1,726 views ·
18 replies
2k views
18 replies
Is this a common Swedish wall construction in a wooden frame house?
Page 1 of 2
Är detta en vanlig svensk väggkonstruktion i ett träregelhus? Är den säker och rekommenderad av svenskar?
Is this a popular Swedish wall cross-section in a timber-frame house? Is it safe and recommended by Swedes?
Does this make sense in Poland, in the Lubusz Voivodeship?
- Invändig beklädnad – t.ex. gipsplatta 12,5 mm
- Installationsskikt 45 mm – reglar 45×45 mm, fyllda med mineralull (akustik, minskning av köldbryggor)
- OSB eller konstruktionsplywood 12 mm – stabilisering av konstruktionen, lufttäthet (efter tejpning av skarvar)
- Ångspärr – noggrant tätad, manschetter vid installationer
- Bärande regelstomme 45×145 mm – reglar c/c 600 mm, fyllda med mineralull
- Bitumenskiva ~12 mm (softboard) – vindtät, akustisk, diffusionsöppen skiva
- Extra skikt 45 mm – reglar 45×45 mm, utrymme fyllt med mineralull (tilläggsisolering)
- Vindskyddsmembran – med överlapp och tätningstejp
- Spikläkt/kontrareglar 20–30 mm – ventilerad luftspalt (intag vid sockel, utgång vid takfot)
- Träfasad – ohyvlad panel målad med täckande färg
Is this a popular Swedish wall cross-section in a timber-frame house? Is it safe and recommended by Swedes?
- Interior finish – e.g. gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm
- Installation battens 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, filled with mineral wool (acoustics, reduction of thermal bridges)
- OSB or structural plywood 12 mm – structural stiffening, airtightness (after taping of joints)
- Vapour barrier – tightly glued, with sleeves at service penetrations
- Load-bearing structure 45×145 mm – studs at 600 mm spacing, filled with mineral wool
- Bitumen board ~12 mm (softboard) – windproof, acoustic, diffusion-open layer
- Additional battens 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, cavity filled with mineral wool (extra insulation)
- Wind barrier membrane – with overlaps and sealing tapes
- Counter-battens 20–30 mm – ventilated cavity (air inlet at plinth, outlet at eaves)
- Wooden façade – rough-sawn board painted with opaque paint
Does this make sense in Poland, in the Lubusz Voivodeship?
Nja, jag skulle säga att OSB kommer direkt bakom gipsskivan och inte innanför installationsskiktet. Det du kallar bitumenskiva har använts som yttre vindtätt skikt (asfaboard) och har legat ytterst innan glespanel/spikläkt för fasadpanelen.Pat Kot said:
Är detta en vanlig svensk väggkonstruktion i ett träregelhus? Är den säker och rekommenderad av svenskar?
- Invändig beklädnad – t.ex. gipsplatta 12,5 mm
- Installationsskikt 45 mm – reglar 45×45 mm, fyllda med mineralull (akustik, minskning av köldbryggor)
- OSB eller konstruktionsplywood 12 mm – stabilisering av konstruktionen, lufttäthet (efter tejpning av skarvar)
- Ångspärr – noggrant tätad, manschetter vid installationer
- Bärande regelstomme 45×145 mm – reglar c/c 600 mm, fyllda med mineralull
- Bitumenskiva ~12 mm (softboard) – vindtät, akustisk, diffusionsöppen skiva
- Extra skikt 45 mm – reglar 45×45 mm, utrymme fyllt med mineralull (tilläggsisolering)
- Vindskyddsmembran – med överlapp och tätningstejp
- Spikläkt/kontrareglar 20–30 mm – ventilerad luftspalt (intag vid sockel, utgång vid takfot)
- Träfasad – ohyvlad panel målad med täckande färg
Is this a popular Swedish wall cross-section in a timber-frame house? Is it safe and recommended by Swedes?
- Interior finish – e.g. gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm
- Installation battens 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, filled with mineral wool (acoustics, reduction of thermal bridges)
- OSB or structural plywood 12 mm – structural stiffening, airtightness (after taping of joints)
- Vapour barrier – tightly glued, with sleeves at service penetrations
- Load-bearing structure 45×145 mm – studs at 600 mm spacing, filled with mineral wool
- Bitumen board ~12 mm (softboard) – windproof, acoustic, diffusion-open layer
- Additional battens 45 mm – studs 45×45 mm, cavity filled with mineral wool (extra insulation)
- Wind barrier membrane – with overlaps and sealing tapes
- Counter-battens 20–30 mm – ventilated cavity (air inlet at plinth, outlet at eaves)
- Wooden façade – rough-sawn board painted with opaque paint
Does this make sense in Poland, in the Lubusz Voivodeship?
Är det ett nytt hus som ska byggas eller är det ett äldre hus som har den här uppbyggnaden?
New house. Inner boards on the construction for stiffening.T Testarn said:Well, I would say that OSB comes directly behind the gypsum board and not inside the installation layer. What you call bitumen board has been used as an outer windproof layer (asfaboard) and has been on the outside before the slatted panel/nailing battens for the façade panel.
Is it a new house that is to be built or is it an older house that has this construction?
Magnus E K
Homeowner
· Östergötland
· 4 037 posts
Magnus E K
Homeowner
- Östergötland
- 4,037 posts
What is the point of "additional insulation" when building new? If thicker insulation is desired, why not just use thicker studs (like 190 instead of 145) instead of adding an extra layer? (Or is it for extra soundproofing?)
Installation layer on the inside where electricity is drawn..Magnus E K said:
T Testarn said:
T ToreJ01 said:
Magnus E K said:
In Poland, they say you have to place OSB on the inside as a sheathing to stiffen the whole construction - it's not just about being able to hang heavy items on the wall. In Canada, they place OSB on the outside of the studs, but then the wall becomes diffusion-tight, and that's why I'm looking for a Swedish solution. Using 45x195 mm studs and filling with mineral wool instead of extra external insulation is reasonable.T Testarn said:
I don't think it's a requirement to place OSB on the inside of walls in Sweden; stability can be achieved in any way, and I guess gypsum boards are sufficient for that, but diagonal braces and noggings could probably replace them as well.
My suggestion to move the OSB board into the construction wasn't just a way of saying it's about making it easier to hang things on the walls, but that's a bonus. Then I'm wondering about what you write regarding the wall becoming diffusion-tight due to OSB; doesn't that mean you'd want it as close to the warm side as possible to avoid condensation on the board...?
A "normal" wall in Sweden has the board material on the surface and not inside the wall. You could check this page to see how it's recommended by the industry organization Svenskt trä:
https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/vaggar/
Look at Principles solution and you'll see that they indicate board material on the inside and not between the studs.
Moreover, I think it's good that you're trying to find out the standards and principles that apply here and not continue with what's required in other countries. 👍
My suggestion to move the OSB board into the construction wasn't just a way of saying it's about making it easier to hang things on the walls, but that's a bonus. Then I'm wondering about what you write regarding the wall becoming diffusion-tight due to OSB; doesn't that mean you'd want it as close to the warm side as possible to avoid condensation on the board...?
A "normal" wall in Sweden has the board material on the surface and not inside the wall. You could check this page to see how it's recommended by the industry organization Svenskt trä:
https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktionsexempel/vaggar/
Look at Principles solution and you'll see that they indicate board material on the inside and not between the studs.
Moreover, I think it's good that you're trying to find out the standards and principles that apply here and not continue with what's required in other countries. 👍
Member
· Blekinge
· 11 702 posts
If he is going to build in Poland, it's probably good to follow local recommendations unless something else is significantly better. Why should he follow Swedish norms?T Testarn said:
Should Yankees and Polynesians also follow Swedish norms?
T Testarn said:I don't think it's a requirement to install OSB on the inside of walls in Sweden. Stability can be achieved in any way, and I guess gypsum boards suffice for that, but diagonal braces and noggins can probably replace them as well.
My suggestion to move the OSB board inside the construction was not just about making it easier to hang things on the walls, but that's a bonus. Then I wonder about what you write about the wall becoming vapor-tight with OSB; doesn't that mean you want it as close to the warm side as possible to avoid condensation on the board...?
A "normal" wall in Sweden has the sheet material on the surface, not inside the wall. You could look at this page to see how it's recommended from the industry organization Svenskt trä:
[link]
Look at Principle Solution so you see that they indicate sheet material on the inside and not between studs.
By the way, I think it's good that you are trying to find out what standards and principles apply here and not just go by what's required in other countries. 👍
In Poland, on various Facebook groups, it is said that Scandinavian wall structures are much better than Canadian/American ones. They criticize constructions where you have, for example, a wooden facade, air gap, wind barrier, facade insulation, OSB board, 45x145 stud frame with 14.5 cm of mineral wool in the middle, vapor barrier, gypsum board (and possibly an installation layer with 5 cm extra mineral wool inside the gypsum). It's said that such a house will rot and mold because the OSB board is not vapor open. I no longer know who to listen to – should I look for a Swedish tried-and-tested wall structure or is the typical Canadian solution also correct? Is such a construction also questioned in your country? The climate in Poland is quite similar to that in southern Sweden.T Thomas_Blekinge said: