Hello!

In the attic, I plan to tear down a wall according to the picture to create more space. When I started the demolition, I realized it's under a roof truss and likely acts as a brace. But several questions arose now:

- Is it really a brace? The other supports are probably in the knee wall, so why have a separate protruding support?

- Why is there insulation and plastic in the wall?

My guess is that a previous owner of the house remodeled here, but I can't come to any logical conclusion.

The house is from the 1970s
The studs are about 30x120mm and there are 2 in the wall
The small space has been a closet where only the wall I have circled is insulated.
 
  • Wall on attic being demolished, marked with red line, with exposed wood framing, red wallpaper, and visible insulation. Questions about structural support arise.
  • Attic space with partially demolished wall showing insulation and plastic inside, marked with a red outline, wooden ceiling and walls visible.
  • An exposed wall with insulation and plastic sheeting, partially demolished, showing wooden studs on an attic floor.
  • Red wooden rocking horse in an attic with boxes labeled “Bonita” and plastic containers filled with toys, next to an angled wooden wall.
I don't think it's a support beam..

But.. what does the knee wall look like? Is it original? Because it should be the support.
 
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BirgitS
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Violina Violina said:
Don't think it's a support beam..

But.. what does the knee wall look like? Is it original? Because it should be the support.
I found studs under the roof truss in the knee wall. Feels absolutely like it's original…
 
Then it's probably the one supporting the truss

The wall you want to demolish really feels like it was added later
 
Violina Violina said:
Then it is probably the one supporting the truss

The wall you want to tear down really feels like it was added afterwards
Do you have any guess why it is insulated?
 
Sambar911 Sambar911 said:
Do you have any guess as to why it's insulated?
I think someone looked at how you normally build a wall (where you have insulation) and simply did it that way..

There's really no reason to have either plastic or insulation in that wall, but there it was anyway..

Is the plastic behind the surface layer on all the walls in the "garderob"?
 
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Dowser4711
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No, just that wall. The part of the wardrobe wall facing the camera has neither insulation nor plastic.

It's a townhouse so I've checked how a neighbor has it. They have a wall in the same place that continues into the room, so I wasn't any wiser...

I also think it shouldn't be load-bearing, but you don't want to be there tearing it down when you're not sure.
 
It could have been built as a wall at your place before and insulated for sound etc. It's more reasonable than insulating a closet. Unless they had the moonshine still in it? :)
 
The studs also seem to go up to the truss. If, as you say, it's an original wall that has been shortened, the reason for placing the wall under the truss might be because you want support up top to anchor the studs to something?
 
What does the knee wall look like in the construction?

Don't you have any drawings for the house?

But as I said, I don't think you need to worry about removing the wall, but you can't be 100% sure without checking the drawings for the house/trusses.
 
Violina Violina said:
What does the attic wall look like in the construction?

Do you have any drawings for the house?

But as I said, I don't think you need to be worried about removing the wall, but one can't be 100% sure without checking the drawings for the house/trusses.
Hello again and thank you for the responses!

I have now received the drawings from the municipality.
According to the drawing, there was no wall there previously, so that feels good.

Now to another question. There will be a pool table with legs that exert a point load of 130kg each. According to the technical description, it is 48x220s underarm that is likely supported from below according to the floor plan. Do I need to make a precise calculation, or can I assume the underarm can handle those point loads? Is there a risk of bending?
 
  • Floor plan sketch labeled "Vindsplan" with marked areas, indicating no previous walls as per municipal drawings.
  • Technical description document detailing building specifications, including material types and construction details, stamped by Umeå building committee.
  • Floor plan showing room layout including bedroom, bathroom, sauna, and living room, marked with measurements in square meters.
I would say that as long as you place the pool table so that it stands perpendicular to the rafters with the long side (i.e., along the ridge), there's probably no risk of any significant sagging..

But it will be quite a hassle to get the table up there 😅
 
Violina Violina said:
Skulle säga att så länge du placerar biljardbordet så det står vinkelrätt mot takstolarna med långsidan (alltså jäms med nocken) så är det nog ingen risk för nån direkt nedböjning..

Men kommer ju vara rätt jobbigt att få upp bordet där
Violina Violina said:
Skulle säga att så länge du placerar biljardbordet så det står vinkelrätt mot takstolarna med långsidan (alltså jäms med nocken) så är det nog ingen risk för nån direkt nedböjning..

Men kommer ju vara rätt jobbigt att få upp bordet där
Violina Violina said:
Skulle säga att så länge du placerar biljardbordet så det står vinkelrätt mot takstolarna med långsidan (alltså jäms med nocken) så är det nog ingen risk för nån direkt nedböjning..

Men kommer ju vara rätt jobbigt att få upp bordet där 😅
Menar du att benen på bordet blir närmare de bärande väggarna då?
Den kommer bara få plats om jag ställer den parallellt med takstolarna…

Det har du rätt i! Jag har planerat att lyfta upp den med kranbil och genom ett fönster. Många hinder innan jag är i mål :)
 
No, but if it stands perpendicular to the rafters, you have a chance that more uderramar help carry the load.
 
In this case, the legs of the table will be placed between the underframes, which should distribute the load better. Would it be necessary to make a, for example, 220 bracket that I attach between the underframes where the legs are, or fix a 22mm particle board to support the table and distribute the load?
 
  • Table plan diagram showing placement of legs between underframes, with measurements, main walls, and a billiard table base. Suggestions include a 22mm chipboard.
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