house is from 65 Cross-section diagram of a house showing structural elements, roof trusses, and measurements. Includes a chimney and two vertical walls with indicated heights. Floor plan of a house showing rooms with measurements, including living room, kitchen, two bedrooms, bathroom, and a hall. Text description detailing roof construction materials and measurements, mentioning wooden beams, fiberboard, and red two-curved roof tiles. Building construction specifications document detailing wall and roof structure, including notes on load-bearing walls and truss spacing.
The blue line is a wall that I put up myself in 1997 to get an extra bedroom. Removed this wall last week.
When I sawed the studs, the handsaw got stuck, indicating that the ceiling dropped a few mm.
Floor plan sketch with colored lines indicating walls for potential removal or modification in a renovation project, focusing on structural concerns.
I now want to remove a part of the wall in the green area, including the door frame, to open up into the kitchen.
Also want to create an opening in the red area, as some kind of bar/table. (One of the rafters lies in that area.)
To the left of the yellow line, the rafters are closer together, ~105cm(ish) CC. To the right of the yellow line, it's ~120cm CC.
With the help of the construction description and your expertise, I want to figure out if there will be any problems doing what I intend, or am I way off?. Are these (red, green) walls load-bearing/stabilizing walls?
Most concerned about the ceiling dropping a bit when I removed the partition wall. Could the previous owner have skimped on the lumber?

It is intended to be ~like this:
Wall with a doorway view to a dining area, a chair nearby, and tools on a table, indicating renovation in progress. Interior wall with green-marked door frame for removal, red-marked area for bar opening. Scene includes a chair and dining room glimpse. Opening in a kitchen wall with white cabinets and a bar stool in front; the adjacent wall features a removed doorway revealing framing.
I know there are a lot of pictures :-)

Thanks for the help and thoughts.
 
BirgitS
Since the roof trusses are free-spanning, no walls on the floor below are load-bearing. The house may have settled a bit so that it has become such that a wall carries some weight, which could explain why the handsaw got stuck a little. Removing a bit of the green wall and opening up a "window" in the red wall shouldn't affect the stability.

It's nice for a change to have someone who doesn't want a completely open floor plan :)
 
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MagHam and 2 others
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The green one should absolutely not be a problem.

Regarding the red one, I think that the wall in that direction is not load-bearing in itself, but it does support the ceilings. When you built the blue wall, you probably tightened it up, and it has now settled back. If you make the hole HIGHER than you intended and place a beam at the top that supports the vertical beams you find in the wall, you should be safe. However, I won't comment on dimensions.
 
BirgitS BirgitS said:
Since they are free-standing trusses, no walls on the floor below are load-bearing. However, the house may have settled a bit, which might have caused a wall to carry a little weight, possibly the reason why the saw got slightly stuck. Removing part of the green wall and opening a "window" in the red wall shouldn't affect the stability.

Nice for a change with someone who doesn't want a completely open floor plan :)
Thank you for the reassuring explanation for the saw. Probably tensioned the studs (used kärnvirke too :-) )
 
Anna_H Anna_H said:
The green one should absolutely not be any problem at all.

Regarding the red one, I think that the wall in that direction is not load-bearing in itself, but supports the ceilings. When you built the blue wall you probably tightened it up, and it fell back now.
If you make the hole HIGHER than you intended and set a beam at the top that carries the vertical beams you find in the wall, you should be safe. However, I won't comment on dimensions.
Actually, all wall covering should be removed up to the framework (on the red one). Then plaster it again afterward.
When everything is exposed, I can take the opportunity to reinforce with another beam. (I would NOT saw the existing one anyway).
Thank you for the answer.
 
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Anna_H
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