Lay the oak parquet first and then build the interior wall on it or vice versa?

[ohlgren]

I will lay 5 mm foam boards as a base and 14.5 mm oak parquet on top in a large room with a raw wooden floor. In this room, I plan to build 2 walk-in closets, which means I must build a partition wall that divides the large room.

What is more sensible - to lay the parquet first and then build the partition wall on top of this? The advantage of this is that (if you don't damage the parquet, however one can avoid that) you can remove the partition walls at some point in the future if you want and then have a complete parquet floor throughout the room.

Or build the partition wall first directly on the raw wooden floor, and then lay the parquet around it?

If I lay the parquet first - is there a way to avoid damaging the parquet with the partition wall I build?
Can the partition wall become "wobbly" if it stands on parquet with a 5 mm foam board underneath?

Grateful for an answer.

 

[nimhed]

I don't think you will have any problems with a wobbly interior wall. The only issue, as you said yourself, is that you have to avoid damaging the floor.

If it's a very long interior wall, there might be a problem, because if you make the interior wall first, you attach the bottom stud to the floor, but now you will only clamp it with vertical studs. If you add some angle brackets, it should be stable enough.

 

[ohlgren]

If I build the interior wall on top of the new parquet, I want to avoid screwing into the parquet (avoid angle brackets). I just spoke with a carpenter who suggested that it's possible to secure the wall by making the vertical studs slightly too long and then hammering them in. Additionally, some kind of rubber strip can be placed between the parquet and the horizontal wall stud.

And if this is too unstable, I'll have to bite the bullet and screw the studs into the parquet.

 

[nimhed]

I mean that in addition to fastening the studs, you also attach angle brackets between the horizontal stud at the floor and the vertical ones on it. No angles screwed into the floor.

 

[Skogsbullen]

If I want to do the opposite: Divide a room into two with an interior wall, but remove the floor right where the wall will stand. How do I do that? The idea is that the wall will be more stable and that it will be possible to change the flooring in the rooms separately in the future.

 

[Gurravasa]

If I want to do the opposite: Divide a room into two with an interior wall, but remove the floor exactly where the wall is supposed to stand. How do I do that? The idea is that the wall should be more stable and that it should be possible to replace the floor in each room separately in the future.

Circular saw and cut away a strip of floor where you are going to build the wall? Just measure carefully...

 

[ohlgren]

Circular saw and cut away a strip of the floor where you want to build a wall? Just measure carefully...

Don't forget to check the thickness of the floor you want to remove, and set the saw depth to the thickness + a few mm.

 

[Mäster]

Not so easy to get to the wall with a circular saw...
Why not build the wall first, then lay the floor,
Building a wall on the parquet can be unsuitable, as it should be "floating."

 

[Gurravasa]

Not so easy to get to the wall with a circular saw...

In the case where the circular saw was involved, the wall hadn't been built yet.

I agree that there can be problems squeezing a wall onto a floating floor. Additionally, I don't believe in the functionality of removing the wall and being able to use the floor afterward. There will be a color difference and marks and will require sanding to look nice, and who has the energy for that.

 

[Mäster]

Hmm, I guess there are already four walls in the room, and the track for the new wall would be cut between 2 of them, it was the last decimeter when you reach the existing wall I was thinking about.
edit: Missed that he wanted the option to remove the wall,

 

[Pon]

If the wall doesn't become too heavy, it should be fine. If you place foam under the metal track, you might avoid creaks and bangs when the floor moves... after all, you calculate a 1.5mm movement allowance per meter of parquet width
If you then tear down the walls, you will have a discoloration that, depending on the wood type, recovers differently well, which may take a few months.
If it doesn't work, you'll face the same problem anyway if you were to tear down the walls and have gaps where you didn't lay floor = new floor

 

[ohlgren]

Hmm, I hadn't thought about the issue of the parquet moving. How is it now, does the parquet move more in the lengthwise or crosswise direction?

The weight of the wall - planned to be a 47x70 framed wall with 13 mm plasterboard on both sides. Length 5 meters with a door in the middle. Height about 2.20 m for about 2.5 meters, then a sloping roof for the remaining 2.5 meters. Possibly, there will also be OBS boards under the plasterboard.

Does the weight of the wall really matter that much?

 

[peter.holm]

If you take the studs a bit too long and do not have support directly under a truss (if you have that construction), the roof and the sheathing will bend upwards and you'll get a "buckle" in the roof.

I would staple through the bottom plate down into the floor to prevent the wall from sliding away.

 

[ohlgren]

If you make the studs a little too long and don't have support directly under a rafter (if you have that construction), the roof and the ceiling will bend upwards, causing a "dent" in the roof.

I would pin through the bottom stud down into the floor to prevent the wall from sliding away.

OK. What's the best way to "pin" with minimal impact on the parquet?

In the ceiling, I have plasterboard on 22 mm roof decking, so it should hold, I think. But sure, the best is of course to place the wall directly under a collar tie.

 

[Skogsbullen]

Hmm, I assume there are already four walls in the room, with the track for the new wall to be cut between 2 of them, it was the last decimeter when you're near the existing wall I was thinking of.
edit: Missed that he wanted the possibility to remove the wall,

Yeah, the thread creator wanted to be able to remove the wall, I was more thinking about cutting a track in my existing floor to attach a new wall. If I absolutely want to remove the wall in the future (not particularly likely) I guess I'll lay a new floor.

I agree with your point there. A circular saw might work, but it will be difficult right up against the existing walls.

Is there any type of guide rail that you can place the circular saw in to make a straight cut? It's about 330 cm in length.